'85 Predictor floor coming out!

[85Predictor]

Will start posting pics tomorrow. I have started pulling the plywood up starting just behind the front seats. The floor does not look like it ever had fiberglass on it. Is that possible? http://www.checkmate-boats.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_confused.gifAlso, if water soaks through the floor, is there a way out or is it trapped? I have not seen a drain hole from the sub-floor to the sump pump. If it has no way out, then that would explain alot! The foam is soaked in the main floor and in one of the floatation boxes. There was enough water in there to support at least one goldfish!
http://checkmate-boats.com/graemlins/biggthumpup.gif

Later.....

[85Predictor]

Well,
Let the fun begin!
Project boat: '85 Predictor w/ '87 Merc 115hp
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v362/checkmate04/FloorRepair004.jpg

Piece of the old floor. No evidence of fiberglass??
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v362/checkmate04/FloorRepair001.jpg
Forward View

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v362/checkmate04/FloorRepair002.jpg
Rear View
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v362/checkmate04/FloorRepair003.jpg

Is there any risk leaving the motor on the boat while ripping the floor out?? I do not know if the floor,floatation boxes and stringer help to strengthen the transom. I need to know this before I work my way any further back.
Thanks!

[85Predictor]

Forward View

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v362/checkmate04/FloorRepair002.jpg

[wetvette]

that looks like a pain in the a**!
i wish you luck.

[85Predictor]

It is and thanks for the support!

A labor of Love??
http://www.checkmate-boats.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_redface.gif

[Mark]

Once the water is in there is no way out. It usually is a result of the boat sitting outside uncovered year after year. It slowly seeps in any screw holes and through the staples holding the floor to the stringers. Then it simply rots from the inside out. In the 80's Mate glassed only the topside and only resincoated the underside. I redid one in the fall and glassed both sides and then glassed it to the new stringers. No staples, no screws - completely air and water tight.

[175checkmate]

Been there done that, had the itch to prove it. Have fun and take your time. It will be better than new when your done.

[85Predictor]

Mark,
Do you know if it is safe to keep the motor on the transom while re-doing the floor??? I left a message at Checkmate today. Do I sound anxious?? http://checkmate-boats.com/graemlins/bounce.gif
At this point I do not think the transom is bad. I have heard that the transom is installed first. If that is true, then I should be able to leave the motor on and remove the floor and all of the floatation boxes filled with water/foam, right?
Thanks

[85Predictor]

Slow progress!!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v362/checkmate04/4_21_05003.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v362/checkmate04/4_21_05001.jpg

[illMATTic]

thats as yucky looking as mine was. mine being a 78 didnt have the floatation boxes.

yours looks a bit deeper than mine. see how my floor is only 28" wide from where it meets the hull. yours looks much wider.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/DSC01121.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v362/checkmate04/4_21_05003.jpg

[illMATTic]

also i noticed my seat mounts are not nearly as tall as yours.

[Mark]

85
Even if you leave the motor on, you should still make sure the hull is sitting level before you install stringers. Take a straight edge and make sure your trailer isn't creating a hook in it.(especially if it is sitting on rollers). You could block up under the transom and let it carry the weight if it is.

[85Predictor]

Mark,
Not sure where the straight edge should be set. The one I have is only 2 ft long.
Worked some more today on the floor. After removing the foam by the hose for the bilge pump, I noticed the clamp was a bit loose on the bulkhead side. You don't suppose? If this fitting developes a leak, it will dump water directly into the top of the floatation box! From there it will find its' way to the the main sub-floor. Something to think about!

[Mark]

On my other Mate I was getting water in the floatation box from the transom boot. The boat was floating heavy on the starboard side. The water goes into the foam and has no way to get out. I dug out the foam that was wet and I drilled a 1.5" drain hole to the bilge side and glassed it over (that's why the hole is so big) to protect the wood. By the looks of your pictures that boat sat outside in the rain. Water will always seek the lowest level. I'm a maniac with the sealants on my boats. Every screw hole in your floor needs to be sealed. As far as the straightedge just find something around the house that is 4' long and perfectly straight. I use a peice of aluminum off an old shower stall. Run it from your transom back in several places along the bottom to make sure it is flat. It looked like your boat was sitting on rollers. They can push up your hull in those spots creating a hook and when you glass in the stringers and floor it might stay that way. That's why I said try to block it up flat. Even taking the weight off the rollers by blocking the transom might do the trick. But if everything is flat underneath now, then don't worry about it.

[85Predictor]

Mark,
Thanks for all of the great info!
The trailer has rollers down the middle and bunks left and right on the back. I will post some pictures of the hull/trailer. Sure want to get this done correctly the first time!!

[85Predictor]

http://www.checkmate-boats.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_confused.gif

What's the best tool for cutting the last bit of flooring out?? I have cut as much as I feel comfortable with using a jigsaw!

I have a Dremel with a cutting wheel but that sure seems a bit anemic for this!!
http://checkmate-boats.com/graemlins/lol.gif

[jrs1958]

I used a disc sander with 40 grit sanding discs to cut through the fiberglass at the edges of the floor. Once I sanded through the glass the rest of the floor just pulled right out.

1984 Predictor 1968 Mercury 1250SS I-6 125 HP

[illMATTic]

i used my cordles skill saw. i got a very straight line this way. i then used a hammer and chisel to free the rest from the hull.

[85Predictor]

http://www.checkmate-boats.com/graemlins/thumb.gif
I am just about ready to go shopping for foam; plywood and resin. What thickness ply for the floor; seat base; stringers??

How about resin? Is there another brand besides West System which might be easier on the wallet and work as well??

Thanks!!

[175checkmate]

Some will say that you need to use marine grade plywood. Not really needed as you will have to seal all the wood with resin anyway. Seals out the water good. I did not reinstall the foam on my boat. There was not a lot there to begine with. Unless you have real deep pockets I would stay away from the west system stuff.
I used polyester resin. The same stuff you can get at home depot or lowes.I think I am on gallon #27, it seems like I sanded most of it off. lol. I bought most of the fiber glass there also as they have the cloth and the mat.
I went back with 3/4 inch plywood for the transom,floor,string and will use the same on the stringer. Yea its a bit heaver than needed but I did not want to do this project again.

[85Predictor]

http://www.checkmate-boats.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif
Thanks, sounds like that's the way I will go also.
I figure if I take care of the boat (Cover it) the materials you mentioned above should last a very long time.

[bdusted440]

Here is a good site for you http://www.fibreglast.com/
alsohttp://www.minicraft.com/

[Derrick]

Heres where i got my foam and epoxy i used West Systems it was easy to work with and and did a great job be sure to get the pumps it makes measuring a lot easier.I just finshed my floor and floatation box in my Inticer and Iam now installing new steering and motor.

US Composites
http://www.shopmaninc.com/index.html

[85Predictor]

http://www.checkmate-boats.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif
Thanks for all of the info/links!
Below are the latest pictures. I am done ripping the old stuff out!! Need to do some shopping next.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v362/checkmate04/5-29-05-back.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v362/checkmate04/5-29-05-front.jpg

[Mark]

Stringers in Mates are 3/4" ply. The floor is 1/2". You don't need any more weight than necessary. One layer of mat on each side of the floor and it will be as stong as steel and completely waterproof. Two layers on the stringers. Mat is easier to work with than cloth and a lot heavier. Invest in a glass roller though. You won't regret it. Epoxy is very expensive. The rest of the boat is polyester resin anyway.

[85Predictor]

Mark,
Do you mean to completly cover both sides with resin and mat? I had planned to cover both sides and ends with resin then use mat/cloth to join the new floor to the hull. But, if that is not right then I will change my plans. The floor area will only be 2' X 7.5'

Thanks!

[175checkmate]

Cover both sides with resin then when you lay down the floor hit the edge with a layer of matt. Make sure you get all the air out of the matt for a better bond.
When I layed down my floor I also used a small section of matt to bond the part where both sections meet. Once it had flashed I ground down the top part untill it was flush then bonded the seam with glass. I feel sorry for the person that has to take it apart in another 20 years. lol

[Mark]

The reason these floors rot in the first place is they are only resin-coated on the underside. Think of it this way, by the time you are done you'll have invested days of labor, why not spend an extra $50 and do it right. This is what I would do: Glass in stringer with two layers of mat. Leave the top edge bare for now. Cut a cardboard template for the floor or stringers if you need to. The stringers have to follow the curve of the hull and are not likely perfectly flat on the bottom edge. Using a straight edge make sure that your floor will come into contact with the edge all around. Glass both sides of floor using 6 oz mat and merely wet out the edges for now. Wet out two 1" strips of mat along the hull edge and on top of stringers(left bare earlier). Carefully place floor in place and weight it down so that the strips come into contact all around. Later glass seams with two 3-4" stips of mat. You now have a super stronger water-tight floor with no staples or screws to compromise the structure.

[85Predictor]

http://www.checkmate-boats.com/graemlins/thumb.gif
On vacation and getting ready to put the floor in! Was side-tracked working on a truck engine. As you can see, I do not always work. I do find time to relax. By the way, the pager on the left is not on!!
Will post pictures as I put the floor back together.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v362/checkmate04/pager2.jpg

[Boston Predictor]

cool
looking good can't wat to see this baby back in action!
whats up with the pager? i didnt even know they still made em http://www.checkmate-boats.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif

[85Predictor]

http://checkmate-boats.com/graemlins/lol.gif
Well where I live, the mountains and lack of towers does not make great cell phone reception!
I end up using both.

[illMATTic]

man i love that shine

[85Predictor]

http://www.checkmate-boats.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif
Well,
Here are some updated pics.
Not done yet but getting there!
Sorry to say it will not see water this year.

I decided to use insulating rigid foam for under the floor. Did not want to pay the price for the 2-part foam but also did not want to leave it empty.

The new center beam is cedar 4"X4". A friend of mine has a portable sawmill and made this for me.

All comments are welcome!
Great site!
Thanks!


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v362/checkmate04/PredictorHull001.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v362/checkmate04/8_10_05-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v362/checkmate04/8_10_05-2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v362/checkmate04/8_10_05-3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v362/checkmate04/8_10_05-4.jpg

[175checkmate]

Looks good, a 4x4 is a bit much for a center stringer. But should be strong. Did you rember to cut holes in the cross stringers so water could pass through.
Remember to seal all wood with resin to keep the water out.

[85Predictor]

I will post a thread concerning drain holes for the sub-floor. Some people try to seal the sub-floor I guess to prevent water from entering through the drain hole. Others say to put in drain holes including Mike at Checkmate. I could not find evidence of a drain hole when I pulled the old floor out. I will have the Fall and Winter to ponder this issue.

Thanks!!

[Mark]

When I did my Starliner I left the foam out. I could have put it back in since I removed it intact. I decided if water ever got in again this way I could hear it sloshing when on my trailer instead of being absorbed by the foam. I built three water tight compartments running down length of hull. If water ever gets in I could drill in from bilge and drain it. Plus since everything is encased in fiberglass there is nothing to rot. I don't actually think it will happen however since there are no mechanical perforations thru the floor. Honestly, I don't ever want to do that job again so I took the time to make sure it was bulletproof.

[imaboaterg]

88 checkmate predictor here! Bone white w grey interior checkmate stripe down side w grey checkmate emblem ,turn key, mint,closed bow, sharp and sleek yamaha 115 w 23 pitch stainless, low low 70's and not for sale.4 foot chop, nothing in the water but the prop. (Watch out for the cross chop though it can be hard on the back and jewels). Aptly named Sea ya. New here and need to fill in pict still. Hard work and plenty of hours but enjoy it cause when your done youre going to look back and think it was all worth it. Cant wait to see it posted and gook luck to you! May the store gods sense your coming and post a sale before you get to their door.


Im a Boater........ G

[wickedrister]

http://www.checkmate-boats.com/graemlins/thumb.gif Your Predictor is lookig good! Lots of hard work but it will all be worth it in the end. I left the foam out of my boat when I did the floor and stringer last winter. I wanted water to run on out if any got under the floor. The thing I didn't expect was sound of the water slapping the hull. It's really loud on choppy days at low speed. That's OK just another reason to speed up http://www.checkmate-boats.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_cool.gif

[85Predictor]

After pricing a few supplies, I have decided to get an estimate to have the new floor glassed in. I will need to finish fabricating the rest of the plywood before the estimate is done. One of my options will be a non-skid surface instead of a carpet. Any thoughts on that one??? It would dry out alot faster!!

[Boston Predictor]

Its up to you. I would stay with the carpet however.
I would glass it myself If I were you. its not hard at all.
If you need any help let me know I have alot of experiance with glass.:thumb:

[85Predictor]

More price checks!!
Can anyone give me a ballpark figure on how many gallons of resin (Polyester right?) will be needed to put this floor back in?

Home Depot is about $31.00/gallon
West Marine is $24.00/gallon (Boater's Resin on sale)

I plan to coat all surfaces(new ply) before installation

Thanks!!

[TRsCheckmate]

I think the floor in my TRV is roughly the same size. I planned on about four gallons. So far, I have used two gallons and have just opened my third. All that I have left is to put a final coat on the top side and then put down a layer of glass. I did buy Styrene to thin the resin that I coated the floor and stringers with before glueing them into the boat. If it helps check out US composites(http://www.shopmaninc.com/index.html[/URL]) and [URL="http://www.fibreglast.com"]www.fibreglast.com (http://www.shopmanic.com) They are two good reasonably priced places.

Also, the same resin sold at Home Depot is 2 to 3 dollars cheaper at Meijer and Wal-mart.

-TR

[illMATTic]

wow 4 gallons seems a bit much. i have only my own repair to judge with but..............

[85Predictor]

Picked up 3 gal of resin at Home Depot today along with cloth.
Will start posting pics again as I proceed forward.

Thanks to all for the help!!
Again, Great Board!!