• Welcome to the Checkmate Community Forums forums.

    You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions, articles and access to our other FREE features.
    By joining our free community you will be able to:

    » Interact with over 10,000 Checkmate Fanatics from around the world!
    » Post topics and messages
    » Post and view photos
    » Communicate privately with other members
    » Access our extensive gallery of old Checkmate brochures located in our Media Gallery
    » Browse the various pictures in our Checkmate photo gallery

    Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

    If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support by clicking here or by using the"contact us" link at the bottom of the page.

Mercruiser 454 question

I would keep the silent choice and run a good header that will work with them. most have tail pipes to accommodate the silent choice.

Hey your drive reservoir looks like it might be low
 
I would keep the silent choice and run a good header that will work with them. most have tail pipes to accommodate the silent choice.

Hey your drive reservoir looks like it might be low

Stick the silent choice on the shelf I hate those things but that's all preference
 
Silent choice with no choice? you can't switch them?

I like silent choice on a low performance cruiser. If I'm not going fast I think it's more enjoyable to have the option to be able to talk over the engine running and hear the stereo.

Also where I boat on inland lakes mufflers are required they check you on the launch ramp.
When you back your boat into the water you have you start it and they check with a decibel meter if you don't pass they write you a ticket. It would pass with silent choice.
Also if it is factory equipment it's a good selling feature when you go to re-sell the boat.

So if you can't switch them and none of that means nothing to you don't use them.


MKhammer
 
Silent choice with no choice? you can't switch them?
MKhammer

= "quick and quiet" - runs exhaust through both the mufflers and the drive to let you use much quieter / more restrictive mufflers for quiet sound and still have lower backpressure since it can go both ways... also leaves some exhaust gas coming out the prop which makes vented props still useful. Actually a farily good idea. I gather that not so popular because most people who are interested in low back pressure / performance aren't so interested in quiet too... (imho).

I've got a set in the garage that were a little too long to use with the risers I wound up using.
 
= "quick and quiet" - runs exhaust through both the mufflers and the drive to let you use much quieter / more restrictive mufflers for quiet sound and still have lower backpressure since it can go both ways... also leaves some exhaust gas coming out the prop which makes vented props still useful. Actually a farily good idea. I gather that not so popular because most people who are interested in low back pressure / performance aren't so interested in quiet too... (imho).

I've got a set in the garage that were a little too long to use with the risers I wound up using.

I thought they were captain's call. I do not recognize the set up they were referred to as silent choice.
Now that I look again I don't see where any exhaust tubing runs down to the prop. If there is it's not visible in the picture. Since this is the case I would not run them especially if I was adding headers for a performance gain.
If they were true silent choice I wouldn't have a problem running them on this rig If I already had them. But I see now this isn't the case.

MKHammer
 
Hey Guys, There seems to be continuing confusion about the quick and quiet exhaust. I've done alot of research about it and I can help clear the air. At the time Corsa made four different systems.

1. Quick and Quiet
2. Quick and Quiet II
3. Quick and Quiet Plus
4. Captain's Call Quick and Quiet.

The last 2 are switchable between thru hull or prop. The first 2 however are not. They are simply muffled thru hull exhaust with a baffle between the two pipes. Like Hammer explained he saw from the photo. I think it was a factory option. I bought the boat from a guy who used it on a lake with noise restrictions. Anyway I'm determined to take it out of the boat. It'll be interesting to see how much that changes the performance.

I started a thread when I was learning about the exhaust. You can read it here http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15770
 
Is there any particular reason you want to install a heat exchanger on the engine? Since the engine doesnt already have one, the scale and build up are already in the block, chances are you will start having heating issues when the exchanger cloggs up as the debris is circulated through the engine. Engines usually fail from other issues way before a maintained raw water/heat exchanger problem arises.

As far as the exhaust set up goes, If my memory serves right that crossover is there to reduce the chance of reversion. Volvo used that for a couple of years too, maybe lakside or mk can run your sn to make sure.

As far as upgrades on that engine, i'd go with some heads/exhaust and run and run and run, the heck with the blower, unless its done correct you'll have a headache and spend more money than its worth.

or your best option.. run it the way it is and look for a 525 pull out, or buy a damaged unit from a manufacture, (fountain would be a great place to look for engines at the moment)

Just my 2 cents
 
If a factory engine is what your looking for. I sell the Hp 500 carb from mercury. If you go with much more power than this you would have to upgrade your drive. you will be pushing it with a standard bravo anyway. but I have seen the bravos stand up with this power. At one time all we had was a bravo1 to work with until the XR came out. With any upgrade to this power I would strongly recommend steering upgrades and billet trim tabs.

I could build a custom 496 long block for a little less using your core that will make the same power

I have a forum discount for this engine PM me for price if interested

http://www.mkhammer.com/store/product.php?productid=302411&cat=2912&page=1


MKHammer
 
Also have a 454 and 502 mag

The 502 Marine vortec long block is rated at 415hp.

The 454 Marine vortec long block is rated at 385 hp

Both come with water pump,oil pan,flywheel. Int. manifold exhaust,carb and ignition is needed and all other drive accessories and coolers from your engine.

PM me for forum member discount pricing.

marinecrate1-tzy8t5w3.jpg



MKHammer
 
The pictures helped a lot. Those are simply high flow corsa mufflers with a balance tube between them - if you're going to run mufflers and it isn't too lound the way it is, you probably can't do much better in terms of performance. They only have one fairly low restriction baffle in them if i remember correctly

You're right, not any of the quick and quiet or silent choice set ups...

http://www.corsaperf.com/MarineCatalogpages/Marine%20App%20Guide%2024.pdf

if you decide you're dead set against keeping them once you get them out, drop me a note, I may be interested in buying them...
 
The pictures helped a lot. Those are simply high flow corsa mufflers with a balance tube between them - if you're going to run mufflers and it isn't too lound the way it is, you probably can't do much better in terms of performance. They only have one fairly low restriction baffle in them if i remember correctly

You're right, not any of the quick and quiet or silent choice set ups...

http://www.corsaperf.com/MarineCatalogpages/Marine App Guide 24.pdf

if you decide you're dead set against keeping them once you get them out, drop me a note, I may be interested in buying them...

I've definately decided to take them out. I'll let you know when I do.
 
I realize this is a little bit of a cold thread, but I'm looking at a boat with a 454 mag (1995). It only has a through-prop exhaust, which is actually Ok for me as the kids and I are very into watersports. But eventually I'll probably be looking for some gains. I like the idea of a choice (silent, capt call, whatever..)

- Which is the best perf. / price / install tradeoff ?
- How much performance do you get - top and and lower end torque?
- Do either Lakeside or MK sell them? I'd probably install myself - or maybe drop the boat off for Jamie on my way to Pittsburgh one day.

-- Also, anything to look for on a 454 mag with 350 hours on it? I was planning on checking compression and probably having injectors cleaned (I can do it cheap at work).

Thanks guys!!!
 
needafun-
i have seen 1-2 mph with switchable exhaust, i could almost "feel" it in the boat when it was switched. i like switchable with a stock/slightly stock motor.

confirm its a 454mag, i have seen some ads that show a 454mpi that looks like a mag intake but it wasnt! so just check it out, serial numbers or whatever. some guys here may be able to identify by a photo.
fire it up if you can!
 
I realize this is a little bit of a cold thread, but I'm looking at a boat with a 454 mag (1995). It only has a through-prop exhaust, which is actually Ok for me as the kids and I are very into watersports. But eventually I'll probably be looking for some gains. I like the idea of a choice (silent, capt call, whatever..)

- Which is the best perf. / price / install tradeoff ?
- How much performance do you get - top and and lower end torque?
- Do either Lakeside or MK sell them? I'd probably install myself - or maybe drop the boat off for Jamie on my way to Pittsburgh one day.

-- Also, anything to look for on a 454 mag with 350 hours on it? I was planning on checking compression and probably having injectors cleaned (I can do it cheap at work).

Thanks guys!!!

Yes, I sell all sorts of exhaust systems & upgrades. We also install them. If you want to control the sound from the exhaust then a switchable set of diverters would be the way to go. I will say that there is not a big power increase on that alone in most boats, but it does help. Especially if you are going to build more power later.. ;)

As far as checking the engine, yes a compression test is a good idea. Also checking the fluids would be a good idea too. If you want to be extremely thorough without tearing into an engine than a leak down test could be done too, but may be overkill to do if the engine runs good, has good fluid condition & passes with a good compression test.. ;)

It would also probably be wise to check the drive over. Many people over look this. I would check the boots, & drive fluid & check the operation of the trim & drive. Also make sure you dont have a lot of slop in the steering in the gimble housing.. ;)

Jamie / Lakeside
 
Thanks guys!

It needs a new shifter boot so I'll have my merc. mech. buddy do that, the exh. bellows, gimbal and do an impeller.

I will probably wait on the switchable exhaust until I start to think about repowering in a few years. As cool as the BB rumble it, I can't spend a couple of grand for that option right now.

This guy is the original owner and said the Mag was a $4K option on that boat - I think he has the sticker, but I'll still get some pics up so you can get a look - never hurts to get another set of eyes on it.

Looks like a good well used trailer boat (never left in the water) that is in need a little TLC - and it's reflected in the price. The guy is moving and it's the typical "I just don't go that fast anymore" story.

If oil and compression look good - do you guys have any concerns about 380 hours on that motor? I've heard 800 hrs is about the start of end of life for that motor - I know it depends on use and care of the motor, but just looking for a general idea.

Also, are compression rules the same as for 2 strokes: No more than 5 to 10% variation between cylinders?

Finally - any idea how to run it in this weather? I'll be replacing the impeller in the outdrive, but somehow I think other stuff would burn up too. Probably a stupid idea...

Thanks for the advice!!
 
Back
Top