missing speed and handling

[nickhedstrom]

93 Starflite 21', 08 250xs with sporty 1.62, 4B 27 pitch hydromotive labbed ($1,100.00 prop), getting 70mph on gps at 5300, cant go any faster cause of bad chine walk, if i trim it down i get no speed, could different prop help or could the sporty lower unit be hurting the performace, tested with 1 passenger and had him move to different spots in the boat and same results. Any ideas?

 

[denis leblanc]

93 Starflite 21', 08 250xs with sporty 1.62, 4B 27 pitch hydromotive labbed ($1,100.00 prop), getting 70mph on gps at 5300, cant go any faster cause of bad chine walk, if i trim it down i get no speed, could different prop help or could the sporty lower unit be hurting the performace, tested with 1 passenger and had him move to different spots in the boat and same results. Any ideas?

Hey!! do you have a set back? a hydraulic transom jack?

I had the same problem with mine I run a pulsar 20.5 ft. with a 250 XS so I started with moving the battery and oil container on passenger side and install solid motor mounts on the engine with just that I was able to run up to 75mph and then it started chine walking after I check my hydraulic steering for tightness and fix that then I got up to 77mph and from there its all up to time behind the steering you play with the jack and trim until you find the best set-up once you determine the best set-up then you start to compensate when boat chine to the right you steer left when it chine to the left you steer to the right the faster the boat chines the faster you steer left and right until the boat is 90% out of the water then it gets easier and you should be between 80 85mph if you get scared you back of the throttle then the boat will sit and then you start over like I say it takes time lots of hrs. and then it becomes like ridding a bicycle

A 10in. set-back and a CMC hydraulic jack is a good start

Just remember get a water pressure guage and keep it at 7lbs. and do not jack to high you will get a blow

 

[kalugs22]

Funny you post this, we just ran my dad's 88 starliner today for the first time with a 250 ProXS and a 27p Labbed Trophy Plus with a torquemaster and 7.5" of setback/hydraulic jack plate. The best I could get tonight was about 5400rpm and 75-76mph. I really didn't get much chine walk at all, I ran wide open next to my buddy in his 21' pulsare for several miles. I think the 27 is to much prop for that boat, we have a 24p Fury we are going to try next and see what happens. If you don't have any setback, get some and I would do atleast 10" we are going to add more to the liner. The sporty is probably not hurting you but it's also probably not helping. I can run that torquemaster at the pad and not loose water but it can't carry the boat at that height. There's a thread on here you can search for that is all starflight/starliner speeds and setups. Good luck!

 

[nickhedstrom]

it has 5" built in to the boat, 5.5" hydr jack plate, and Bobs 6" set back bracket. The 6" set back bracket i just installed this winter and it got 5 mph faster, it used to get bad at 65 mph now its 70 mph. The motor has solid motor mounts and the steering is tight. One thing i noticed about the steering is that i cannot turn the wheel when im WOT, so when u say boat goes left turn right i cannot do it cause its too tight. That doesnt seem right does it? I have to back off the throttle to turn the wheel.

 

[nickhedstrom]

I can tell the boat wants to go cause if i have the motor tucked all the way in i only get bout 60 mph but as soon i start trimming its picks up speed quickly. The more i trim the more speed i get until it walks then i gotta back out.

 

[nickhedstrom]

Has anybody had wet foam not only in the bow but the sides towards the transom? Mine is dry in the bow but dont no bout the sides.

 

[nickhedstrom]

Would like to try a 25p or 26p 4B Trophy if i could get my hands on one.

 

[kalugs22]

What kind of height are you running it at? I noticed yesterday if i had the motor all the way down with the jp and was wound up the steering was very hard but once i raised it up it got a lot easier. I will have to measure the height off the "V" and ill let you know what it is. I'm guessing around 2.5" And yes the more trim the faster these boats go, mainly since they aren't padded they need a little more help, it was fastest when I ran the trim all the way to the stop. As far as the foam goes, you could take a hole saw and drill some test holes and see what it's like. If you don't have any rotten floor then your probably ok. It would be hard for water to find a way in to without going through the floor.

 

[atc250r]

I wish I could help you with a prop but I can say that I find when I run the propshaft around 3" below the pad or less I start to get that really tight feeling on the steering wheel but only when I try to turn left, it will go right no problem. I find I don't lose any speed when I run it at 4" so I usually just leave it there. I am running dual cable, 5.5" of set back, and a Raker 3 blade. I find the steering a lot easier when I run the 4 blade I have.

John

 

[nickhedstrom]

2" below the V, gonna try to go higher but im sure i did and didnt make much difference.

 

[nickhedstrom]

The steering is so hard at WOT that its slips, i mean the steering wheel will turn but the motor doesnt.

 

[atc250r]

On a Flight/Liner there is no point in going that high. It has no pad so it will not "fly" light a padded boat will. The prop needs the bite to lift the bow and get the hull out of the water.

 

[denis leblanc]

On a Flight/Liner there is no point in going that high. It has no pad so it will not "fly" light a padded boat will. The prop needs the bite to lift the bow and get the hull out of the water.

Yes you are right you need the prop to bite to get bow lift

 

[denis leblanc]

The steering is so hard at WOT that its slips, i mean the steering wheel will turn but the motor doesnt.

What kind of steering you have? if you are runnig dual right guide steering on the same side you will have problem to steer you need a dual right guide one on each side going down to the motor and a special bracket that goes on each side of motor this way is the only way to steer at high speed. Mine is a hydraulic steering it is like power steering and i can steer easily at any speed right or left if you do not have that set-up your speed will be 70mph the other thing you can do is get the prop to a prop shop and get it cuped up more and you can run the motor higher and get less steering drag if you can not get the steering to loosen up you will not be able to drive through the chine

 

[denis leblanc]

Would like to try a 25p or 26p 4B Trophy if i could get my hands on one.

If you have a tight steering try a 3B prop it is not as stable like a 4B prop but it may give you a loose sterring to drive through the chine a 4B prop will give you good hole shot but less mph. a 3B will give you more rpm and mph you have to find the prop that gives you the closest to the power band of the motor(6000 to 6300 rpm) sometimes less pitch will give you the rpm you are looking for with less steering drag

like I always say you want to play you have to pay ha ha!!

 

[nickhedstrom]

it is hydr. steering but not sure what your talking about with the type, the 2 hydr. hoses connect on the right side of the boat/motor. I have seen other types that 1 connects on the right and the other connects on the left. This prop was made with lots of cup in it and it does get the bow up.

 

[Philster]

Steering tends to disappear when you are too high on motor height in a V bottom boat.

The whole V is a rudder. On a flatter bottom boat, it takes less bite to steer. On various boats that skim across the surface, so can the prop. On a true V, the prop needs to get lower because it will require more bite to move that V which is in the water.

Your setup screams 'too high'. "Chine Walking a V Hull" and "My V Hull Won't Steer". In the book of "Is My Motor Too High?", it's chapters 1 & 2.

 

[denis leblanc]

it is hydr. steering but not sure what your talking about with the type, the 2 hydr. hoses connect on the right side of the boat/motor. I have seen other types that 1 connects on the right and the other connects on the left. This prop was made with lots of cup in it and it does get the bow up.

Well ok then you say you have a hydraulic steering how easy is it to steer from right to left with engine in nutral you should be able to turn with one finger if not check the cylinder at the motor bleed the system if you have to next I would try a 25p x 13 tempest plus 3b. if you have to much rpm try a 25x13.5 or a 25 x 14 and the a 26x13 ,26x 13.5 , 26 x 14 , I know its hard to find these props but if you find a prop shop that is willing to help you and he knows you will buy the prop from him once you found the wright one he will be happy to help because this is gould archives for his shop

 

[denis leblanc]

Steering tends to disappear when you are too high on motor height in a V bottom boat.

The whole V is a rudder. On a flatter bottom boat, it takes less bite to steer. On various boats that skim across the surface, so can the prop. On a true V, the prop needs to get lower because it will require more bite to move that V which is in the water.

Your setup screams 'too high'. "Chine Walking a V Hull" and "My V Hull Won't Steer". In the book of "Is My Motor Too High?", it's chapters 1 & 2.

Very good example here!! this is why you have to try different props and if you get to run your starflite 21ft. in the 80mph you will be one of the first to do it

 

[denis leblanc]

Hey man !!! its too bad you do not live close to me in Ontario Canada because I would love to help you set-up your rig to run in the 80 plus I have a place here that we can try all the props merc ever made from chopper props to cleaver props to name it we will get your boat to go beleive me and the problem is with the new engines you cant fit any prop you want because of hub size but everything can be modified

And again like I say you want to play you have to pay