To restore...or not to restore...

[ericrn]

I could use some advice on restoration. I just bought my 1969 V191 this summer and am debating on restoring it or just clear coating it. It has the original metal-flake paint and as you can see by the pictures it has lost it's shine. It has lost some color too but not too bad. Does anyone still do the old fashion metal flake? This boat is one of a kind and is all original so I don't want to screw this up!
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff320/ericrn/100_1380.jpg
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff320/ericrn/100_1379.jpg

[smallblockford]

that is gelcoat not paint, try to aqua buff and wet sand before painting ever. gel is way more durable than paint.

good lookin boat

[merc245]

Do all you can to save the orignal metalflake gel coat. 1st it way cooler. And 2nd its cost prohibited to shoot any thing close to the orignal quality
I put a 15'' to 18'' scratch that was 1/4'' into the fiberglass on the bottom of my blue metalflake sportfire.(see pic.) And guess what the cost was to repair was............................................... .................................$2400 bucks. The work was flawless, But thank goodness for insurance.And that was 15 yrs ago pricing

http://checkmate-boats.com/photopost/data/500/medium/img002.jpg

P.S. Never put in at spring until all the floating debrie is long gone. :pissed:

[Big Red]

polish and ride

[Magnum Thunder]

Do not paint or alter the original gelcoat!!!!!!! Purchase 1000 and 1500 wet or dry sand paper. Purchase a rubber sanding block. Cut the 1000 grit paper to fit in the sanding block and begin to wet-sand the hull keeping the paper very wet. Do not miss any areas. You will not hurt the gelcoat. Then go around the hull with the 1500 paper.

You are now ready to compound the hull. This requires a powered buffing wheel with variable speed. RThis needs to be done out of the sun. I bought a Milwaukee on e-bay for 125.00 brand new with a 8" buffing bonnet. I use Meguiars Products. You need #49 Oxidation Remover. Start by compounding the hull with #49 being careful not to stay in any one area too long and not missing anything. You will find most light scratches will come out fairly easy. You will probably go through several bonnets as they load up with compound fast.

With all the #49 compound buffed off, the hull should look glossy and shiny and like new. you are now ready for Carnuba wax. Use the buffer to wheel in the liquid Carnuba wax. Let the wax haze over then, final buff with the wheel. Stand back and admire your work. You're ready to look good and blast! I've had people ask if I Awlgripped my hull because of the gloss but, it's the original gelcoat.:cheers

[Boston Predictor]

If you can feel the flakes through the clear then dont wet sand and buff. You will need to spray a new coat of clear on it. Im not sure on the prep work for that but lots of guys here have re cleared thier metalflake and now it looks like new. If your finish is still smooth, and most of the clearcoat is there then I would definitely try buffing. You could fill in thoes scratches with some touch up paint or im sure they even sell a marine grade scratch repair kit. Please dont paint this boat it would ruin it

[Magnum Thunder]

From what I'm told...you still wet-sand to smooth the hull out. Then, the clear is applied. It you don't, the finish will look like the rockies. The finish on this boat doesn't appear to be in a "apply clear coat state":shakehead:

[ericrn]

The deck and the rear of the boat are not smooth and you can feel the metal flake in this area so I'm afraid to sand. I was never planning to re-paint the boat, I was hoping to put on a new layer of gelcoat. The only problem is in those areas some of the color is faded out.
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff320/ericrn/100_1375.jpg

[Mark]

Definitely restorable! It does not look too far gone to me at all. Do a search here on Aqua Buff and get the basic low down on how to do it. I had one area on the rear deck of my Starliner that had no flake left at all and I still brought back a shine. No one has ever even noticed the difference. Save another Mate!
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a183/iammarcuse/buff001.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a183/iammarcuse/buff005.jpg

[175checkmate]

Great looking boat.

[ericrn]

This is some great advice but does anybody know of a quality shop that does this kind of work? I consider myself handy and have done some restoration on old jeeps but I really don't want to screw this up. I'm on the border of Wisconsin and Minnesota but would be willing to trailer it to get the job done right.
thanks fellas!

[Mark]

I am sure there will be a shop in your area that can clear it for you...but I am also sure it will cost you more than the boat is probably worth.
You really can't screw up an Aqua-buff job. For $20-30 give it a try and even without wetsandiing I think you will be happy with the results. The key is to use the right buffer and follow the instructions. It must be a rotary buffer that turns over 2500 RPM.

[Blizz]

If all else fails and you want to spend the money John Spaeth (Hydrostream Canada)in Brechin can probably shoot the boat just like the original factory. If you go the route if you do alot of the grunt (prep) work it'll save you a tonne of money. He is one of the best around.

[Boston Predictor]

I could be wrong, But From what I understand if you can feel the flake through the clearcoat, you should'nt wetsand or buff. YOu have to respray clear.

Eric, spraying clear coat isnt too hard and as Mark mentioned if you take it somewhere thay will jack you up. I would do it myself, and practice on some plywood or something first.

[ericrn]

Damn now I'm really confused! I think I could get away with buffing the hull of the boat but the back and the deck feel rough to the touch. The interior still has shine as well so I could buff that too. I think I need to shoot clear on the two trouble areas. I will have to sleep on it, I have two feet of snow on the ground so I have a little time! Thanks again, you guys are great!

[Blizz]

If the finish is rough to the touch do NOT sand it as you will ruin the flake you'll end up with a silverish spot.