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Gimble Ring replacement?

winter

Active member
Just how fun is it to replace the gimble ring on a Bravo-1? I have allot of side to side and a little up and down slop in mine. The part is ultra-expensive so i'm trying to save a few $$$ on the installation. Thanks!
 
Not a easy job but can be done. You have to options pull the engine or drill holes. When you take it apart you need to change the gimble ring, king pins and I would also replace the steering shaft that connects to the upper king pin. All these parts ware together their is no cheap way around it. Plus you need to change all rubbers when you have it apart.



 
The reason for pulling the engine or drilling holes is to remove the nut on the top king pin. Merc manual shows both ways.



In the pic I posted below shows where the holes are that needs to be drilled one on each side.
 

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Most helpful!!! But now it has me curious as to where the slop is coming from as far as the steering. It doesn't appear that the ring itself is as bad as the upper king pin and/or steering shaft. I'm assuming it is impossible to diagnose the wear on the upper king pin and steering shaft with the outdrive still in, correct?
 
I would say all the parts have ware on them. They all ware together. If your king pin is worn the ring is worn.
 
$901 for the dern thing. You'd think they would sell a bushing kit to fix it. Red, is there any special tools needed to replace the ring? Working on foreign cars, i have a pretty expansive set of tools, but there is always something. :shakehead:
 
In the pic below I pointed to the spot that takes a special torx bit. I can't remember what it is without going to look. To get it out heat may be needed, I did not have any oxidation to deal with. My boat was never left in the water or outside. But I here the kingpins and the bolts I pointed to are a bear if they have oxidation or saltwater use. A cherry picker or what some call a " motor mule " is a real good idea to hold the drive up when pulling it off. You need the Merc manual, the shifter cable is a bit tricky but is obvious when pulling it apart after reading the manual.
 

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Torx wrenches are no problem. Are there any alignment issues upon installation of either the ring or outdrive to transom? Or does it simply bolt back on as normal?
 
The only aliment you have is the gimble bearing. I would also change that when you take it apart if it has never been done. Its around 100.00, When you stick the new bearing in, I don't know what causes it but it never seems to be right.

I used a big slide hammer to pull my bearing out. I had to weld on the ears some for better grip but it was a cheaper made slide hammer that I used on axle bearings.

You adjust the aliment with the engine mounts if you choose not to change the bearing aliment still should be checked, if its off it will be a bear putting the drive back on.

I learn the hard way :(
 
Cool. The bearign was changed last season, so i think it's good, but i'll have a better look at it when it comes off. thanks again Red, we'll see how it goes!
 
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