1981 Enticer Partial Floor Repair

[DropTop5.0]

I bought Top Enticer's Enticer and it had a small section of the floor removed and it needs to go back in. So I'm ripping out the gas tank and the battery and I'm looking at the wiring and stuff around and I think to myself this boat is really 30 years old.

When is the last time you bought something used and didn't piss and moan about the rats nest of wiring. I'm pretty happy so far. I may heat shrink a few wires because of my semi-anal ways but it looks pretty darn good.

Here's a few pics.

 

[KevinR]

if the rest of the boat looks that good you should be happy. More pictures.

 

[DropTop5.0]

Plywood Question

From my research on this board it appears I could use marine plywood or exterior grade plywood from Lowes or Home Depot with the preferred may be being the marine grade. What is exterior grade plywood. Is that "treated" plywood?

 

[Rob B]

From my research on this board it appears I could use marine plywood or exterior grade plywood from Lowes or Home Depot with the preferred may be being the marine grade. What is exterior grade plywood. Is that "treated" plywood?

Exterior plywood will work as long as you encapsulate it in resin and matt prior to installing in the boat. Then completely glass the floor in place. Treated and exterior plywood are two different types of wood.

 

[DropTop5.0]

Exterior plywood will work as long as you encapsulate it in resin and matt prior to installing in the boat. Then completely glass the floor in place. Treated and exterior plywood are two different types of wood.

Thanks Robbie on the clarification of treated and exterior.

One more question, if I bought a piece of marine plywood is their a need to encapsulate it in resin / epoxy?

 

[Rob B]

Thanks Robbie on the clarification of treated and exterior.

One more question, if I bought a piece of marine plywood is their a need to encapsulate it in resin / epoxy?

Marine plywood would hold up longer without the matt and resin as oppose to exterior grade, but I would still encapsulate it completely for a piece of mind.

 

[DropTop5.0]

Thanks again Robbie.

So my plan is to encapsulate a stringer made of 2x4. Encapsulate a section of plywood. Bond the 2x4 to the hull using PL premium construction adhesive. Then bond the plywood to the stringer with the same adhesive. Then fill the cracks with a Hull & Deck putty. Then paint over it to look uniform. Does that sound reasonable?

 

[Rob B]

Thanks again Robbie.

So my plan is to encapsulate a stringer made of 2x4. Encapsulate a section of plywood. Bond the 2x4 to the hull using PL premium construction adhesive. Then bond the plywood to the stringer with the same adhesive. Then fill the cracks with a Hull & Deck putty. Then paint over it to look uniform. Does that sound reasonable?

You got it!!! For your stringer you can use 1708 mat to secure it to the hull. Once you've got the above done add a layer of mat over the repaired area and the existing to seal in place.

 

[DropTop5.0]

I went to West Marine and got most of my materials sans plywood which I expected to get from Lowes or Home Depot. To my dismay they don't carry AA or AB plywood. The best I could find at the local stores is CDX and that stuff looks ruff. Some guy at Lowes said to try a place called Allied Plywood in Alexandria so we'll see. I found some Marine Plywood in Annapolis (1 hour away) but it's $110 a sheet or 65 a half sheet so we'll see what Allied has.

On a good note. I have my garden turned and ready for planting.

 

[JT Patroni]

ACX plywood would be the better choice if marine BS1088 is too expensive.

 

[Will30]

The boat is in really god shape for the age . I was checking it over this past summer when a group of us was out on the saginaw river in august . Here is the thread from last year if you havent seen it yet . Your boat is pictured in here a few times
http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17247&highlight=saginaw+river

 

[DropTop5.0]

Thanks to you both JT and Will.

 

[groundloop]

.... I found some Marine Plywood in Annapolis (1 hour away) but it's $110 a sheet or 65 a half sheet so we'll see what Allied has....

That doesn't sound right. When I was rebuilding my Eluder I got 4 x 8 sheets of 3/4 marine plywood (for the transom) for 80 something per sheet. Were you pricing 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch? (You need 1/2 inch plywood for the deck - I'm guessing you know that but I'll throw it out just in case).

BTW, the main difference between "marine" grade plywood and exterior grade plywood (ACX) is that there are zero voids in the marine grade, whereas regular exterior plywood is allowed to have voids. As you can imagine, plywood with voids in the middle isn't as strong - that's why only marine grade plywood should be used for the transom, but exterior grade is ok for the deck (in most cases). Both use waterproof glue to hold the plies together, but both will eventually rot if they stay wet long enough (neither is pressure treated).

 

[DropTop5.0]

This is the cheapest / closest place I found in my area: http://www.clcboats.com/shop/produc...ywood-cedar-strips/okoume-marine-plywood.html

 

[NEBS]

I would go with the marine plywood. I used 2 sheets of 1/2" on my floor. It really is worth the money. Once it's fiberglassed over it will be very strong.(make sure you use bi-axle fiberglass mat and fiberglass roller to work out the bubbles in the laminate and ensure all the glass fibers are saturated with resin)

 

[DropTop5.0]

Thanks NEBS, I'll go get a roller. I didn't think about air bubbles.

 

[keith4216]

This is the cheapest / closest place I found in my area: http://www.clcboats.com/shop/produc...ywood-cedar-strips/okoume-marine-plywood.html

Check out this place they may be closer to you. I have no idea what there prices are but it's worth a phone call! http://www.tartlumber.com/

 

[DropTop5.0]

Thanks Keith. The had a sheet of Marine Grade (AB) Fir for 85 bucks and they are only five miles away from me. I don't know why I couldn't find them myself. Thanks again!

 

[DropTop5.0]

So I have had all my supplies but I didn't have a circular saw and it took me a week to decide on what to buy. I decided on the Milwaukee.

I got in there today and started removing a little more wood and getting things sanded down. Attached are a few pics and of course I have a few questions.

1. That black stuff is the strongest paint I have ever come seen, is that gelcoat?
2. Should I keep sanding to remove all the paint or is having a roughed surface fine for the resin and cloth to adhere to?
3. If you look closely at the 3rd picture I posted when I started this thread there is a little blemish on the left side of the bildge, right up against where the bildge was. It is some fiberglass cloth that lifted. I cut it out and smoothed it down with the sander. Should I cover this whole area with a little resin while I've got this apart?

 

[Rob B]

So I have had all my supplies but I didn't have a circular saw and it took me a week to decide on what to buy. I decided on the Milwaukee.

I got in there today and started removing a little more wood and getting things sanded down. Attached are a few pics and of course I have a few questions.

1. That black stuff is the strongest paint I have ever come seen, is that gelcoat?
2. Should I keep sanding to remove all the paint or is having a roughed surface fine for the resin and cloth to adhere to?
3. If you look closely at the 3rd picture I posted when I started this thread there is a little blemish on the left side of the bildge, right up against where the bildge was. It is some fiberglass cloth that lifted. I cut it out and smoothed it down with the sander. Should I cover this whole area with a little resin while I've got this apart?

What grit are you using? I needed 36 grit to sand some areas on both of my projects. You need to remove the black along sides,front and transom about six inches for the overlap. You can add a layer of cloth to bottom to seal any nicks from the sander/grinder prior to installing the new section.