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September 2010's Boat of the Month Vote!
This poll is closed
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| I vote for tcg19's ZT280! |
9 |
26% |
| I vote for yellowfiero88's Enchanter! |
3 |
9% |
| I vote for dhawkins Flamed Pulsare Shot! |
2 |
6% |
| I vote for Boatman's Checkmate group shot! |
3 |
9% |
| I vote for yellowfiero88's Playmate! |
1 |
3% |
| I vote for JT Patroni's Starflight! |
17 |
49% |
| Voters: |
35 |
100% |
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Welcome to the Checkmate Community Forums |
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03-09-2010, 10:46 PM
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#11
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Enchanter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: welsh louisiana
Posts: 174
Thanks: 113
Thanked 41 Times in 32 Posts
Rep Power: 12
Model Owned: 77 trimate II/ 89 SKEETER
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good luck with the floor project . i used a dewalt roto hammer with a wide chisel and had the whole floor out in just a few hours on the same boat that u have. i laided the flat part of chisel on the floor and started chiseling away. it worked beautiful. just be very very careful not to go through the skin that protects the balsa core...... i had no problems and only took maybe two hrs. my chisel was about a four inch wide chisel for chipping concrete. u can rent these hammers at most equip. rental places.
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03-09-2010, 11:57 PM
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#12
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Vice Admiral
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Lake Havasu AZ
Posts: 808
Thanks: 130
Thanked 192 Times in 123 Posts
Rep Power: 86
Model Owned: 1000 hp 98 253 convincor,99Rienell184BR volvo penta, 73 23' IMP INCA 305 OMC
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I always start with a skill saw with a marathon blade. It's powerful and I can set the blade dept and know it won't slip, finish up the corners with a sawzall, 4-1/4' makita hand grinder with a cut off wheel where I can't get to with the skill. I don't think there is any set tool long as you get clean results.
Please No 100lb demo hammers or chainsaws
MK
__________________
MKhammer
MKHammer Speed and Marine Inc.
www.mkhammer.com
True Marine engines
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03-10-2010, 10:24 AM
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#13
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Enforcer
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Coventry R.I.
Age: 41
Posts: 524
Thanks: 43
Thanked 59 Times in 57 Posts
Rep Power: 87
Model Owned: 1990 pulse 186 225hp
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I used a electric Die grinder with a "fast,thin burr free disk. It made real quick work of it,with a smooth cut, But it made dust. I'd like to see Suntimes vibratory cutter in action, that looks like the it may be the most forgiving if you were to make a mistake.
__________________
"C'mon Guys.. it's all ball bearings nowadays"
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03-11-2010, 07:33 AM
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#14
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Jetmate
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Howland, Ohio
Age: 29
Posts: 39
Thanks: 4
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Rep Power: 0
Model Owned: Trimate II
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SunTime
I have to say I used all of the above tools and all were of benifit however this thing here is chitz and I used it and all it's accessories more then I've used anything else. You won't regret having one in your tool box I promise you as it's made my resto go much easier!
BTW, add the grout remover into your accessories for this tool , it's awesome for cutting and grinding glass and holds up without problem at all.

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I've actually thought about something like this for other projects too, but it seems like it'd take forever to make a cut...
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03-12-2010, 09:09 AM
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#15
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Enchanter
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 178
Thanks: 72
Thanked 25 Times in 24 Posts
Rep Power: 54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbattles
I've actually thought about something like this for other projects too, but it seems like it'd take forever to make a cut...
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You'd be VERY supprised how well this thing works and it's tough enough to take the heat. The great thing about the tool is you can turn your cutting blades or whatever accessory your using to any angle you need. Works EXCELLENT for getting into corners weather you need to cut, grind or sand.
It's not a tool that replaces your sawsall or cirular saw in a restoration but I can't see doing another restoration without one. It's uses are almost endless with the accessories you get with it, or can buy.
They sell 2 different grout removal blades and you can't wear them out as the one I bought is still like it was when I bought it and that's after using it to cut fiberglass, grind it, etc.
Also a blade to remove chaulking comes with the tool and it works awesome for that purpose. Really made cleaning off the chaulk on my hull to deck joint a breeze.
I'll be shocked if someone goes out and buy's this thing and doesnt' think it's the best thing since sliced bread...
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03-12-2010, 01:00 PM
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#16
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Jetmate
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Howland, Ohio
Age: 29
Posts: 39
Thanks: 4
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Rep Power: 0
Model Owned: Trimate II
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SunTime
You'd be VERY supprised how well this thing works and it's tough enough to take the heat. The great thing about the tool is you can turn your cutting blades or whatever accessory your using to any angle you need. Works EXCELLENT for getting into corners weather you need to cut, grind or sand.
It's not a tool that replaces your sawsall or cirular saw in a restoration but I can't see doing another restoration without one. It's uses are almost endless with the accessories you get with it, or can buy.
They sell 2 different grout removal blades and you can't wear them out as the one I bought is still like it was when I bought it and that's after using it to cut fiberglass, grind it, etc.
Also a blade to remove chaulking comes with the tool and it works awesome for that purpose. Really made cleaning off the chaulk on my hull to deck joint a breeze.
I'll be shocked if someone goes out and buy's this thing and doesnt' think it's the best thing since sliced bread... 
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You make quite the argument. I just went out and picked one up. Hopefully what's left of the floor will be out this weekend.
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03-12-2010, 08:56 PM
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#17
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Enforcer
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Clear Lake, Tx
Posts: 746
Thanks: 35
Thanked 69 Times in 54 Posts
Rep Power: 85
Model Owned: Ski Mate I
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I used a cut off wheel on a air driven die grinder for the straight areas, http://www.xairtools.com/3-Air-Cut-Off-Tool-1.html. then switched to a burr bit for the tight areas, then switched to a burr bit for the tight areas. The bonus was an awsome pattern for the new piece.
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03-13-2010, 01:48 AM
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#18
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Diplomat
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cincinnati,OH
Age: 33
Posts: 1,606
Thanks: 487
Thanked 443 Times in 344 Posts
Rep Power: 55
Model Owned: 1986 21' enchanter, 87 13' playmate
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkhammer
Please No 100lb demo hammers or chainsaws
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This is my tool of choice 
If you just get cut through to the bondo, your 90% there. I used a circular saw to cut through all of mine so far. From there a wonder bar, gloves and a trash can  . A 4 1/2" grinder with 36 grit will clean it all up nice and prep for re glassing the floor in. Just make sure you don't get into the balsa.
__________________
Brian Blair
Quote:
Originally Posted by captainmorgan
but who else do you know who can fly a boat, touch & pet a black goose in mid flight, feel the air off their wings, in a pop corn popper of a checkmate? ONLY THE ENCHANTED
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03-19-2010, 01:56 AM
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#19
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Trimate
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: baton rouge, La
Posts: 118
Thanks: 7
Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
Rep Power: 29
Model Owned: 1984 predictor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JT Patroni
Groundloop
I don't know anyone that has ever kept the guard on a grinder, weather it
be a 4" or a 7". They actually get in the way making it more dangerous.
(30 years experience as a pro fabricator/welder) Not ashamed to say so!
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yes they do get in the way but i personally have 3 grinders and the only one that does not have a guard is the one i use the flap wheel on all the time. i took the guard off of one with a cutting wheel and sure enough i got a bad skip, through the glove and 5 stitches in my pointer finger. i almost cut the tendon and lost use of my finger.
i have also seen a cut-off wheel break to pieces and hit someone in the face. thank god he was wearing eye protection.
i do not recommend anybody take the guard off their grinders.
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03-19-2010, 06:42 AM
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#20
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Convincor
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Cape May, NJ
Posts: 359
Thanks: 107
Thanked 109 Times in 101 Posts
Rep Power: 19
Model Owned: 1985 Starflite 96 Johnson 3.0 200 LE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slamram99
yes they do get in the way but i personally have 3 grinders and the only one that does not have a guard is the one i use the flap wheel on all the time. i took the guard off of one with a cutting wheel and sure enough i got a bad skip, through the glove and 5 stitches in my pointer finger. i almost cut the tendon and lost use of my finger.
i have also seen a cut-off wheel break to pieces and hit someone in the face. thank god he was wearing eye protection.
i do not recommend anybody take the guard off their grinders.
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While your point is well taken for most people, the biggest percentage of all injuries with any tool are caused by the operator not paying proper attention to how they use it.
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