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New Wisconsin Member

TMR

Active member
Hello, I have been a member of this forum for about 3 months. I have posted a few times asking for advice so I thought it was time to do a proper introduction.

I purchased a used Pulsare 2100 BR late last summer with a 225EFI Mercury 2 stroke. I have some boating and outboard motor experience but I am new to performance boating. My Dad had a 16ft Ski/fish boat when I was growing up. Many good memories waterskiing and fishing. I am not much of a fisherman these days but I love just being on the water on a summer day.

I have been fond of Checkmate boats since I was a kid. A neighbor down the block had one, not sure which model, but I thought it was the coolest looking boat every time I saw it. Looked fast just sitting on the trailer!

I am really looking forward to summer time and getting the boat on the water with my family. It is winter in Wisconsin so no boating this time of year.

Currently our boat tops out at 63mph on the speedometer at 5600rpm. The boat has a 5 1/2” CMC manual jack plate. I am running a 23 pitch Trophy Plus prop with large diameter PVS plugs. Our boat seems to get on plane well and handle pretty well also going straight and through turns. I wish I would have taken my GPS with the one and only time we got out in the boat this year. Many rainy weekends prevented us from getting out more.

My goal for the boat is to get into the 70 plus mph range but still be able to ski and tube and have a good all-around boat for the family.

I am considering buying a 10” setback hydraulic jack plate in the future. As of right now, I am planning to install a water pressure gauge and raise the motor a bit on the manual jack plate. I have sent my Trophy Plus prop out for touch up, balancing, and reworking the pitch to act like a 24 pitch when on plane.

Kip at Checkmate is helping me out with the purchase of new seat skins for in the bow where the seams have started to split. I would like to replace all the skins in the interior possibly next year. The original seats are starting to show their age.

The hull and floor look to be solid and in good shape. I am planning to have a local boat shop work on repairing the lower portion of my transom this spring. It appears that possibly a small amount water sat in bilge area by the drain plug and made the wood soft on the transom by the plug. The local shop thought they could chisel out the soft wood from inside the bilge area and replace it with new wood, fiberglass, and a new drain plug tube without disturbing the gelcoat. The rest of the transom seems solid when I trim the motor up and down and apply force to the motor. I hope there isn’t more damage lurking in the transom once the local shop gets into the repair.

My primary focus for this year is identifying and fixing problems that will affect us using and enjoying the boat this coming summer.

I am glad to be a member of this community. I will try to post a couple pictures of our boat.
 
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Beautiful boat, I loved my 2100BR. Mind had the 2.5 liter 225 Promax on a 6" jackplate when I bought it from the original owner, spinning a 23" Tempest that has some work done to it. It ran 68 GPS at 1,000' elevation.
I ordered a factory bow cover, and the weekend I received it from CMate I pulled the boat from the lift and installed the bow cover and at the same time a 10" Jack plate, replacing the 6". No other changes done to the boat, it then ran 74 mph on GPS.
Your 3.0 is heavier than my old 2.5, and it has more low end torque. I'd say do the easy stuff first, try a 25" Tempest Plus and/or a same size Trophy Plus. New, not tampered with. See what happens. Make sure the bow cover is installed and tight.
If you do the 10" plate, you'll want to add a planing plate to the bottom to keep it from 'bucketing' water when not on plane.
I liked to run my propshaft 4" below the pad as I used it for a lot of tubing and skiing.
 
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Thank you for the advice JW. I really do appreciate it.

The planing plate that you refer to, is it like this stabilizing plate from Bob’s Machine?
https://bobsmachine.com/product/true-tracker-stabilizer-plate-3-0l-merc/

No, all I’m referring to is an aluminum plate you bolt to the bottom of the jack plate to close off (mostly) the large open area of the plate. If you bend a slight angle down to the back of the closeout, it acts a little as a planing aid.
 
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Does anyone have a picture of the planing plate that installs on the bottom of the jack plate? I want to make one and install on my 5 1/2” set back CMC jack plate. Pictures are appreciated.
Thanks
 
Does anyone have a picture of the planing plate that installs on the bottom of the jack plate? I want to make one and install on my 5 1/2” set back CMC jack plate. Pictures are appreciated.
Thanks

Mine was just a piece of aluminum, maybe 0.080, cut to the size of the bottom of the jack plate. The bottom of the jack plate was drilled and tapped a few places on either side and the aluminum was simply screwed to it with six machine screws. You want to leave a gap at the bottom rear so water trapped inside the jack plate assembly can run out. The flat bottom of the plate will keep water from rushing up inside the plate and ‘bucketing’ during hole-shot.
I’ll see if I have any pictures of it, might take a while.
 
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