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Welcome to the Checkmate Community Forums

This is a tale of my journey to aquiring and restoring a true classic; the Checkmate Enforcer. I hope it will be entertaining as well as informative.

Most all that I will do and describe will probably be thrown to the wind in the forums first; so I know each of will have a part in the telling of this story. Thanks in advance for all that each of you have done so far, and for what you will do in the future.
Rating: 2 votes, 5.00 average.

Part 10: Stearn rebuild.....My enforcers butt lift!

Posted 11-14-2008 at 05:35 PM by Old Hickory
Updated 11-15-2008 at 01:11 AM by Old Hickory

Finally got around to rebuilding the stearn of the Enforcer. As you can see later she'll begin to shape up and look very similar to a inboard Convincor. First step was to clean up the splashwell cutout. I cut up to the bottom line of my original level line(I left about a inch below the line just in case). I then sanded the edge and the surface down to the gel. These pics show what she looked like after I was finished. See my "Loosin the caboose" post for before pics.





The next step was to make my patterns for the deck cut out and the rest of the transom. The deck was fairly simple; I laid a large piece of refrigerator cardboard on top of the splashwell and traced around the edge. Once I cut it out I divided it into equal halves. This was because the sides of the splash well taper in slightly as they go down; so once I glued my support blocks in; I could then overlap the two halves and have a perfect pattern.

The top portion of the transom where it meets the canted edge of the deck was a bit trickier. It needed two tabs at its bottom that would overlap the skin from behind, and would need to be 3/4" wider on the starboard side. I took my measurements and then laid it out on another piece of cardboard using a framing square and a chaulk line. Much like I would lay out a subfloor. My youngest son then helped me snap the lines and we cut it out. Here are the pics of the end result.



Once the patterns were completed it was time to to cut the support braces for the stearn and the deck. These were 2"x1" blocks cut from a 3/4" piece of coosa. I took the previous measurements I made from when I cut out the splash well and re-established them at this point.

Note here...When doing a rebuild, meticulous measurements are a must when trying to duplicate what you have removed; and even more important if you are building new structures that were not part of the original boat. I'm glad I took the advice from the forum members here; and did just that.


I prepped the blocks by wiping them with a damp surgical towel; and then applied PL Premium.





I pressed three braces on top of the transom allowing for the 3/4" coosa I would be using. There was no need to clamp them due to the fact that they were resting on top and wouldn't move as long as they were not disturbed.





I then began clamping the rest of the braces around the perimeter of the splashwell spacing them evenly up to the the new level line.





These next two pics depict the braces that would be used to adhere the slanted portion of the rear stearn. I would be using 1/2" coosa. I also allowed for filler and glass when determining my setback. This was a guestimation. But it appears after the glue up it will work well.




Before cutting out the top portion of the transom; I realized I didn't have enough material for one long piece....so I scarfed the length together using PL and a support block in the back. This was done prior to installation. As you can see it worked very well and the joint is stronger than the coosa itself.

The next few pics depict the top transom board after it was glued in using PL. The tabs needed some material removed to thin them down abit. Overall I was very pleased with the installation.










Next I had to devise a asthetically pleasing transition from the top rear deck and the stearn itself. The stearn and deck of most Checkmate outboards; port and starboard;extend past the flat surface of the transom slightly; tapering to the center. I cut 2 blocks approximately 2"x7" from 3/4" coosa. These were glued and clamped w/ PL and will be sanded and finished w/ filler to form a tapered transition from the deck edge to the transom. Much like the faux strake tapers just below them.







next I installed the slanting portion of the stearn where it will junction with the deck. I used 1/2" coosa for this installation. PL and hand clamps were also used.



Now it was time to cut and fit the rear deck opening. As you can see the pattern overlapped nicely.

The deck and opening were made with 1/2" coosa. I also had to scarf a short piece around one of the curves. This was done before the final installation, and again, It met with excellent results. The next few pics depict the gluing and clamping and weighting of the rear deck.




I ran out of pic room on this post; I'll finish below.
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Comments

  1. Old Comment
    Old Hickory's Avatar

    part 10: Stearn rebuild.....My enforcers butt lift!

    These final pics show the completed installation. I need to sand and prep for glass next. I'll be using quite a bit of filler to make the transitions smooth. But thats another blog.







    This was my longest blog post to date; I hope you found it interesting.

    Hick


    Posted 11-14-2008 at 05:48 PM by Old Hickory Old Hickory is offline
    Updated 11-15-2008 at 01:20 AM by Old Hickory
  2. Old Comment
    yellowfiero88's Avatar
    Amazing! Hey Hick, are you keeping the top deck lower so that you can add an ass pad on there? Or are you going to bring it up even with the top of the deck?

    BTW, you are getting me excited about restarting on my outboard enchanter summer of 2009! I might even cut her up a lil like you are doing. Got to finish the I/O first tho
    Posted 11-15-2008 at 12:25 PM by yellowfiero88 yellowfiero88 is offline
  3. Old Comment
    Old Hickory's Avatar

    extra pics

    yellowfiero88,

    Thats the plan; the foam on the pad should be 4" or so thick. Won't really know untill I take her to get the interior done. Thats still about 4 months out. I'll also have a swim platform as well. I'm still kicking around a few ideas for it.

    Okay guys as promised......below are some of the culled pics from the first post. The first four show the tabs on the upper transom board from inside the boat. The last 2 are close ups of the scarf I did on the deck opening. The last....more eye candy













    Posted 11-15-2008 at 02:01 PM by Old Hickory Old Hickory is offline
  4. Old Comment
    yellowfiero88's Avatar
    AHHHHH I LOVE HARD NIPS!!!!!!

    So are you going to box it all in then to keep it watertight below then make a separate cushion that bolts in. Or make it open so thet you can access what is below easy? The wait is killing me!!!
    Posted 11-15-2008 at 09:39 PM by yellowfiero88 yellowfiero88 is offline
  5. Old Comment
    Old Hickory's Avatar
    I'm going to make a deck lid that flips up so I can have easy access to the storage below. I still need to install a lip around the edge of the opening. This will form a "trough" of sorts that will keep water from running under the lid and allow it to flow around the opening and down the outside of the transom. in fact I'm getting ready to work on it later this afternoon.

    Hick
    Posted 11-16-2008 at 04:56 PM by Old Hickory Old Hickory is offline
  6. Old Comment
    Rob B's Avatar
    Hick, I like how you went into detail for every picture. The resto is coming along great. Looking at your stringers, are those babies 2x6's? Keep up the great Job.
    Posted 11-16-2008 at 08:19 PM by Rob B Rob B is offline
  7. Old Comment
    Old Hickory's Avatar
    The stringers are 3/4" capped with a 2"x3/4" strip. I will be replacing them with a piece of 2' thick polyester foam. It comes in 4x8 sheets from Advanced Plastics.
    Posted 11-16-2008 at 11:44 PM by Old Hickory Old Hickory is offline
 

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