1981 Enticer Questions

[Rob B]

Since you're going to remove the cap, I would do a complete restoration; transom, floor stringers etc. The transom: once the floor is removed cut around the perimeter with a cutoff wheel on a grinder. All you're doing is putting a score line around the transom to remove it, so you don't need to cut deep. Second you'll want to make some wooden wedges to drive between the outer skin and transom, that should break it loose. Be careful not to damage the outer skin when doing that. Try to remove the transom in one piece to use for a pattern. Attached is a visual of how to install the stringers,floor and transom.

Edit: You'll need to build some transom clamps when you're ready to install the transom. Here's the link:http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23591

For core repair:http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27838

 

[Rob B]

Here's a list of supplies to go by:

From Merton's http://www.mertons.com/index.html

5-Gallons of Polyester Resin
14 yds x50" of 1 1/2oz mat (CSM)
4yds x12" of 6 oz mat
6 yds x12" of 1708
12 yds x38" of 1708- for transom or you can use CSM 1.5 oz/woven roving/ CSM 1.5oz sandwich together
2-gallons of Hull & Deck putty
1"x6" Alum roller
1"x3" alum roller
1-sheet of 3/8"x24"x48" core if needed for core repair.


From Lowes
2-1/2" top grade exterior plyboard - floor
1-3/4" top grade exterior plyboard - stringers/knees
2- 3/4" Birch or douglas fir - transom

 

[wired]

Split the boat . Cut the old transom wood out from the inside . Glue a couple of 3/4" marine grade plywood sheets together ( I used birch plywood and it worked fine for 250 HP ) and cut the new transom out of that wood. set it in place and get busy with the fiberglass and resin. LOTS of resin. However much resin you think you will need triple it.

 

[adrenaline_junkie]

Progress

Its been a while since I have posted so I thought I would share some progress.

The top cap is off and I played a game called follow the rot. Turns out nearly all the wood needed to come out. the only exceptions were the transom and the seat mount blocks. Everything else was nearly 100% rotted. For good measure I did have the transom inspected.

Next up. start rebuilding the floor. What is the recommended putty for filling in the gaps between the edges of the plywood and the hull? Any suggestions for determining the dimensions of the floor and transom?

http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/Jason_Haag/media/IMAG0219_zpslnmvulwj.jpg.html

 

[adrenaline_junkie]

Time? Where does it go?

NOTE: I dont like photobucket right now......

Wow how time flies. Im still working on the enticer. I put up a temp garage tent thing that has survived a few nasty storms including Irma (atlanta). I didnt suffer much damage but a few friends at the marina had to raise their houseboats, facinating process.

If you follow the threads, i have had questions about everything related to the rot within the hull. Let me provide some progress...

I removed about 95% of all the non core wood in the hull. I split the top cap for easier access and while a few have said that was a mistake, i disagree as it allowed me unrestricted access to some annoying areas. I did replace some balsa core in the forward sections but AFT, everything was in great shape. i took the shell to my fiberglass guy and he checked out the transom and said it was in great condition and not to worry.

I have been working on this boat it seems for 3.5-4 years now as time allows. Its been a process. I found some original bucket seat shells in great condition and I recently repaired those. As time has allowed, i have been building the replacement internal stuctures like seat boxes, removing rusted bolts, guages, and wiring harnesses. I have also been building the replacement wood parts that I removed. I dont know what they are called but in the aft section are two foam filled boxes and mid section there are two more filled with foam.

This leads me to my question. Should I fill the empty spaces with closed cell urethane foam or should i not bother. i have heard mentions either way but I am getting close to needing to decide and was just wondering what the "family" has to say about it.

for those that dont know. my first boat when I was 12 was a 1979 precictor. My dad bought it for us and we only had it for a few years, i learned how to drive a boat, ski, pull a skier, trailer, and care for a boat with this predictor. Sadly he sold it when i was 17 but I still have fond memories of my checkmate. I found this 81 enticer in the woods north of gainesville, ga and had to take on the responsibility of bringing her back. its not the predictor but the hull is the same, just a bowrider, which i like.

I currenly have a fleet... 1985 Commodore 360, 2003 Cobalt 282 (great boat), 2003 Seadoo and the 1981 Checkmate Enticer

I appreciate any and all advice given and the previous links to some restoration posts have been extremely helpful despite photobucket being a terd.

 

[adrenaline_junkie]

nice looking enticer! i love the all metalflake.

hate to be the bearer of potentially bad news, but based on seeing it sitting wet like that and having sat in the woods, i would plan on replacing all the wood above the hull, and taking a really close look at the core while you have it stripped, i bet the transom is rotted and youd be real lucky if at least some of the core isnt soft. On the plus side, the more rotted it is, the easier it will be to strip, and its really not all that much work, I did my floors (they were just exposed ply from the factory), transom, and a couple big chunks of core. Seemed like a lot, but wasnt all that bad in total hours, or price.

Tons of good info on how to do everything on this forum, you can easily be ready for spring!

not the most expert or best written resto and spread across a few threats, but heres some pics of my process so you can see how it goes on an enticer
http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9948
http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/blog.php?u=15413
http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11748

Do you have photos of the bow seats and how they are constructed.