LAKETRASH PREDICTOR RESTORE

[ontopcop]

The floor is out of the Predictor, I am ready to start putting it back togethere. While reading the Post, I need something clarified. I believe I've read that I need to saturate the stringers in resin, is this the same resin that I use when I do the fiberglass work? If so, is it with or without the hardner.

Thanks
Lanny

[checkmate fan]

That is the same resin and is with hardner in it. That is what will help water proof the stringers. Good luck with the project.

[ontopcop]

I pulled the gas tank and gutted everything back there, well, what was left anyway. The transom seems solid, no cracks on either the inside or the outside. I have seen a few post's where it was mentioned that braces were added. I can understand doing so, but where, how and what was used.
on an interesting note, when I removed what I am going to assume was the original gas tank, one of the screws on the top tab was missing the flat washer, I found it imbeded in glass near the drain plug.

When I rebuild the stringers, do I box in around the bilge area and connect the stringers to that? Should I run supports up to the top of the hull?

I am still debating on cutting out the floor under the bow area, it is just 1/4 ply, full of foam, the foam is dry and very brittle. It appears that the stringer ran up under the bow, I was thinking of just sliding the stringer as far up into the foam as I can and just leaving it like that. Any ideas.

Pic's are coming.

[ontopcop]

I was able to upload my pics, but I can't get them to attach to this thread. Anyone???

[cooperider]

Where did you upload them to? I don't see them in the gallery.

[ontopcop]

Coop,

I did the manage attachment, it took the pics, i guess and that was all she wrote. If I go to the 'manage attachments it says I have so much space of attachments, but where they went I do not know.

[ontopcop]

i will try this again

[ontopcop]

:thumb: I think I have this thing almost figured out.

[cooperider]

Knock them seat boxes out of there too. Someone has tried to repair them, by placing wood on top of them..One of my Trimates had that. Your replacing the floor, you might as well put NEW boxes in.

[Lakeside Restorations]

I am still debating on cutting out the floor under the bow area, it is just 1/4 ply, full of foam, the foam is dry and very brittle. It appears that the stringer ran up under the bow, I was thinking of just sliding the stringer as far up into the foam as I can and just leaving it like that. Any ideas.

Pic's are coming.

You already are in it this far.. I would continue up & finish it off the right way.. It will also make a stronger & more rigid repair. Dont let the front of the new wood unglassed. If water got up there & in all your hard work could be in vain.. ;) Jamie / Lakeside

[ontopcop]

Well I took your advice and cut into the front bow area. After all of this demo, I think my boat was built on a Friday... The only evidence of a stringer was a piece of fiberglass about 8" long folded over what was left of part of the stringer, and this was imbedded up front in the foam. But thats ok, she's still a Checkmate and I can rebuild her. ;)

[Lakeside Restorations]

See... It's god you did.. I redid one of my checkmates about 15 years ago.. It was a fast little thing.. The model eludes me @ the moment. It was 14' & had a 120 OB on it.. It was a little riot!! :) Jamie / Lakeside



.

[83PREDICTOR]

14ft, that would be a Starfire right?

[ontopcop]

:) The transom seems solid, no cracks on either the inside or the outside. I have seen a few post's where it was mentioned that braces were added. I can understand doing so, but where, how and what was used.

When I rebuild the stringers, do I box in around the bilge area and connect the stringers to that? Should I run supports up to the top of the hull?

[ontopcop]

LKSD get's my vote for the best avatar! :welcome:

[ontopcop]

While walking the isle of Homet Depot, I reallized I have some 1x6 & 1x8 whitewood and pine boards in my shop. I noticed that alot of restores used plywood for the stringers, will the pine or whitewood boards work just as well?

[Lakeside Restorations]

14ft, that would be a Starfire right?


I believe so.. :) Jamie

[Lakeside Restorations]

While walking the isle of Homet Depot, I reallized I have some 1x6 & 1x8 whitewood and pine boards in my shop. I noticed that alot of restores used plywood for the stringers, will the pine or whitewood boards work just as well?

You could use yellow pine, fir works nicer if you have it. Just make sure it is dry, not very sappy & make sure you resin it good.. :)

.

[ontopcop]

Is the fir better to use on things such as seat boxes as well.Thanks again for all of your advice.

[ontopcop]

I noticed you had made a post regarding motors. I'm not that knowledgeable with the engine aspect. I am happy with my Merc 150, it is I am assuming the motor that came with the boat. It runs, and it does run well. If something was to ever go wrong with the motor, do you know if it is worth having it worked on, or should I start looking for a better option?

[Lakeside Restorations]

Is the fir better to use on things such as seat boxes as well.Thanks again for all of your advice.

The fir is more rot resistant & it absorbs the resins nicley. You could use it t here as well.

[Lakeside Restorations]

I noticed you had made a post regarding motors. I'm not that knowledgeable with the engine aspect. I am happy with my Merc 150, it is I am assuming the motor that came with the boat. It runs, and it does run well. If something was to ever go wrong with the motor, do you know if it is worth having it worked on, or should I start looking for a better option?


It would depend on its condition at that time, parts avaiability and the nature of the repair.. ;)

[ndmate]

Hello, just chiming in on my experience with wood on the floor of my hydrostream. I rebuilt the transom and knees with Baltic Birch. It comes in 5 foot square sheets and is hard as hell. I believe 1/2" thick piece has 9 laminations of birch ( hardwood ). Its a little heavier but you cannot even bend a 5' sheet by hand, its really strong. Good luck!

[ontopcop]

Ok, I'm gonna give. What are the knees?

[ontopcop]

Would this be birch plywood? And would you recomend using it for stringers, seat bases and even the floor decking?

[Chris E]

from what i've seen, plywood is better because of its laminations it has more strength than using 1 x whatever. plus it's easy to work with. and if done properly, you will have very little waste.

[ontopcop]

Well the weather has been, well... wet around here. We have so needed the rain. So there hasnt been much progress on Lake Trash. But sunny days are around the corner. Ready to cut and install the stringers and floor. I'm going with the baltic birch.

Until...
Lanny

[cooperider]

Birch, thats what I just bought to do the transom in the MX. Best piece of plywood I ever bought.

[Boston Predictor]

:needpics:

[ontopcop]

Page 1 & 2 have pics of the demo. There will be lots of pics forthcoming as I put her back togethere. When I started the demo, I did not own a digital camera, but since I have bought one, thats where the pics on the first two pages come in. I have to thank Coop for posting my earlier pics of the Lazer. :cheers
Until...
Lanny

[ontopcop]

Wow, I can't believe I have let this project sit for so long, but, I'm trying to get back in the game. I was injured at work, and I have had no use of my right arm for several months. It rained the other day, and as I was doing the routine of dumping the water that had collected in the boat cover, I took a moment and uncovered her. I can't believe how long its been since I was able to get in the boat and work.
Well, she aint ready to hit the water just yet, but I promise to get back to her asap. I look forward to getting some more suggestions and ideas as I get this project back into full swing.
Thanks for all of the advice I have recieved and the knowledge that I have read.
Until...
Lanny

[Boston Predictor]

I was wondering what happend to you. Sorry to hear of your misfortune, but Im glad to hear your back in the game:)

[ontopcop]

Well, I am finally back at work and able to use my right arm again. ^ months og laying around not able to do stuff...well, it sucks. Anyway, I pulled the cover off of Lake Trash and cleaned out the leaves, pecan shells ( I hate Squirrels ) and worked on the floor a bit.

I am at a debate between running a single stringer with side supports, or a double stringer set like illMATTic's. I do like the way illMATTic's is done. I was told to redo the seat boxes earlier in the thread, which I intend to, though I looking at others ways to mount the seats. I don't really like the box look of the seat boxes, I like the pedestal type seats, but there isnt alot of room to play there. I've looked at some of the way the new bass boats are done and I'm thinking maybe a low profile bench type seat box with the seats mounted to that and maybe a storage area in the middle. I'm going to have to play with all ideas.

I just wanted to touch base with the forum and as I progress I will get those pics posted and hopefully we can get this project finished...

Lanny

[ontopcop]

I'm spending the day measuring, cutting, cussing, etc. trying to get the floor stringers and floor templates cut. A question a have is this, it looks like it would be easier and more durable if I have the floor ply cut a little wider than the original floor, so the old floor outline could act as a lip for the new floor. DOES THIS MAKE SCENSE?

Another question, whatever was originally installed under the gas tank sub-floor area was completely rotted away, it did not exist when I tore into this project. I don't recall any particuliar threads that had pics of what the final sub-floor should look like. Is there some sort of box built working as a stringer near the drain plug? Or does the floor just cover this area?

And knees? What are these? I am A$$uming these would be braces from the transom to the hull. But with the gas tank there, would I have enough room for knees?

I'm sorry that I am asking probobly basic question's but, I figured it would be quicker to learn from you guys & GAls as my teacher.

Thanks again,
Lanny

[Dave Dendekker]

don't make the floor any wider than the original. It should sit exactly where the old floor was. It is important to size it as accurately as possible because if it is too small it will "fall" down the slope of the hull. If you put it on top of the lip there will be a lot more work filling in the edges to get your floor transition smooth. Under the gas tank was a stringer (to support a full tank). I would not seal the stringer entirely so any water under the floor has a chance to escape. this will also allow air flow to the underside of the floor from the bilge hole.

[pony3xp]

"I was told to redo the seat boxes earlier in the thread, which I intend to, though I looking at others ways to mount the seats. I don't really like the box look of the seat boxes, I like the pedestal type seats, but there isnt alot of room to play there"

Pedastals don't take much space. Mine are just mounted directly to the floor and the floor has a double layer of plywood cut to match the base of the pedastal. You can see it in the attached, it is not that clear but the round circle at the top is actually an additional 3/4 piece of plywood glassed on top of the floor.