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cracked transom glass

mouse4x4

Active member
i have a 85 enchanter that i just bought it has a crack in the transom on port side between horse head an ski eye i am sure the wood is a little damp i wont get home till june 11th to see first hand. Dad looked at it before he bought with motor on transom had zero flex even the crack didnt open any. i plan on a full rebuild this fall an winter as the floor has a soft spot around ski locker also i am just wanting to keep it from cracking worse this summer. Can i grind it out from the outside an glass it back useing steped layers then grind out smooth never done glass work where the finish had to be paintable with shine an smoothness lol. give me some ideas here i know the #1 would be replace transom that will come after this season.IMG952013052595122949.jpg
 
If you're just planning on running it and don't care what it looks like, route the crack out with a dremel to 1/8" or so with rounded ends on the cracks and fill in with some 3M 4200 or 5200 sealant. Fix it later. I'd be awful certain there isn't any movement in the transom first time out though.....
 
yea i am going to check it out good when i get home i am not sure about the 5200 route then i have to fight that stuff later i figured if i glass it for a perminent fix on the out side that would be done at that point then when i pull transom out glass inside an it is a permenet fix
 
yea i am going to check it out good when i get home i am not sure about the 5200 route then i have to fight that stuff later i figured if i glass it for a perminent fix on the out side that would be done at that point then when i pull transom out glass inside an it is a permenet fix


IMO, that will never hold. You want to layer inside the boat vs outside for aesthetics... if you simply fill the crack with resin it's just gonna crack again. If you're going to redo the transom later, 5200 comes off just fine with a router or gritty sandpaper/grinder. 4200 is also a good waterproofing substance.
 
yea i see what you are saying i guess i will just have to wait an see what and see what it looks like when i get home for my self an make a decision then
 
I replied to your PM, but agree with Badbk after seeing the pictures. That needs to be repaired from the inside, then grind the outside and build that area level with CSM. That's if you're going to paint or gel coat. I would drill some small holes on the inside in that area maybe 1/4" deep to check the transom. I would bet with a crack that size the transom is shot.
 
yea i will check it out when i get home i was hopeing to get by this summer with it then dig in to it deep this fall an winter as i only have like 3 weeks off through the whole boating season :brickwall: thats why i was just looking for something to do to keep the crack from getting worse so i figured glass on the out side would have ok for now
 
Well my buddy got home an checked the crack out he said the glass is solid behind the crack that it looks like just the gel coat cracked what would cause that
 
I agree with what everyone else said. I would take every step possible to make sure it is capable of supporting an engine before taking the risk of losing it. Like BK said, I wouldn't glass it in right now, if you are going to use it (after making damn certain the engine will still be on the boat after the ride). The crack was caused by movement/flex and if you just glass in the crack, there will still be movement. The glass repair will just crack again, where the 5200 will have a little give and keep you water tight for the time being. My 2 cents
 
Ok well i will have to get home an see what the deal is with it first hand an figure it out then. I got 7 more days an i will get to see what it is first hand
 
I hate to be that guy, but......

There's no way I'd put that boat in the drink. That transom needs a full rehab before I would trust it to even hold the motor on sitting in the driveway. It's way beyond a gelcoat crack, its all the way through the fiberglass skin. Judging by the green mold dripping from the bottom of the crack, the transom is shot, shot, shot. I'd also recommend converting your trailer to bunks instead of rollers. Notice that the crack is directly above the rear-most roller on the trailer.

Fix it once, fix it right, and enjoy your Checkmate for a few more decades!:cheers: It's worth fixing the right way.
 
Well like i said i will have to check it out when i get home if it is soft an flexly i will tear into it now if it dosent flex it is getting road till fall, there are no stress cracks any where is the splash well the metal molding on top of transom is not bent or deformed any an when my dad went an picked it up for me it had a motor on it trimed all the way up he cold pivit the boat up an down the transom had no flex he said. Now i am geting all this second hand so like i said before i get home tuesday i will investigate weather i am drinking beer on it floating or drinking beer on it sweating an itching, either way i am drinking beer lol
 
Wildman is totally correct. That brown color comes from the wet wood. The body filler used to bond the wood to the glass doesn't leave a colored stain like that.

If you value your investment and your safety and intend keeping this boat you need to replace the wood in the transom and repair the glass.

My transom looked strong, didn't move when I stood on the cav plate but when I did the inspection then resto the wood was saturated and smelled from the rotting process that had begun. I made a temp repair of the floor thinking I could get a season out of it before repairs and that was the wrong thing to do and waste of time.

No, I didn't have any problems because I made the proper repairs.

Look it over carefully and decide wisely. Good luck with your project.
 
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