hatch lift

[overboard]

I own a 96 253 convincer. I am having trouble with my engine hatch lift, I am getting 12 volts to the unit, but it still won't open and close reliably, can this be rebuilt or do I have to get a new one? It is a acculift MQ347. I can't seem to find the co. on the net. I hope Kip or Mike can help me out.

[overboard]

I own a 96 253 convincer. I am having trouble with my engine hatch lift, I am getting 12 volts to the unit, but it still won't open and close reliably, can this be rebuilt or do I have to get a new one? It is a acculift MQ347. I can't seem to find the co. on the net. I hope Kip or Mike can help me out.

[Eriktheviking]

Try C P Performance online.I think IMCO makes a nice one.Mine is going too. http://checkmate-boats.com/6/ws/,s,8626072361/Graemlins/irked.gif

[JW]

I always worried about the unit on my Persuader. It never gave me trouble, but I wondered how I'd get the hatch up if the motor went bad in the down position. Sure was fun to show off a powered hatch to the 'generic' boat owners out there http://checkmate-boats.com/6/ws/,s,8626072361/Graemlins/surf.gif

[overboard]

I have figured a way to open the hatch if it won't open. Take out the vent on the outside of the hull, stick a broom handle or something strong in the hole and knock the clip off and then push the pin out of the ram at the hatch. I HAVEN'T HAD TO DO THIS YET! I hope I can fix it before it comes to that.

[overboard]

Up date on hatch trouble.

I have discovered that the ram is o.k. I had my son operate it, and I used a volt meter at the motor, when it stopped working I had no voltage, when it started working again I showed voltage. Sometimes it would work real slow, when this happens I was only showing 7 or 8 volts, what does everyone think?
I pulled the switch and breaker to look at it, but wow! it must have 10 wires hooked to it, so I think I will try to get a new switch and breaker before I pull all the wires off this one.
The switch is a toggle type, it has the number of 9448 on it, Hope Kip or Mike can help.

[BOB'S 283]

i had a similar problem with my 283 . it turned out to be a waterproof fuse holder that was located by the battery . i replaced it with an identical one , but still have to wiggle it once in a while

[Dave's ZT260]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by overboard:
I have figured a way to open the hatch if it won't open. Take out the vent on the outside of the hull, stick a broom handle or something strong in the hole and knock the clip off and then push the pin out of the ram at the hatch. I HAVEN'T HAD TO DO THIS YET! I hope I can fix it before it comes to that. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I can vouch for this, I had to do it on my old persuader. Works like a charm, just hope you don't have to do it on the water. http://checkmate-boats.com/6/ws/,s,8626072361/Graemlins/biggthumpup.gif

[overboard]

I fixed the hatch lift. Had Mike from checkmate send me a new switch, although he said it was rare that a switch would go bad, and problem solved.

[vinny p.]

The ground wire on my hatch motor broke off once. I had a hell of time getting it opened without destroying anything. Now I took an old Morse cable and attached it to the pin on the hatch. I hung on the cable on the underside of the hatch running to the edge. All I have to do is lift the hatch enough by hand to get a finger or 2 on the cable and give it a yank. The pin comes right out real easy.

[overboard]

up date on my last post.

problem not solved. I was winterizing the boat yesterday, and when I went to close the hatch It wouldn't close. I had the wife operate the switch and I was only getting 5.5 volts, I dont know whats going on. I took the old switch to the electricion at work, he took the old switch apart and all the contacts were (carbond up.) You could scrape it off with your finger. He also took the motor apart and said all the brushes looked great. He tested the motor and said it worked fine, so I am at a lose.
Now this morning I tried it and it is working fine. I need help, if I can't get this fixed this fall it will drive me nutts by next spring!

[overboard]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by vinny p.:
The ground wire on my hatch motor broke off once. I had a hell of time getting it opened without destroying anything. Now I took an old Morse cable and attached it to the pin on the hatch. I hung on the cable on the underside of the hatch running to the edge. All I have to do is lift the hatch enough by hand to get a finger or 2 on the cable and give it a yank. The pin comes right out real easy. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

How about a pic of your pin removel set up?

[DLRVelocity1]

My Velocity has (2) relays located on the engine bulkhead. Possible that you Checkmate owners are suffering from weak relays? Changed mine after I pulled the ram apart, inspected, cleaned and lubed it and haven't had a problem for more than a year now. Would explain the voltage drop you guys describe. Hope this helps.
DLRVelocity1

[mkhammer]

Possible you are suffering from not owning a checkmate.

[BOB'S 283]

did you check the inline fuse holder, while someone else works the switch

[over board]

Where is it located

[BOB'S 283]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by over board:
Where is it located <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>mine is about 8 - 10 inches from the battery switch / batteries . plug in, automotive style . the waterproof seal actually works against a tight connection . has been a pain for years . but at least i know what to do when the hatch don't work

[BOB'S 283]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by mkhammer:
Possible you are suffering from not owning a checkmate. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>i wouldn't beat the guy up on his first post . he might be towin one of us in someday http://www.checkmate-boats.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif

[Dave's ZT260]

I recently bypassed all of the inline fuses near the battery box. (I ran new wires rather than try to seal the original ones up) They were always causing problems, (blown fuses or corrosion) and were located in a bad spot for water to get at them. I installed inline fuses at the devices that needed them in better locations and it worked out great.

After this year, I don't give anyone a hard time over a boat that runs, I've been towed back twice aready. (2 blown outdrives)

[mkhammer]

First of all all electro hydraulic hatch lifts are made by after market companies. and all can fail sooner or later, wiring that is exposed to elements can corrode. just because a few guys are having some problems with thier lifts any boat made can experiance this problem. So far I havn't had a problem with mine yet. So I wouldn't say us checkmate owner are suffering from anything. I could have bought any boat I wanted I bought a checkmate and I proud to own it.

[Dave's ZT260]

You’re correct, all hatch lifts are made third party. So are most of the electronic products in almost every boat. Therefore it's an industry wide problem, not just checkmates. I've never had problems with my lifts, but my ZT is only a year old.

If you want to eliminate your hatch lift problems you could go with the hydraulic hatch lift Dana Marine makes. It's not cheap, but very cool. It uses a trim pump and lifts the hatch fast. (this thing could throw a fat lady off your sun deck) My old lifts took 30 seconds or so. I just ordered this new lift from Trick Marine.

http://www.moorhuscomputers.com/lift.jpg
http://www.moorhuscomputers.com/lift1.jpg

Here a link to a video of it in action. Click on power hinge video

http://www.danamarineproducts.com/videos.cfm?CFID=62338&CFTOKEN=78762103

[mkhammer]

cool stuff dana marine is about 30 min from where I live there is another company called eddie marine they make the same hardware dana does its a little cheaper. my convincor is 6 years old and I have no problems with my lift yet. but if I do I will replace it with `one from eddie marine. you can check out thier new electric hatch actuators and billet hydraulic power hinges at WWW.EDDIEMARINE.COM (http://WWW.EDDIEMARINE.COM). I have thier billet optima battery boxs, 24" billet trim tabs & pumps, and other trick stuff on my boat I bought from them.

[cooperider]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Dave's ZT260:
You’re correct, all hatch lifts are made third party. So are most of the electronic products in almost every boat. Therefore it's an industry wide problem, not just checkmates. I've never had problems with my lifts, but my ZT is only a year old.

If you want to eliminate your hatch lift problems you could go with the hydraulic hatch lift Dana Marine makes. It's not cheap, but very cool. It uses a trim pump and lifts the hatch fast. (this thing could throw a fat lady off your sun deck) My old lifts took 30 seconds or so. I just ordered this new lift from Trick Marine.[Quote]

Ah..this would be where get the "ejection sun deck" You see one of your freinds coming and you press the switch and.....

[Chris E]

Reminds me of a warrnaty issue i had with a 260 Sea Ray. They installed the hatch lift so that it still had a little travel in it when it was full down. Customer held switch a little too long and pulled the lift out of the floor. Customer went boating without realizing what happened. The hatch lift bounced around until it shredded the serpentine belt and the customer seized the engine. Cost Sea Ray a new 454 Mag and repairs to the boat - $17,000 cdn. by the time we were done.