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08 2100 with 08 300xs no power out of hole

12pack

12pack

Active member
Ok fellas so I bought this boat sight unseen over a year ago, problem is it has no holeshot. I am running 10.5 setback, roughly 2" below pad with the plate all the way up, with a 1.75 TM and 25p trophy plus. Boat has 72 hrs on it, and 61 hrs when I purchased it. It has been too 4 different Merc techs in it's lifetime trying to figure out the issue. Perfect leak down, Merc has replaced coils and pcm trying to figure this out. This last tech has over 50hrs on troubleshooting this problem and now Merc is telling me it is what it is. I'm now looking into putting it on a Dyno somewhere. Any suggestions or help would be great.
 
Just shooting from the hip here but, to get on plane do you need to gradually/slowly bring the throttle on and let rpm's build? Also, I'm guessing you don't have any vent holes in the trophy? If the answers are yes and yes, you might have a prop issue not an engine issue. I had what sounds like the identical problem with my 250 Pro XS on my ranger when I first got my 24P bravo 1 fs prop. No hole shot at all...I'd got WOT and RPMs wouldn't climb past 2000...just bog out. The only way I could get on plane was raise the jack plate all the way and gradually let the RPMs build. I think it took me 20-30 seconds to get on plane. When I finally got around to pulling the solid plugs it was like a brand new motor. The Opti's don't make any torque until they climb into the RPM's...if you need some props to play with let me know.

Interestingly, my G2 absolutely rips out of the hole...it makes waaaaaay more torque at the bottom of the rpm band than the opti's.

Just my two cents and maybe an easy fix? A lot of the Merc techs around know the optis but don't know anything about how to set up a boat for hole shot or top end. Not trying to insult anyone here either, just trying to start at the easiest place to begin.
 
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The new bravo 1 XS props actually have 8 vent holes now for the bass boat fellas to get out of the hole.
 
Sam I am said:
Just shooting from the hip here but, to get on plane do you need to gradually/slowly bring the throttle on and let rpm's build? Also, I'm guessing you don't have any vent holes in the trophy? If the answers are yes and yes, you might have a prop issue not an engine issue. I had what sounds like the identical problem with my 250 Pro XS on my ranger when I first got my 24P bravo 1 fs prop. No hole shot at all...I'd got WOT and RPMs wouldn't climb past 2000...just bog out. The only way I could get on plane was raise the jack plate all the way and gradually let the RPMs build. I think it took me 20-30 seconds to get on plane. When I finally got around to pulling the solid plugs it was like a brand new motor. The Opti's don't make any torque until they climb into the RPM's...if you need some props to play with let me know.

Interestingly, my G2 absolutely rips out of the hole...it makes waaaaaay more torque at the bottom of the rpm band than the opti's.

Just my two cents and maybe an easy fix? A lot of the Merc techs around know the optis but don't know anything about how to set up a boat for hole shot or top end. Not trying to insult anyone here either, just trying to start at the easiest place to begin.
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I have 4 vent holes in this 25p trophy plus and it must be a smaller hub cause I got an exhaust ring and different plugs last fall and started playing with that, I have found it slips really bad or bogs bad and even worse under load.. I have tried a21p and a23 just barely and had better results but shouldn't a 25 trophy be a good combo? Especially for a 1.75?
 
12pack said:
I have 4 vent holes in this 25p trophy plus and it must be a smaller hub cause I got an exhaust ring and different plugs last fall and started playing with that, I have found it slips really bad or bogs bad and even worse under load.. I have tried a21p and a23 just barely and had better results but shouldn't a 25 trophy be a good combo? Especially for a 1.75?
Click to expand...

Trophy's are usually winner's on Pulsares...not all of them, but most of them. I think the hub issue is affecting your performance, but I would think it would spin out, not bog. That's weird. I'm close and have props if you wanna play around some time...lemme know.
 
I had our Pulsare, with a 250 ProXs, out yesterday, we have 15 inches of setback and I had a tempest plus 25 pitch worked to a 26, with the jack plate all the way up, and the holeshot was excellent, pinning you in the seat. The prop has three small squared and tapered vent holes which allows the prop to blow out a little. But with two onboard all you to do is start trimming out until the boat maxed out of RPM's at 76MPH. I find it hard to believe a 300 woudl not blow out almost any prop. Of course just my opinion.

Good luck
Chuck
 
I appreciate the offer Sam, I've got this 23 pitch on now but not allot of time to play with it. It's a laser plus 3 blade with 3 pvs holes. It had all open plugs in it at first. Slipped really bad out of hole so I put one solid plug in still slipped pretty good but haven't got as much time as I'd like with this 23 yet. I should be able to run a 25-27 pitch without slipping out of the hole but also still have holeshot, correct?
 
Get rid of the exhaust ring. I had the same problem when I had an exhaust ring and a 26 trophy. I also think your going to need a larger prop, my 26 is a little small for the 250XS so I'm looking to go up to either a 26 Bravo FX or a 27 trophy
 
12pack said:
I appreciate the offer Sam, I've got this 23 pitch on now but not allot of time to play with it. It's a laser plus 3 blade with 3 pvs holes. It had all open plugs in it at first. Slipped really bad out of hole so I put one solid plug in still slipped pretty good but haven't got as much time as I'd like with this 23 yet. I should be able to run a 25-27 pitch without slipping out of the hole but also still have holeshot, correct?
Click to expand...

You may slip a bit with the taller wheels, but I think that's to be expected. But it should still climb outta the hole pretty well.
 
What setback bracket are you running?

I have a CMC hyd jackplate that is 10" on my 2100br with a 250xs 1.75 ratio 20" mid TM on it, so nearly identical to you. My motor is mounted high on the bracket so the propshaft centre line is even with the pad at the top of the travel.

I run a DAH worked 27pitch Trophy plus that the boat came with and I had issues with holeshot too. The boat dragged coming out of the hole and airated the prop a bunch just as it started to come on plane. pulling tubes and wakeboards with the boat was very difficult. First is started plugging the holes in the prop, then I bought a rubber ring to take up the space between the small prop hub and the rear of the bullet. None of this helped much, and the rubber ring disappeared after one use.

Then to pull tubes I bought a 23P Trophy plus, plugged all the holes and it helped a reasonable amount. However running the motor 3/4 or more of the way down on the jackplate really did not seem to provide the push I thought the boat should have.

I had noticed that while comming out of the hole, water would shoot up the inside of the jackplate. This was because the design has two large flat areas to mount the motor that are perpendicular to the travel direction of the boat that drag in the water anytime the jackplate is down more than halfway and the bow of the boat is raised like when trying to come on plane.

I decided to do something about this drag in the water and the results were wonderful. I really don't need a 23 pitch prop to tube anymore, the 27P works OK pulling tubes now. And the boat runs really well everywhere with 2-6 people on that prop if I'm not pulling anything.

I figured there were two ways to solve the problem, I picked one of the ways and that was to remove some of the lower part of the flat surface. I worked great. I'd post pictures but photobucket are idiots and that's not happening.
 
I ran it without exhuast ring last year. I don't think I've got a prop issue. I'm almost positive this is an engine issue.
 
Sam I am said:
Kazrus, did you go with the plate on the bottom?
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I would have but did not find one on CMC's site, so figured I would have to build my own. To do it right the bottom plate would of needed to pivot at the front and slide at the rear for the jackplate to travel, so I did a simpler solution and just removed the bottom 4"-4.5" or so of the offending material from the jackplate.

Basically on each side( it's in two pieces back there) of the rear of the plate, I drilled a 2" hole in the plate about 3" up from the bottom and then cut from the edge of the circle down to the bottom of the plate and from the other edge of the circle horizontally to vertical edge of the plate. This removes two 4" x 4" pieces that drag in the water till the boat is on plane or the plate is at the top of travel.

It really made a noticeable improvement in holeshot on my boat, and a world of difference when pulling tubes.
 
ckaluger said:
I had our Pulsare, with a 250 ProXs, out yesterday, we have 15 inches of setback and I had a tempest plus 25 pitch worked to a 26, with the jack plate all the way up, and the holeshot was excellent, pinning you in the seat. The prop has three small squared and tapered vent holes which allows the prop to blow out a little. But with two onboard all you to do is start trimming out until the boat maxed out of RPM's at 76MPH. I find it hard to believe a 300 woudl not blow out almost any prop. Of course just my opinion.

Good luck
Chuck
Click to expand...

Are you running a tm lower also? Gear ratio?
 
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I see the one picture that matters so...

I'd remount the motor on the jackplate up 2" so that the prop shaft is even with the pad at the top of the travel that's how my boat came set up from Roberts Marine.

I find I don't use the very bottom of the travel of my jackplate anyway as having the prop 5" down when starting out or tubing is too low. I do all my starts with the prop about 3 -4" below the pad and raise it from there as the boat accelerates. That's also about where I set it for tubing. So I think you are too low if you do your starts with the jackplate all the way down as you will be about 7" below the pad at your current set up.

I hope my discriprition of my modification to the jackplate made sense, as you will also benefit by removing the bottom 4-5 " of flat area that drags in the water.

Maybe you have a motor issue too, but you still have these two set up issues to clear up IMO.
 
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