View Full Version : Another new O/B model on the way !
Kip Combs
12-02-2004, 01:41 PM
Thought i'd tell you guys first.....we'll have another new O/B model by spring! Actually 2 ....a new 20'er that will be available in open and closed bows. Pulsare 2000/2000 BR .......They will be just over 20' so we don't have to put all the floatation boxes, etc in them. Also we can rate it for what ever we want and that will be 225 HP. They will be a stretched out version of the Pulsare 1850 BR. The final step will be a new 2100 with a all new hull design that we'll be playing with this summer..... done by next fall it will be 22' (Pulsare 2200/2200 BR)! To fill out and complete the Pulsare O/B line....1600/1850/2000/2200/2400.
When can we see some pictures!! http://www.checkmate-boats.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_eek.gif
JUPITER PULSARE
12-02-2004, 06:49 PM
KIP, CAN YOU EXPAND ON THE NEW HULL DESIGN?? http://www.checkmate-boats.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif OR IS IT TOP SECRET?? http://checkmate-boats.com/6/ws/,s,8626072361/Graemlins/sssh.gif
Kip, when you say 225 HP do I assume it can take a 225 HO Rude, which is really 246-8 HP?
I was wondering, my boat is ratted for a 250 max HP and I'll like to put a 250 HO Rude on it down the road if they make it in a 20" shaft? I guess it's what the insurance companies say?? A 250 HO should push up near 275 HP?
If I can make a suggestion that I feel is VERY important:
On the new Pulsare models that are 20' and over, PLEASE keep the type of transom you have designed on the 2100/BR.
Whenever you have a 'lipped' transom like all the rest of the outboard models, the lipped splashwell creats a problem with water drainage. A hole has to be cut in the transom and a plastic or brass fitting must be installed to allow water drainage. TWO BIG PROBLEMS! 1) All of the water can't drain out, wich results in an ugly splashwell area after the water has dried and left residue. 2) Whether you use plastic or brass or bronze fittings, they will all eventually allow water to seep around the edges and into the core of the transom. Wet transom equals wrecked transom. Every transom I've ever looked at, manufacturer doesn't matter, has a leaking drain fitting and exposed transom wood.
So Please Please Please Please keep the 2100 transom, or a variation of it, for the future boats too http://checkmate-boats.com/6/ws/,s,8626072361/Graemlins/thumb.gif
Thanks for keeping us up to date Kip!!
jkeiper
12-02-2004, 08:59 PM
http://www.checkmate-boats.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_cool.gif Kip; That's GREAT news! I'm glad to see outboard boats being supported with new models. Keep up the great work!
Jim
bostoncan
12-02-2004, 09:17 PM
Kip ,glad to see the closed bow boats being made .Keep us posted
Bruce
12-02-2004, 10:08 PM
Sounds like we all should start "slipping" some money aside to be ready for the new upcoming models. I suspect our chins are going to drop when we catch a glimpse of them.
Maybe just maybe those of us within a reasonable driving distance can meet at the factory for the unveiling, something to think about.
Heck, some of us have driven twice the distance to purchase some of our boats, what's a 6-7 hour drive to Ohio - Piece of Cake !!
Bruce
jkeiper
12-02-2004, 10:46 PM
I think it took me 11hrs. to get there. Sounds like a road trip. http://www.checkmate-boats.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif Maybe some of could ride together from Mn./Wi. If this happens.
Jim
Good idea Bruce. I drove from Wisconsin to Kentucky to pick up my new Pulse 185. Ohio might be a fun roadtrip
jgreen
12-03-2004, 12:05 AM
I drove 1100+ miles from Fargo ND to the factory to pick up a new mate for cmfargo, and I will be going again soon.
"Carpooling" would be a great idea, count me in.
Maybe a checkmate caravan ?
Craig
12-03-2004, 10:16 AM
You're not eliminating the Pulsare 2100 are you? That boat is a legend in it's own time...
-Craig
175checkmate
12-03-2004, 10:28 AM
New models. OH YEA.
I agree with JW on the slash well. It would be a transom saver.
Also as a thought. Are you going to be building the new hulls to accept the new 4 stroke motors?
With the added weight I would think there may be a need for more support in the transom area.
I can see a new verado hanging of the back of one of them.
Craig
12-03-2004, 10:38 AM
Sorry, I read the post again. Looks like the 2100 will become the 2200?? I agree with JW, keep the splashwell the way it is…. I’m worried now. I hope it’s not a drastic redesign. I’m all for making improvements, but I’d like to see you keep the same general style and lines…Well, I’d probably like anything you do, I can’t really think of a Checkmate hull style that I don’t like.
-Craig
jrumon
12-03-2004, 01:42 PM
AWESOME!!! Way to go CHECKMATE!!!
Trick the hull a bit... a small flat running pad would be great, along with maybe a small step to help air it out??? I.E. makes it plane easier, better effeciency, OK... who am I kidding... It's for us top-end nuts to reduce chine-walk and better speed numbers!!! http://checkmate-boats.com/6/ws/,s,8626072361/Graemlins/devil.gif
Beefier transom bracing for the HEAVY 4-strokes is a must... those Verado's weigh almost as much as my TWO 2.5L's... hmmmmm... TWO motors...NOW THATS AN IDEA..2400 hint, hint! http://www.checkmate-boats.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif
Any thoughts of a more "electronics friendly" dash layout??? All those new compact size GPS/NAV chart systems out there...how about a space to flush mount in the dash? It would be spectactular to have a factory molded in location for them!!! http://checkmate-boats.com/6/ws/,s,8626072361/Graemlins/thumb.gif
P.S. I also commend JW on the motor well issue!!! Well stated and a common problem. http://www.checkmate-boats.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_confused.gif
jkeiper
12-04-2004, 01:30 PM
http://www.checkmate-boats.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gifAny chance one of them would or could have a rear sun deck?? http://checkmate-boats.com/6/ws/,s,8626072361/Graemlins/bounce.gif
Jim
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by jkeiper:
http://www.checkmate-boats.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gifAny chance one of them would or could have a rear sun deck?? http://checkmate-boats.com/6/ws/,s,8626072361/Graemlins/bounce.gif
Jim <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I'll say about as much as them offering a lighter weight verson of their boats, such as Progression does! Kevlar?
bdusted440
12-05-2004, 02:35 PM
A sun deck would be the cat's meow on an o/b boat. http://checkmate-boats.com/6/ws/,s,8626072361/Graemlins/thumb.gif
It's been suggested before, for the new 24'er, but did come about! I foregot the reason but I do recall it made sense!
TPCTEC
12-06-2004, 08:39 AM
Time to reserect the 251 GTX
I need to add my voice to the chorus on the splash well. Traditional wells have a serious design flaw (dirt and water collectors, prone to gelcoat cracking). Checkmate hit a home run with the 2100 transom. Every O/B should be designed with it. The alternative is a step backwards. I don't see any reason why every model could not have the engine mounted on a jackplate.
Kip Combs
12-06-2004, 01:03 PM
Guys......thanks for the input. I have question for you about the splash well. With the 2100 well we had some problems with the steering knuckes, fittings, etc hitting the transom well when the motor is in the trailer position if it's not way up on the jackplate.. ( some of you with 2100 could coment). Is that worth living with.. to have the well with out the drain hole..?
MOST DEFINITELY!! I never had a real clearance problem with the standard CMC jack plate lowered all the way down. The Promax still had more than enough tilt range. Yes, I could have driven the engine parts into the fiberglass if I wasn't being careful, but the advantages of the 'lip-less' splash well greatly outweighed (in my opinion) the small clearance problem. When I removed the 5.5" CMC and installed the 10" Heavy Duty RapidJack, the clearance issue was completely gone.
Which brings up another point http://www.checkmate-boats.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif
The 10" setback Heavy Duty RapidJack is much better setback for the Pulsare than the 5.5" CMC. The stock dual cable steering reached no problem, and the boat was MUCH better balanced at 50-60 mph than with the CMC. If/when I get another Pulsare, it will have AT LEAST 10" setback.
Thanks Kip!
jrumon
12-06-2004, 02:01 PM
A few people out there are building boats with NO MOTOR WELLS and installing small set-back brackets or jack-plates instead...
3 MAJOR ADVANTAGES...
#1. Better performance... http://checkmate-boats.com/6/ws/,s,8626072361/Graemlins/thumb.gif
#2. No ugly motor well... http://checkmate-boats.com/6/ws/,s,8626072361/Graemlins/thumb.gif
#3. More usuable interior space... http://checkmate-boats.com/6/ws/,s,8626072361/Graemlins/thumb.gif
A fixed transome bracket or manual jack plate is an inexpensive motorwell fix... Plus several manufactures offer combo swim platform/motor brackets...very nice! A hyd. jack plate could also be a factory option...and of course, hyd. steering to make things simple & safe!
I'd love to see more interior space, storage space, sunpad, cleaner lines, etc...(any or all) from not having a motorwell...
Think about this on that new 24'er...a Gil motor bracket/swim platform for twins or single and you gain...
#1. A longer interior space with 4 buckets or bolsters and a rear bench???
#2. A lift up sunpad with storage compartment below thing???
Could be a new CHECKMATE trend setting concept!!! http://checkmate-boats.com/6/ws/,s,8626072361/Graemlins/bounce.gif
Black Pulse
12-23-2004, 12:30 PM
Can anyone tell me how much a 1600 BR or closed bow and 1700 BR or closed bow cost?? Let's say with the rated hp on the back, 125 for 1600 and 150 for a 1700. I am just curious as I am thinking of scaling down from my Pulse 185 in a couple years. Thanks guys.
Black Pulse
When I was shopping for a Pulse 170 a couple years ago, one could be had with an XR6 150 on a trailer ready to run for under $20k USD. Now that the inexpensive carb motors are going away, I'll bet a new 1600 will be the only boat you can buy ready to run for under $20k.
Bruce
12-23-2004, 11:23 PM
Hi Black Pulse, I'm not sure if you have taken a look at the differences in the models you mentioned, but here is something to think about.
Your current boat is approx. 94 inches wide with a length of 18' 7 ". The 170 is 89 inches wide with a length of around 17' 1", the 1600 is 87 inches wide with a length of 16' 6".
Down sizing would at best give you a 2 foot difference with the 1600 and a 1 foot and a half on a 170. The difference in width is 5-7 inches. I know, nothing earth shaddering with that deduction, I'm just trying to suggest that the difference is very marginal versus the cost that it may introduce. Of course if you can sell your current boat for a decent price and come across a good deal on a used one than perhaps it's worth it.
My current boat is 1992 pulse 170, I was very fortunate enough to find it and at a very fair price $5900.00 Canadian, mind you, I bought it from a former member here on the board after seeing it on E-Bay and it was located in Connecticut. I was looking for a model that would fit into my garage and the 170 fits the bill perfectly, mind you , not much room to spare, single garage door. In my travels, it was very difficult to find a 17 footer, for me I would not consider lets say going up to a 185, there just isn't that much appreciable difference for the extra cost, I would jump to a 21 footer.
To me , unless all the "stars" line up perfectly, that is , you sell your 185 for a decent price and get a great deal on used 170 or 1600, I would stick with your current setup, its a perfect size. In addition, the amount of Checkmates here in Ontario, mind you, it is growing, is not as plentifull as in the United States.
Just my 2 cents
Bruce
Kip, here's a pic of my Pulsare/Promax just before I bought it. No clearance problems at all, as the owner had the motor mounted all the way up. With the jack plate all the way down, the propshaft was plenty deep enough for ski/tubing. The propshaft was around 3.5-4" below the pad like this:
http://img142.exs.cx/img142/2845/sideofmotors7fs.jpg
And here's a pic after I mounted the 9.5" HD RapidJack:
http://img156.exs.cx/img156/7322/1080838img6ns.jpg
Craig
12-27-2004, 04:30 PM
I think most guys will agree that if you’re going to have a splashwell, then go with no “lip”. It’s a potential problem for water damage, and it also makes it look like the back of a bass boat. I had no clearance problems at all with my Pulsare, although I had 8” of set-back. With only 5” you had to be careful and could not fully tilt the motor up if the jack was all the way down, but I don’t see why you would want to do that anyway. I agree with the others, a splashwell with no lip, or a sundeck with no splashwell at all.
Since Kip is asking, I’d like to add these comments on the Pulsare line of boats. I bet not many will agree with me on this, but storage and interior space are not important to me at all. I like the “Hot Rod” look: small cockpit, long deck. I hope this never dies out, or that you at least keep one model this way.
In fact when I had my Pulsare, I would have liked to seen the windshield and front seats back antother 6” to12” and the front seats sitting right on the floor. That’s what I did to mine, I cut those tubes off and brought the bottom of the front seats to within 4” of the floor. I basically had to, in order to operate my foot throttle comfortably. And I needed a foot throttle with my 300 Promax.
More and more people are demanding open bows to maximize passengers and room for skies and equipment, and lots of interior/cockpit space in their sport boats. That’s great , but to me, this is of almost no importance. Just like a Corvette. I know I’m not the only one.
-Craig
jrumon
01-05-2005, 09:39 AM
Great thoughts guys!
I too am in PRAISE of the lip-less style motor well like the 2100 Pulsare, or NO MOTORWELL at all (2400 Pulsare!) with a small sundeck and nice storage compartment below to store gear, jackets, and cooler??? This way, the 2400 could have single or twins...HINT...HINT!!! http://checkmate-boats.com/6/ws/,s,8626072361/Graemlins/biggthumpup.gif
ALSO: there are set-back brackets as well as hydro lifts that have built in "notching" to clear steering stuff in the down position (CMC is NOT one of those).
In addition to the jack plate... I believe these type of boats (any boat with a set-back or jack plate) should have HYDRO STEERING as well! The benefits far out-weigh the costs...Safer, less chance of steering bind, and much cleaner install!
JUPITER PULSARE
01-05-2005, 12:01 PM
ON MY SPECTRA 170, I ENJOYED THE SPLASHWELL. IT MADE A GREAT PLACE TO THROW DRIPPING WET SNORKLE GEAR, SKI VESTS, KNEE BOARDS, ETC TO AVOID SOAKING THE CARPET IN THE COCKPIT AND WITH THE LIP YOU DID NOT HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT ANYTHING SLIDING OUT. I NEVER HAD ANY STRESS CRACKS OR MOISTURE PROBLEMS BUT I DO AGREE THE BOATS LOOK BETTER WITHOUT THE LIP. MY PULSARE DID HAVE CLEARANCE PROBLEMS BETWEEN THE STEERING RAM AND THE SPLASHWELL WITH THE PRIOR OWNER. THERE ARE SOME GELCOAT CHIPS THAT ARE IN NEED OF REPAIR. WITH THE 2" BOBS SPACERS BETWEEN THE MOTOR AND JACKPLATE, I HAVE NOTHING TO WORRY ABOUT AND AM ALWAYS WATCHING HOW FAR I TRIM THE ENGINE UP WHEN THE JACK IS ALL THE WAY DOWN.
Kip, what is the pad width on the new 20' Pulsare? Is it your standard width, or did you go wider?
I am a new member and own a 83 99% restored exciter and am a big outboard enthusist i have always owned checkmate boats and love restoring the older models. But I am glad they are still going to produce a outboard model. Makes all this hard work on restoring these older models worth it when you can see a time line from then till now.. AP
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