re-starting the project - 87 Starflite

[pony3xp]

Hi All,
After 4 years, i'm re-starting my project
http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10477

Sorry, not 100% sure if I should start a new thread or add to the existing.

Took the deck off today, confirmed that a new transom is required, will be getting at that tomorrow. What is the best way to remove the bolts in the transom for the platform and the u-bolts. The nuts came right off the back of the platform bolts, hit them lightly with a hammer and they are not budging. The nuts on the ubolts....well lets just say what is left of them are rusted on (they are almost non existent). Should I just cut them off? I hate to waste them, they have lasted this long, they must be half decent stainless.

Thanks

 

[Rob B]

Hi All,
After 4 years, i'm re-starting my project
http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10477

Sorry, not 100% sure if I should start a new thread or add to the existing.

Took the deck off today, confirmed that a new transom is required, will be getting at that tomorrow. What is the best way to remove the bolts in the transom for the platform and the u-bolts. The nuts came right off the back of the platform bolts, hit them lightly with a hammer and they are not budging. The nuts on the ubolts....well lets just say what is left of them are rusted on (they are almost non existent). Should I just cut them off? I hate to waste them, they have lasted this long, they must be half decent stainless.

Thanks

I would cut them off and buy all new bolts and nuts. I had to do that on my Enforcer. Good luck with the resto!!

 

[pony3xp]

2 min

Thanks Pulse... it took 2 minutes to cut them off, and i would have spent two hours trying to save them. Got the transom out and most of the hull cleaned up. Luckily it came out in one piece, so cutting the new one was fairly easy. Boy, once the water gets in it just doesn't leave. It is amazing how wet it still was. I think the transom weighed about 150lbs....

Now I need to order supplies and wait, hopefully they will get here this week. What is the going consensus on the number of gallons needed to do the transom and floor? I usually like to have enough rather than need it and not have it.

 

[Rob B]

Thanks Pulse... it took 2 minutes to cut them off, and i would have spent two hours trying to save them. Got the transom out and most of the hull cleaned up. Luckily it came out in one piece, so cutting the new one was fairly easy. Boy, once the water gets in it just doesn't leave. It is amazing how wet it still was. I think the transom weighed about 150lbs....

Now I need to order supplies and wait, hopefully they will get here this week. What is the going consensus on the number of gallons needed to do the transom and floor? I usually like to have enough rather than need it and not have it.

I used 6 gallons of poly resin for the transom and floor for the Enforcer. I guess it would depend which resin you're using poly or epoxy.

 

[pony3xp]

epoxy

I was going to go with the us composite epoxy. I wanted to use the Poly but everything I read said that the epoxy was more forgiving and rookies would get better results.
I read the epoxy thread about three times (and I still don't 100% get it), i was going to do the 5gal+1.5gal of hardner deal.

 

[OFFSHORE GINGER]

Hey guy spend a little more money and go with Epoxy which means ...more work time ....with less stank or www.uscomposites.com going with there #635 which offers the most bang for the buck when it comes to Epoxy resin .

 

[OFFSHORE GINGER]

I was going to go with the us composite epoxy. I wanted to use the Poly but everything I read said that the epoxy was more forgiving and rookies would get better results.
I read the epoxy thread about three times (and I still don't 100% get it), i was going to do the 5gal+1.5gal of hardner deal.

Pony 3xp , . if there is anything that does not make any sence to you about using epoxy ....please feel free to ask , and i mean that or shoot me a P.M. .

 

[caliburn]

good luck with the rebuild, I am so lucky my transom was good, all I can say is what ever product you decide on, weather, humidity and temp play a big factor on pot life, only mix what you need you can always mix more.

 

[pony3xp]

Splashwell replacement

Hi All,

Since I couldn't sleep last night, i started thinking about the splashwell and the transom. In the starflite model, the top engine bolts go through one layer of 3/4" plywood only. The bottom bolts have 2 - 3/4" and 1 -1/2" to go through.

Because of this, i think it leads to the top of the splashwell cracking (see pic). The reason it has to be one layer is becuase it has to fit into the splashwell (I think). If I change the configuration of the splashwell (i.e. remove it) as many have suggested, then I think I can make the transom a full thickness for all the engine bolts. Since I have to fix the splashwell lip anyway.....

Of course, i have already cut the transom pieces, so I will need another sheet of plywood, but that is the easy part.

For those of you who have re-configured the splashwell in your starflights, did you make the entire transom the same thickness?
Thanks

 

[JT Patroni]

My transom is 1-3/4" thick with the 1/4" layer stopping at the step for the lip. You can see this in my photobucket album in my signature.

 

[pony3xp]

Thanks JT

The 1/4" stop was on the outside?
And the rest fit up into the spashwell without modifications?
Thanks!

 

[BADBK]

I have some glassing to do, but I am revamping my splashwell to alleviate the cracking due to the poor design. I will post a picture of what I'm doing in next few days.

 

[JT Patroni]

I had the crack at the top of the transom like most everyone else.

I applied a layer of 1708 under that lip before making the repair to the crack.
The boat has been on the water for 2 seasons since the repair and shows no signs of the crack returning.

 

[pony3xp]

gelcoat

I have read a bunch about painting gelcoat on inside bilge area and ski locker. I am assuming that you do that to protect the fiberglass as water is going to sit inside to some extent. I'm assuming that is what the "black" on the bottom is now (see pics, sorry for the dust).

My question is this. Do I need to sand all of this off or just clean it up good before I re-do the transom and stringers (using epoxy)? I have removed all the lose edges and sanded it fairly flat.

Also, I'm going to re-do this when I am done. Gelcoat or bilge paint?
Thanks

 

[Ramifications]

I have read a bunch about painting gelcoat on inside bilge area and ski locker. I am assuming that you do that to protect the fiberglass as water is going to sit inside to some extent. I'm assuming that is what the "black" on the bottom is now (see pics, sorry for the dust).

My question is this. Do I need to sand all of this off or just clean it up good before I re-do the transom and stringers (using epoxy)? I have removed all the lose edges and sanded it fairly flat.

Also, I'm going to re-do this when I am done. Gelcoat or bilge paint?
Thanks

Before I gel coated mine, I sanded it all down to remove any dirt and/or glue build up and cleaned it thoroughly before two coats of gel. I left it smooth (no texture) in the bilge area to make it easier to keep clean.

My boat stays on the trailer, so I won't have any water sitting in the bilge, but I suppose some could. I did it for a better finished look and to make it easier to clean.

I believe gel coat won't adhere directly over epoxy... if I'm wrong someone will correct me.

 

[paulsboats]

I sanded my bilge and and rolled interlux interprotect barrier coat and painted it...... no chance of the core absorbing water unless i poke a hole thru the bottom.

 

[paulsboats]

Before I gel coated mine, I sanded it all down to remove any dirt and/or glue build up and cleaned it thoroughly before two coats of gel. I left it smooth (no texture) in the bilge area to make it easier to keep clean.

My boat stays on the trailer, so I won't have any water sitting in the bilge, but I suppose some could. I did it for a better finished look and to make it easier to clean.

I believe gel coat won't adhere directly over epoxy... if I'm wrong someone will correct me.

im not sure but they may have some kind of tie coat available these days...OG may be the one too ask

 

[pony3xp]

Seats!

Well, it is that time of year again, where I spend another couple of months working on my starflight in the hopes that I will get it running this year.

I did by an engine last year, so I really have no excuses.

I just finished redoing the seat vinyl, and was going to put them back together this weekend until I saw the foam. Where do you get your seat foam? I know I can get it online, just wondering about other retail options.

Thanks, and sorry for the bad pic, i'll post more when I am done.

 

[pony3xp]

Finished!!

Well, I did it. I'm done (for the most part) and plan on splashing my starflite this weekend. I still have to put the rubrail on it, and mount a couple of items,buff the sides out and wet sand the new "perfection" paint (don't ask), but I hope to be driving it this weekend.

I have one item left and that is the prop. I found a turbo prop on CL, i've read a bit about them and they seem to get half decent reviews for this hull. My question is, how do I know if it will fit? Are props all basically the same "size". I realize the hubs can be different and the pitch etc, but this is a 13 3/4 x 24, which to me means it is a standard size 24 pitch prop?

Sorry about my stupidity in this area, I have read enough about them but it is the simple things that elude me sometimes.

 

[atc250r]

What are you powering it with?