• Welcome to the Checkmate Community Forums forums.

    You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions, articles and access to our other FREE features.
    By joining our free community you will be able to:

    » Interact with over 10,000 Checkmate Fanatics from around the world!
    » Post topics and messages
    » Post and view photos
    » Communicate privately with other members
    » Access our extensive gallery of old Checkmate brochures located in our Media Gallery
    » Browse the various pictures in our Checkmate photo gallery

    Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

    If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support by clicking here or by using the"contact us" link at the bottom of the page.

Sagging outdrive

C

cyclenut80

New member
I just bought an 84' Ambassador with the 260hp 5.7l and alpha one outdrive. I've noticed over the past couple days that the drive keeps sagging. You can run it up and down just fine but after you leave it in the full up position it sags about half way down over the course of a couple days. Any ideas what causes this? Its sort of acting like its low on fluid but I have no idea where or how to even check it. I don't see any obvious leaks so I'm guessing its something internal like a check valve or o-ring.
 
It's normal 'old engine' wear. My 135 outboard does the same thing. The only way to fix the hydraulics is replacing some seals. If you can run your drive all the way up and down without the pump cavitating, you're not low on oil.
 
Hey thanks for the reply my only question is do you think this will affect the performance of the boat in the water? I notice the drive only seems to sag to the point of max trim. As in if you have it in the full up trailering position it will sag to the full up trim position. I guess this means that there are two seperate hydraulic circuts. You guys know much more about this than I do. Thanks for the help!
 
May or may not hurt performance. I had an XR2 that slowly sagged over time when sitting idle. Unfortunately, when running hard, it sagged a LOT faster. So I had to bump the trim 'up' button every half minute or so to keep it up where I wanted. That got old fast.
 
my 200 merc black max does this same thing when at idle for a li' while. wasn't sure if i should add some fluid or not . is this the same w/ an outboard?
 
Any evidence of hydrolic fluid at the ends of the hydrolic pistons? Or in the engine compartment around the pump and reservoir?

If not you could have either air in the lines(not sure if this is a self bleeding system) or bad seals in the pump allowing the fluid to flow back into the reservoir.
 
this is caused by a bad check valve in the pump '

there is only one hydraulic circut
the unit is wired with a trim limit switch that you have to hit the trailer button to override

the only way to fix leaking down is to buy a new pump

sorry for the bad news

you can buy locks for the trim cylinders to hold the drive up for trailering
at most marine stores and like overtons

if it is leaking one way ot will not be long before it leaks underway
so you will keep having to bump the trim to keep you steeing

good luck daren
 
  • Like
Reactions: JW
If your looking to do this yourself take the time and spend the cash for a mercruiser repair manual. Its the best money you'll spend to help you understand step by step for repairs. Repalcing the pump will probly be an easy one. Two hydrolic lines and a quick connect for the wiring and a couple of screws. Make sure when you replace the screws it would not hurt to squeeze some silicone sealent in the holes prior to inserting the screws. this will eleminate any water which makes it in to the engine compartment from getting into the foam flotation block usually found under the pump.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top