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2800SX Outboard Restoration Begins!!!

JUPITER PULSARE

Well-known member
Last day of dirty work before heading to the shop for new headliner and hull liner. I had to reseal the bow rail hardware, sand some old glue off the hull sides, remove a bunch of old staples, and do some general cleaning.
 

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JUPITER PULSARE

Well-known member
Where did you get it from? Looks like a nice piece.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CC4QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.themarineconnection.net%2F&ei=4mA4UqeHH4269gS75YGQAQ&usg=AFQjCNFQBsrG5kvklm_bSV88Ii7F-W9e0w&sig2=orrsnsiTZQbE63mkZymiyQ&bvm=bv.52164340,d.eWU

I paid $145.00 for the framed door. They have about 8 more. They were built for Mako Marine and must be from a discontinued model...They're not the cheapest but they have tons of stuff...it's like a boat builders heaven once inside their warehouse!! lol
 

JUPITER PULSARE

Well-known member
Nice little addition to the big Checkmate..some IMCO polished stainless steel wingplates to replace the chrome plated ones on the boat now!
 

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ckaluger

Well-known member
I have a pair of Polk 6x9's under the seat of the Pulsare and it has enough kick that I have held off with a subwoofer. I was amazed, the last 6x9 speakers I had were called "Mindblowers" and were in the rear deck of one of my tow vehicles, a 4-door 1968 Chevy Impala with a 2 speed power glide transmission!!!!

Chuck
 

dream4ta

Well-known member
Do you mind if i ask where you got the switch plates from? I have been thinking of putting some new ones in the Enforcer and those plates would match my pretty new wheel quite will it looks like!
 

JUPITER PULSARE

Well-known member
So after 2 1/2 years of getting my 2800SX Outboard on the water, the third and final phase of my ressurection will begin. This monday the twin 2.4L Mercs will be removed. An aluminum plate will be manufactured to bolt to my existing Gil Race brackets so I can spread the new 2.5L Mercs from 18" centers to 24" centers. This will make the boat more user friendly around the docks and allow me to use factory water proof cowls, pans AND skirts. I will also be changing the steering setup on the motors. The biggest decision to make will be using 20" or 25" mids. Even with the 25" mid, at idle and the highest setting on the clamp, the pans get splashed pretty good with 24" of setback. I could gain more top end speed by using 20" mids but the motor pans would be dragging through the water at idle...
 
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Instigator

Well-known member
Both of my 24' sonics came w/20's and I converted both to 25's.
If you really use it for a boat/weekender in changing seas I wouldn't consider 20's.
I also, much prefer the look of the powerheads being 5" higher for the looks of the rig on a bigger hull like that.
 

JUPITER PULSARE

Well-known member
Preliminary fabrication pics of my 7/8" thick, T6061 transom plate. Motors will spread to 24" centers and raised to get me as much as 2.5" above the bottom. 1/2" counter sunk bolts hold the plate to the Gil Brackets. The plate will be trimmed of excess material once I mount and mark the clamp bracket location. Then I'll send the plate out for Powdercoat. Should I go with black powdercoat...or maybe red to spice things up? I also have all new black rigging hose and some nice red anodized rigging tube hardware!
 

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RNGRDVE

Well-known member
I think red may look out of place that far off the transom. Get red and black poster boards from the store. Cheap enough to tapeon and stand back and see what you think.
 
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