• Welcome to the Checkmate Community Forums forums.

    You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions, articles and access to our other FREE features.
    By joining our free community you will be able to:

    » Interact with over 10,000 Checkmate Fanatics from around the world!
    » Post topics and messages
    » Post and view photos
    » Communicate privately with other members
    » Access our extensive gallery of old Checkmate brochures located in our Media Gallery
    » Browse the various pictures in our Checkmate photo gallery

    Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

    If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support by clicking here or by using the"contact us" link at the bottom of the page.

Installing a L.E.D. Pop-Up Navigation Light

hotdaddy27

Well-known member
This is my install process of an ACCON LED Nav. Light. It is a fairly simple process, although cutting a 3-1/2" hole in the deck of your boat is not an easy thing to come to grips with.

The first step was to remove the forward bulk-head to provide access. I had to disconnect the speakers and pull the wiring to get the bulk-head out. This allowed me to snip the power/ground wires going to the existing navigation light.
 

Attachments

  • 20130127_113703.jpg
    20130127_113703.jpg
    20.9 KB · Views: 58
  • 20130127_114535.jpg
    20130127_114535.jpg
    31.2 KB · Views: 59

hotdaddy27

Well-known member
Next I removed the two screws from the existing nav. light and pulled it off.
 

Attachments

  • 20130127_135723.jpg
    20130127_135723.jpg
    23.2 KB · Views: 27
  • 20130127_153925.jpg
    20130127_153925.jpg
    18.8 KB · Views: 28

hotdaddy27

Well-known member
Then I made a template of the outside of the new nav. light (forgot to take a pic of the template). I found centerline and marked it, and then found centerline in relationship to the 3-1/2" hole saw called for in the directions. None: CL of the light and CL of the opening are not the same.

I drew a line in pencil from the CL of the front cleat to the CL of the nose of the boat and lined up the Template.

Placed painter's tape over the area to be drilled to prevent chipping and drilled a pilot hole. After drilling a pilot hole I went in the boat two or three different times to make sure I was OK to drill the BIG ONE!
 

Attachments

  • 20130127_161444.jpg
    20130127_161444.jpg
    26.1 KB · Views: 21
  • 20130127_161547.jpg
    20130127_161547.jpg
    22 KB · Views: 21

hotdaddy27

Well-known member
Time to drill! I purchased a brand new hole saw although I had one in inventory. I wanted a nice clean, effortless cut and that is what I got.

If cutting into the deck of your baby with a 3-1/2" hole saw doesn't pucker your cheeks you are a better man than I.

I wanted to move the hole aft a bit, but the color variation and imprint from the existing light did not allow me to. I hope there is room for the bezel!
 

Attachments

  • 20130127_162803.jpg
    20130127_162803.jpg
    32.5 KB · Views: 15
  • 20130127_162859.jpg
    20130127_162859.jpg
    27.9 KB · Views: 16

hotdaddy27

Well-known member
Time to get the blood pressure back to normal!
 

Attachments

  • 20130127_162859.jpg
    20130127_162859.jpg
    27.9 KB · Views: 15
  • 20130127_163502.jpg
    20130127_163502.jpg
    46.6 KB · Views: 18
  • 20130127_163438.jpg
    20130127_163438.jpg
    42.6 KB · Views: 22

hotdaddy27

Well-known member
The new light and the drain cup.
 

Attachments

  • 20130127_163138.jpg
    20130127_163138.jpg
    27.3 KB · Views: 33
  • 20130127_163104.jpg
    20130127_163104.jpg
    28.8 KB · Views: 32

hotdaddy27

Well-known member
Here is what the light looks like just sitting in place. It is just laying there, so there is room to center it if the picture appears off center.

The deck is not totally flat, so I am hoping that a bezel will "flex" into shape where as the stainless steel frame of the light will not, leaving a gap on the sides.

Next I will wire, connect the drain tubes to the cleat drainage and fasten. Before I can fasten down, I need to install bezels (yes bezelS, becasue I have to make the cleats match the light now $$$)
 

Attachments

  • 20130127_163252.jpg
    20130127_163252.jpg
    23.8 KB · Views: 52
  • 20130127_163316.jpg
    20130127_163316.jpg
    27.6 KB · Views: 50

RNGRDVE

Well-known member
Looks great Hot Mama. I was thinking about doing that on my Starfire but being so cheap I will probably just purchase a standard light.
 

Kurtster

Well-known member
Time to get the blood pressure back to normal!

Oh boy I know that feeling......
That pop up is gonna look really kool ----- should've done that on my restoration {woulda / shoulda / coulda}.

Do you know what the view distance is for that LED --- maybe 3 to 5 nm ?
 

hotdaddy27

Well-known member
Oh boy I know that feeling......
That pop up is gonna look really kool ----- should've done that on my restoration {woulda / shoulda / coulda}.

Do you know what the view distance is for that LED --- maybe 3 to 5 nm ?

They state USCG approved for 2 NM's.

HD
 

CHECK16

Well-known member
Looking great HD. Hows the saying go...measure twice cut once? How many times did you measure?

No lie.
I had mine taped up and marked out for 2 days before i drilled. I must have walked out to the garage 10 times checking it from different angles to make sure it was centered.
Once that hole saw digs in there is no turning back.:)
 

hotdaddy27

Well-known member
Update: Got a bezel template from Eddie Marine, and it is too tight to fit.

I am going to use Clear RTV Silicone to seal any gaps (when I say gap I am talking a 1/32" gap on the sides only).

I will take some pics when I make some progress this w/e.

HD
 
Top