View Full Version : 1974 TRV-16 transom repair
muskie
12-21-2005, 09:49 PM
i was installing some new stainless steel bolts for the 90 HP merc on the checkmate late last season, and i noticed that the wood in the transom where the bolt was goin through was really spungy. and i am not sure if the transom need replacing or not. any good ideas on how to check? and also if it needs to be repaired, i would imagin it would be a big job.. where could i find some good detailed info on this subject..
thanks alot,
muskie
175checkmate
12-22-2005, 07:51 PM
Yep, sounds like a bit of rotten wood is in there.
I have replaced the transom on my trimate. Not a job I would have done but I had some great advice from differant folks and decided to give it a go. Well the project turned in to a major overhaul and I am now in the final stages.
Here is the thread.
http://checkmate-boats.com/groupee/forums/a/tpc/f/5951067833/m/5856084761
One of the 1st ways to check the transom you have already done. Pull the motor and look in the bolt holes. The 2nd way os to tap on the transom with a mallett. You will hear the tone change when you get to the rotten stuff.
Transom replacement is to a real bad job. Some basic tools and a buch of time and you can do it your self. I have a ton of pictures I took as I went through it. You boat is not much differant than mine.
If you deside to do it your self I can help walk you through it.
wickedrister
12-23-2005, 12:50 AM
So what do you think Muskie, Gus did some really nice work on his Trimate. Just looking at his pics makes me think that I could pull off a transom job. How about you http://www.checkmate-boats.com/graemlins/thumb.gif
There is a chance you just have a soft spot. Check it out before you start a major job like a transom replacement. With a 1/8" bit start drilling holes from the INSIDE into the core, starting an inch or 2 from the motor bolt hole. Drill holes both up and down until the core is no longer wet. I may be a 4-5" wet spot. If that is all it is t can be easily repaired. First inject acetone into the top WET hole and keep doing it until it comes out the bottom wet hole. Acetone willflush out the water. You must do a thorough job of this as epoxy will not stick to water logged wood. Then dry out the core. The best way is putting a small vacuum over the big hole(sealing the outside) and running it until you are confident you dried out the rotted area. Apply some heat to the area as ths will cause the epoxy to thin and penetrate even better. Put a 1/2" bolt through the main hole and inject low viscosity epoxy into the top hole until it comes out the bottom hole. Seal all the holes to keep the epoxy in. Do not thin the epoxy or use the stuff they sell for this on the internet as it is just thinned epoxy and will not cure hard enough. If you did it properly you should have a very strong repair as the the epoxy penetrated wood has a lot of integrity. The key once again is drying out the core. I've done this repair on the Diplomat in the Avatar and run a 130 Yamaha on a 5" jackplate with not even a stress crack in the tansom.
muskie
12-28-2005, 08:56 PM
thanks. great advice. the checkmate is up north now. so i will be goin up in the next couple of weeks... may not do anything at that time. gonna wait for some warmer weather..
thanks again.
muskie
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