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Jack Plate for 86 starflite

durango4you

durango4you

Member
First let me say hello to all, and let you all know this is my first posting. I have a 1986 starflight with a 200hp blackmax and was wondering what would be the best Jack Plate for the money, also what height and offset has proven to be the best for speed. Also any other tips would be great.
 
cmc is one of the best. i just bought a 5.5 hydro today to bolt on top of my 10 manual for a total of 15.5 of setback. the starflight has a notch so i hear they require less setback than my pulsare. i would go with 10 inches if it were mine. here is a link to where i got mine....i could not find it any better than this for price.

http://www.boatownersworld.com/CMC/pl65_power.htm
 
i have talked to many guys on here about cmc plates and they say for our boats('87 starflite mine) they start to low for the hull. i bought a 12 inch vance mnfg. for 265$ to my door brand new! it is a manual one but they say that the cmc's start way to low and don't have the vertical travel. mine has 4 inches of travel and will actually bring my motor up from factory almost 7. ross
 
I don't know for fact on that, i guess it could depend on how they are bolted to the transom, and how the motor is bolted to the jp. with all the holes in the motor, and both sides if the jp, you would think you could make a cmc work on just about anything if you have a 20 inch mid section.

from cmc:

Our most popular model, the PL65 is rated for V-6 motors and smaller and gives you 5" of vertical travel with 1-1/2" of adjustment on the motor bracket and 1-1/2" of adjustment on the transom bracket. A TOTAL OF 8" OF POSSIBLE ADJUSTMENT! It also can be purchased with stainless steel motor rails, Model PL-65SS (for V-8 motors).
 
I can sell the 5 1/2" hyd. for $635+ shipping for a limited time! The manual is $225+ shipping. If you go hyd, I would look at the ones from Bob's Machine Shop. I am a dealer for them also, but I have to call for pricing. boatman
 
kct11 said:
cmc is one of the best. i just bought a 5.5 hydro today to bolt on top of my 10 manual for a total of 15.5 of setback. the starflight has a notch so i hear they require less setback than my pulsare. i would go with 10 inches if it were mine. here is a link to where i got mine....i could not find it any better than this for price.

http://www.boatownersworld.com/CMC/pl65_power.htm
Click to expand...

DUDE!

This will be an interesting one to watch! I think you'll have one of the most 'setback' 2100 Pulsare's on the board. Can't wait to see the outcome of your prop testing :thumb:

As far as the Starflight hull is concerned, John Tiger Jr. (currently of BWB mag fame) used to run a Starflight, and his testing found 14" of setback was best for the 2.4 liter motors way back when. Id have to guess a Starflight with a heavier 3.0 motor would want 10-12".
 
kct11 said:
hmm really? based on the fact i have a "light" 2.5L promax, and what i learned in this link, i figured it would work out good. time will tell.......

http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9731&highlight=setback
Click to expand...

Exactly! I think your setback will be about right. I never got that far back, and wished I could have gone back more for testing. My Pulsare ended up with 10" setback with the '95 Promax 2.5. NOT enough for top end work. Motor was still trimmed several degrees positive at best top speed. I 'settled' with the 10" though, was almost good enough. I'm excited about seeing how you end up with more setback with basically the same boat/motor I had :bigthumb:
 
:confused::confused: ohhhh, i thought you were thinking i was nuts!, and was going to have a hard time finding a prop/setup that would even work.

to be honest, i would have liked to have a skinner hydo jp bolted to that 10 inch, but did not feel like mounting a pump in my boat, or having it hang off the side on the jp. i thought about keeping the old land and sea one that was on my old baja. it would have only added about 2 more inces of set back. it was old, wore out, and too ugly for the pulsare.
 
I think 15.5" will make a really nice balance for the light 380 pound Promax 2.5 you've got. My 10" balanced really well at 55 mph, but had to go positive trim to get over 70. Another 5.5" will balance at a much higher speed, and I can't wait to see how it works for you!

If you're OK with having to 'drive' the boat, try a 25" Tempest Plus prop and see what happens. My worked 23" Tempest was the best top end prop I tried with the 10" setback. I could get 6400 rpms pretty consistently. Awesome hole-shot too. I wish I knew who had worked that prop. It was perfect for my setup (mostly pulling tubes/skis).
 
well, for a prop i am starting with what was on the promax when i bought it. it is a 4 blade that has been worked over heavily. i have no idea what it is, it is stamped by hand with the markings T2531. i hope it works!

sorry durango4you, we are getting off course here.
 
F150GT said:
I can feel the diffrence between my Flight with a Yami 200 and my buddies Flight with a Merc. I built a custom bracket for my brothers Bajahaha & Merc, I pushed it back 18" to get it to perform. Tried 14",16" & 18" to get it to air out.
The diffrence between 10" & 16" on mine was 5 MPH. I'm running a 10" custom bracket to redistribute the load accrost the transome & a 6" CMC behind that for height adjustment.
Click to expand...
I guess bigger is better
 
Yea, thanks for all of the great info, I think im going to go with a 10" jp from cmc. I don't have the money for the Hyd, so i will have some patience while adjusting it to find the top speed, right now im running 65 with a turbo prop. so i am hoping for 70+ with the JP
 
durango if you can, scrounge up or save up the extra $432 for a hydro. i am new to boats and the only boat i set up before i do my new pulsare was a sportfire. i put a manual on it, set it up for speed, than was hating life any other time i was doing anything but flat out. they hydro will let you burry the prop for taking off, when the seas get on the ruff side, or any other time the motor just does not need to be up that high.
 
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if needed i will give you a shout! i also just bought a brucato acu with a 7200 rpm limit just incase i need to prop down to get her going with a full load.
 
Hyd. J/P

I also went with the CMC hydraulic from the factory on my Pulsare 2100 (I can't remember what brand was on my Starliner, Sorry!).

Checkmate recommends this plate. As a matter of fact when I asked about getting another brand they refused to entertain the idea. CMate said that there is more to a Hyd. J/P then vertical travel (i.e. support, strenght, how it sits on the transom, etc.).

The CMC must be quality if they feel that strongly about it.

KCT11- I am running a 2.5L as well. I chose the 10" CMC and have 4" T-6 alumininum spacers waiting for the boat when it comes in. That gives me a total setback of 14". I have other spacers floating around from my old boat just in case, but I think this setback will be the ticket. There are some pretty good threads on this topic and from what I have read, with our "light motors", we will be in the sweet spot!

I can't wait to test and tune, I will stay in touch and let you know what works with mine.;) Maybe I need another 1.5"....story of my life!:irked:

Good luck
 
my thoughts on the starflite are this, lots of setback, even with a heavy motor, my 2.4 is at 13" and it's still not enough. Yes it's "notched" but it doesn't seem to help this heavy boat. remove the floatation foam from the bow of the boat, it is most likely soaked full of water and making the bow even heavier. Use a hydraulic JP if you want to but I had one, CMC, and it was of no bennefit. I took it off and put extentions in it's place with a manual JP and i can run really high or low and it has no real effect, in fact it get's on plane faster jacked up because this 2.4 has no low-end torque, getting the RPM's up to 3k+ is where the power is. I am even contemplating taking off the manual JP and just putting another set of 8" extentions to get it to 16" of setback. The real issue is that when you get up to 70+ mph this hull starts to chine walk and if you have your motor trimmed way up to the bow to lift it becomes a nightmare to steer. A motor with less trim will control better and waste less power.
 
hotdaddy27 said:
KCT11- I am running a 2.5L as well. I chose the 10" CMC and have 4" T-6 alumininum spacers waiting for the boat when it comes in. That gives me a total setback of 14". I have other spacers floating around from my old boat just in case, but I think this setback will be the ticket. There are some pretty good threads on this topic and from what I have read, with our "light motors", we will be in the sweet spot!

I can't wait to test and tune, I will stay in touch and let you know what works with mine.;) Maybe I need another 1.5"....story of my life!:irked:

Good luck
Click to expand...


sounds cool!
 
:surf:ok guys i just made my mind up and decided to go with the PL65 10 inch Set-Back Hydraulic. I can't wait to get this thing on my boat and test it out. i hope it works out as good as i hope, i mean $600 should make me go at least 5 + mph
 
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