I recently purchased a new jackplate, from this board, and plan to install it this spring on my 2001 Pulse 185 running an XR6 Mercury. The jackplate is the standard CMC manual. I realize I probably won’t see a big gain on the top end; I mainly want it for the adjustability. My question is: will I need to install a water pressure gauge? I don’t think my motor will be that far out of the water even with the jackplate all the way up. My boat is equipped with a temperature gauge and if the motor starts to get hot I will know it. Isn’t that the main reason people install a water pressure gauge, to make sure the motor is getting water and staying cool?
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Jackplate/Water Pressure Gauge
- Thread starter Drex
- Start date
I recently purchased a new jackplate, from this board, and plan to install it this spring on my 2001 Pulse 185 running an XR6 Mercury. The jackplate is the standard CMC manual. I realize I probably won’t see a big gain on the top end; I mainly want it for the adjustability. My question is: will I need to install a water pressure gauge? I don’t think my motor will be that far out of the water even with the jackplate all the way up. My boat is equipped with a temperature gauge and if the motor starts to get hot I will know it. Isn’t that the main reason people install a water pressure gauge, to make sure the motor is getting water and staying cool?
Drex, you didn't mention the amount of setback you are going to have. But I'll bet you might be surprised at just how much top end you may gain.
A water pressure guage tells you when your motor isn't getting enough water. Sometimes when the temp guage starts going up it's already running too hot. With the pressure guage you know right away before your motor starts heating up that you need to make an adjustment.
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A water pressure guage tells you when your motor isn't getting enough water. Sometimes when the temp guage starts going up it's already running too hot. With the pressure guage you know right away before your motor starts heating up that you need to make an adjustment.
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Install a water pressure gauge. Chris is right on the money. When the temp goes up on the gauge it will more than likly be to late.
1975 Checkmate Tri-mate 2, 2.4 200+ / Sky jacker 6" plate / 25p Laser 2 prop, Currently the boat is undergoing overhaul.
1975 Checkmate Tri-mate 2, 2.4 200+ / Sky jacker 6" plate / 25p Laser 2 prop, Currently the boat is undergoing overhaul.
You'll no doubt start playing with engine heights to see where the sweet spot is for your current prop. I had the Pulse 171, and I think the transom was the same as your 185. I was able to raise my XR6 up high enough to get the water intake out into the air! My pressure gauge would fluxuate wildly. I strongly recommend you get a pressure gauge. The temp gauge plays a secondary role to the pressure gauge.
Checkmates owned: 1995 Pulsare 2100BR/1995 Mercury Promax 225 2.5 EFI. 1995 Persuader 183/4.3 LX V6. 1992 Pulse 171/1992 Mercury XR6 150 hp 2.5 liter.
Checkmates owned: 1995 Pulsare 2100BR/1995 Mercury Promax 225 2.5 EFI. 1995 Persuader 183/4.3 LX V6. 1992 Pulse 171/1992 Mercury XR6 150 hp 2.5 liter.
supergenius74
Member
Does anyone know how to install a water pressure guage on an old johnson v4 ? I want to put one on mine but can't seem to figure out where or how to do it. My engine does not have any "water bypass" hoses to tap into so I imaging that drilling and tapping into the block somewhere is the only option. Does anyone know where or the safest method for doing this?
There should be a 1/4" pipe plug on the top of one of the cylender banks... Look for any small screw in "plug"... carefully pull it out. If you can see water jacket...you can use that spot. If in dought, pull the plug and start it up on a hose for a second or two...water will be shooting out if it...hook up the pressuse gauge there. Jim.
FYI...TEMP GAUGES only work if cooling WATER is flowing over the sender!!! If the motor is starving for water, chances are the sender isn't reading anything except the metal temp it's screwed into. If it reads hot running the motor high up on the jack...you probably already roasted the motor (rings for sure)!
Thats why low-water pickup nose cones work so well...allows higher engine heights & keeps the cooling system feed with water (also helps pick up some MPH do to the hydro-dynamic shape of the nose cone...usually 2-5 MPH with cone & motor height). One final note...you will also be needing a bigger pitch prop or better "cupping"...higher engine height means more slip if the prop is not "surfacing" design... AND higher engine height usually has less torque steer and less "chine-walk" effect.
FYI...TEMP GAUGES only work if cooling WATER is flowing over the sender!!! If the motor is starving for water, chances are the sender isn't reading anything except the metal temp it's screwed into. If it reads hot running the motor high up on the jack...you probably already roasted the motor (rings for sure)!
Thats why low-water pickup nose cones work so well...allows higher engine heights & keeps the cooling system feed with water (also helps pick up some MPH do to the hydro-dynamic shape of the nose cone...usually 2-5 MPH with cone & motor height). One final note...you will also be needing a bigger pitch prop or better "cupping"...higher engine height means more slip if the prop is not "surfacing" design... AND higher engine height usually has less torque steer and less "chine-walk" effect.
F150GT
Member
I put a water PSI gauge in a freinds older v6 Evinrude (1979) There were no water ports on the engine, I ended up drilling and tapping a port on the top of the block (SCARY) It worked out fine.
Caution with low water pick-ups, I have seen several motors overheated and blown up with low pick-ups, obviously they pick up there water at the bottom of the gear case and WILL pick up large amounts of mud and silt if run in low water depths. Some models will plug up with seaweed very easily, this is a problem in many of the small lakes we run in. They are good for getting excessive engine height but like most performance parts, they have there draw backs and increased precautions.
Nose cones will not add much advantage unless your running over 75+ were blow out becomes a problem. Unless your at the upper end of the speed spectrum, I would not recamend a low water nose cone.(but they look so cool)
F150GT
Caution with low water pick-ups, I have seen several motors overheated and blown up with low pick-ups, obviously they pick up there water at the bottom of the gear case and WILL pick up large amounts of mud and silt if run in low water depths. Some models will plug up with seaweed very easily, this is a problem in many of the small lakes we run in. They are good for getting excessive engine height but like most performance parts, they have there draw backs and increased precautions.
Nose cones will not add much advantage unless your running over 75+ were blow out becomes a problem. Unless your at the upper end of the speed spectrum, I would not recamend a low water nose cone.(but they look so cool)
F150GT
I will be doing a test in the up comming months. I am going to rig the boat and test. Get a base line with standard 200 nose. Then I will be installing a Bob's nose cone with low water pick up's. We'll see if there is a differance. F150GT, I am hoping to get into the "upper end of the speed spectrum"
supergenius74
Member
i still can't find a place to connect a guage to. Has anyone tried a transom mounted water pickup? seems like that would be the cheapest and easiest route to go. I always used them on my RC boats and they worked fine. I'm not sure If I am up to the challenge of cutting and replacing the front part of a lower unit. Anyways I think i will post some pics of my motor and maybe someone can point out where on it I should connect to. I'm capable of drill and tapping an engine block but only if im completely sure of where to do it at.
supergenius, send me a few shots of the powerhead. a back, right and left. I'll see if I can help.
The nose cone fits over the front of the nose on the loser unit. It is then epoxyed in and blended. I extends the front of the cone.
The nose cone fits over the front of the nose on the loser unit. It is then epoxyed in and blended. I extends the front of the cone.
supergenius74
Member
oh man do i feel stupid. All the pictures i've seen looked like they replaced the front of the lower unit. Thats not so bad i guess, it will be interesting to see your results. I will send you pics tonite when i get home from work. thanks again gus.