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Restoration Discussions This forum is discussing restorations, as well as for threads with detailed photos of the various steps of a restoration.

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Old 03-09-2010, 10:46 PM   #11
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good luck with the floor project . i used a dewalt roto hammer with a wide chisel and had the whole floor out in just a few hours on the same boat that u have. i laided the flat part of chisel on the floor and started chiseling away. it worked beautiful. just be very very careful not to go through the skin that protects the balsa core...... i had no problems and only took maybe two hrs. my chisel was about a four inch wide chisel for chipping concrete. u can rent these hammers at most equip. rental places.
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Old 03-09-2010, 11:57 PM   #12
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I always start with a skill saw with a marathon blade. It's powerful and I can set the blade dept and know it won't slip, finish up the corners with a sawzall, 4-1/4' makita hand grinder with a cut off wheel where I can't get to with the skill. I don't think there is any set tool long as you get clean results.

Please No 100lb demo hammers or chainsaws


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Old 03-10-2010, 10:24 AM   #13
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I used a electric Die grinder with a "fast,thin burr free disk. It made real quick work of it,with a smooth cut, But it made dust. I'd like to see Suntimes vibratory cutter in action, that looks like the it may be the most forgiving if you were to make a mistake.
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Old 03-11-2010, 07:33 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by SunTime View Post
I have to say I used all of the above tools and all were of benifit however this thing here is chitz and I used it and all it's accessories more then I've used anything else. You won't regret having one in your tool box I promise you as it's made my resto go much easier!
BTW, add the grout remover into your accessories for this tool , it's awesome for cutting and grinding glass and holds up without problem at all.

I've actually thought about something like this for other projects too, but it seems like it'd take forever to make a cut...
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Old 03-12-2010, 09:09 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by cbattles View Post
I've actually thought about something like this for other projects too, but it seems like it'd take forever to make a cut...
You'd be VERY supprised how well this thing works and it's tough enough to take the heat. The great thing about the tool is you can turn your cutting blades or whatever accessory your using to any angle you need. Works EXCELLENT for getting into corners weather you need to cut, grind or sand.
It's not a tool that replaces your sawsall or cirular saw in a restoration but I can't see doing another restoration without one. It's uses are almost endless with the accessories you get with it, or can buy.

They sell 2 different grout removal blades and you can't wear them out as the one I bought is still like it was when I bought it and that's after using it to cut fiberglass, grind it, etc.
Also a blade to remove chaulking comes with the tool and it works awesome for that purpose. Really made cleaning off the chaulk on my hull to deck joint a breeze.

I'll be shocked if someone goes out and buy's this thing and doesnt' think it's the best thing since sliced bread...
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Old 03-12-2010, 01:00 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SunTime View Post
You'd be VERY supprised how well this thing works and it's tough enough to take the heat. The great thing about the tool is you can turn your cutting blades or whatever accessory your using to any angle you need. Works EXCELLENT for getting into corners weather you need to cut, grind or sand.
It's not a tool that replaces your sawsall or cirular saw in a restoration but I can't see doing another restoration without one. It's uses are almost endless with the accessories you get with it, or can buy.

They sell 2 different grout removal blades and you can't wear them out as the one I bought is still like it was when I bought it and that's after using it to cut fiberglass, grind it, etc.
Also a blade to remove chaulking comes with the tool and it works awesome for that purpose. Really made cleaning off the chaulk on my hull to deck joint a breeze.

I'll be shocked if someone goes out and buy's this thing and doesnt' think it's the best thing since sliced bread...
You make quite the argument. I just went out and picked one up. Hopefully what's left of the floor will be out this weekend.
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Old 03-12-2010, 08:56 PM   #17
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I used a cut off wheel on a air driven die grinder for the straight areas, http://www.xairtools.com/3-Air-Cut-Off-Tool-1.html. then switched to a burr bit for the tight areas, then switched to a burr bit for the tight areas. The bonus was an awsome pattern for the new piece.
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Old 03-13-2010, 01:48 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkhammer View Post
Please No 100lb demo hammers or chainsaws

This is my tool of choice
If you just get cut through to the bondo, your 90% there. I used a circular saw to cut through all of mine so far. From there a wonder bar, gloves and a trash can. A 4 1/2" grinder with 36 grit will clean it all up nice and prep for re glassing the floor in. Just make sure you don't get into the balsa.
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Old 03-19-2010, 01:56 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JT Patroni View Post
Groundloop

I don't know anyone that has ever kept the guard on a grinder, weather it
be a 4" or a 7". They actually get in the way making it more dangerous.
(30 years experience as a pro fabricator/welder) Not ashamed to say so!
yes they do get in the way but i personally have 3 grinders and the only one that does not have a guard is the one i use the flap wheel on all the time. i took the guard off of one with a cutting wheel and sure enough i got a bad skip, through the glove and 5 stitches in my pointer finger. i almost cut the tendon and lost use of my finger.

i have also seen a cut-off wheel break to pieces and hit someone in the face. thank god he was wearing eye protection.

i do not recommend anybody take the guard off their grinders.
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Old 03-19-2010, 06:42 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slamram99 View Post
yes they do get in the way but i personally have 3 grinders and the only one that does not have a guard is the one i use the flap wheel on all the time. i took the guard off of one with a cutting wheel and sure enough i got a bad skip, through the glove and 5 stitches in my pointer finger. i almost cut the tendon and lost use of my finger.

i have also seen a cut-off wheel break to pieces and hit someone in the face. thank god he was wearing eye protection.

i do not recommend anybody take the guard off their grinders.
While your point is well taken for most people, the biggest percentage of all injuries with any tool are caused by the operator not paying proper attention to how they use it.
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