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5'' VS 10'' Setback on 2100BR help/info?

M

mh2508

Active member
I have 2008 2100BR, running a 200 ETEC/HO with a 24 pitch Raker II. I have not had the boat in the water yet and it is brand new so I have no idea how it will run at this point. I am toying with changing the factory 5'' manual plate this winter and getting out to 10''. At 10'' I am hoping I dont have to mess with any of my rigging since I think everything is long enough. ( let me know if wrong on this please ).

The info I am looking for is:

- will the 10'' make a difference over the 5''? From what I read it does?

- what options do I have to do this, should I just buy spacer kit or a new 10'' hydraulic? With 10'' is transom re-enforcement needed on the newer boats?

- would there be a better prop option also for general use? I dont use this boat for skiing or anything, just a cruiser that I would like to go fast but top speeds is not priority over just all around general use.

Thanks to all who can offer advise!
 
mh2508 said:
I have 2008 2100BR, running a 200 ETEC/HO with a 24 pitch Raker II. I have not had the boat in the water yet and it is brand new so I have no idea how it will run at this point. I am toying with changing the factory 5'' manual plate this winter and getting out to 10''. At 10'' I am hoping I dont have to mess with any of my rigging since I think everything is long enough. ( let me know if wrong on this please ).

The info I am looking for is:

- will the 10'' make a difference over the 5''? From what I read it does?

- what options do I have to do this, should I just buy spacer kit or a new 10'' hydraulic? With 10'' is transom re-enforcement needed on the newer boats?

- would there be a better prop option also for general use? I dont use this boat for skiing or anything, just a cruiser that I would like to go fast but top speeds is not priority over just all around general use.

Thanks to all who can offer advise!
Click to expand...

I would put a 6" hydraulic on the 5" setback. You can't get enough height with one plate alone it seems. 11" total setback is good all-around. Transom strength is no problem. Your prop should be right in the ballpark.
 
mh2508 said:
I have 2008 2100BR, running a 200 ETEC/HO with a 24 pitch Raker II. I have not had the boat in the water yet and it is brand new so I have no idea how it will run at this point. I am toying with changing the factory 5'' manual plate this winter and getting out to 10''. At 10'' I am hoping I dont have to mess with any of my rigging since I think everything is long enough. ( let me know if wrong on this please ).

The info I am looking for is:

- will the 10'' make a difference over the 5''? From what I read it does?

- what options do I have to do this, should I just buy spacer kit or a new 10'' hydraulic? With 10'' is transom re-enforcement needed on the newer boats?

- would there be a better prop option also for general use? I dont use this boat for skiing or anything, just a cruiser that I would like to go fast but top speeds is not priority over just all around general use.

Thanks to all who can offer advise!
Click to expand...
The 200 HO will be very gutsy motor since it is the same big bloock as the 225 HO and 250 (non-H0). If it were me I would launch it and get a baseline just the way it is setup now before I started looking at different props. I have the 250 on a 21' Starliner. I have 26 Raker and a 27 Trophy. The Trophy is faster, smoother and better in every respect but not by much. For a 3 blade the Raker is a good choice for that combo.
Most guys here will tell you that you need at least 10" setback. You could stack another manual plate and save a lot of money over buying a hydraulic. You may not get a huge performance increase with more setback because the motor is over 500 pounds already. I have 8" of setback. I went down from 11" and it seems fine but then I am not trying to wring every last MPH out of it. I set my boats up for best cruise speed and don't like the porpoising you get with too much setback at slower speeds.
As far as rigging. You will just have to look under the bilge and see if you have enough slack to move the motor back. You almost always do since the rigging comes out of the rear deck and goes forward some before it goes back to the motor.
 
Hydraulic is the way to go and some of the best $$ you'll spend. Offers WAY more versatility to get what you want/need out hull going up and down with touch of the button.

Set back distance and reinforcement I'll leave to the Pulsare pros. You'll get lots of great input you can rely on.

Trophy Plus seems to be best prop that most people, including myself, rave about for overall use.

Welcome to the board!!
 
My 1999 - 2100LD with 200 yammy just had the manual stock plate. I had no problems with that. But on this boat my Hydraulic steering fittings are going to hit the top of the splash well if someone trims the motor up to high. That is my biggest concern of damaging the finish there. Figured to cure that I would have to move the motor back a few inches. Like I said I am not out to break the speed records just want a good usable boat that doesnt porpose at 35-40 mph so maybe I could get by with a 6'' hydraulic????? that way If the fittings are still close I can jack it up before trimming it up to go on trailer.
 
heres a pic of my 21 with 10'' set back.the only time it porpois's is if you had it trimmed up running fast and slowed down to 35-40 and left the motor trimmed high,a couple taps on trim and it stops! i have a worked trophy plus.hope this helps. top speed 77.9,when bk owned it, my best speed in really ruff water was 72.5,have not been out on smooth water since! can't wait for spring







DSC01388.jpg
 
mh2508 said:
My 1999 - 2100LD with 200 yammy just had the manual stock plate. I had no problems with that. But on this boat my Hydraulic steering fittings are going to hit the top of the splash well if someone trims the motor up to high. That is my biggest concern of damaging the finish there. Figured to cure that I would have to move the motor back a few inches. Like I said I am not out to break the speed records just want a good usable boat that doesnt porpose at 35-40 mph so maybe I could get by with a 6'' hydraulic????? that way If the fittings are still close I can jack it up before trimming it up to go on trailer.
Click to expand...
That motor has a tilt limiter. It is on the tilt tube and can be set by hand. It will prevent the motor from overtilting.
 
Mark said:
That motor has a tilt limiter. It is on the tilt tube and can be set by hand. It will prevent the motor from overtilting.
Click to expand...

Yes it does, I didnt know that thanks! Now knowing that would I even want to mess with extending it from 5'' to more? Is there that much difference in doing that other than speed speed gain?
 
If you want to maximize top speed you would need to add setback. If you are just looking for good cruise, that will be more a function of finding the right prop. Adding a hydraulic JP therefore might be an expensive touch with little benefit. I would run the boat and see if it has a nice balance with the current setback and motor. If it feels bow heavy then you might want to consider more setback.

Like I said, my Starliner (which runs more bow heavy than a Pulsare) seems fine with the heavy Etec at 8".
 
Mark said:
If you want to maximize top speed you would need to add setback. If you are just looking for good cruise, that will be more a function of finding the right prop. Adding a hydraulic JP therefore might be an expensive touch with little benefit. I would run the boat and see if it has a nice balance with the current setback and motor. If it feels bow heavy then you might want to consider more setback.

Like I said, my Starliner (which runs more bow heavy than a Pulsare) seems fine with the heavy Etec at 8".
Click to expand...
How much does the etec weigh ? Everything I have seen says it's around 435 lbs dry
 
heres what i found on etec








200-HP
MODEL-SPECIFIC ELEMENTS

MODEL WEIGHT SHAFT LENGTH COLOR GEAR RATIO STARTING METHOD TRIM METHOD STEERING
E200DCX 433 lbs /
196 kgs 25" / 635 mm White 1.85:1 Electric FasTrak™ Power Trim and Tilt Remote
E200DPL 418 lbs /
190 kgs 20" / 508 mm Blue 1.86:1 Electric FasTrak™ Power Trim and Tilt Remote
E200DPX 433 lbs /
196 kgs 25" / 635 mm White 1.85:1 Electric FasTrak™ Power Trim and Tilt Remote
E200DSL 418 lbs /
190 kgs 20" / 508 mm White 1.86:1 Electric FasTrak™ Power Trim and Tilt Remote
COMMON ELEMENTS
 
pete m said:
heres what i found on etec








200-HP
MODEL-SPECIFIC ELEMENTS

MODEL WEIGHT SHAFT LENGTH COLOR GEAR RATIO STARTING METHOD TRIM METHOD STEERING
E200DCX 433 lbs /
196 kgs 25" / 635 mm White 1.85:1 Electric FasTrak™ Power Trim and Tilt Remote
E200DPL 418 lbs /
190 kgs 20" / 508 mm Blue 1.86:1 Electric FasTrak™ Power Trim and Tilt Remote
E200DPX 433 lbs /
196 kgs 25" / 635 mm White 1.85:1 Electric FasTrak™ Power Trim and Tilt Remote
E200DSL 418 lbs /
190 kgs 20" / 508 mm White 1.86:1 Electric FasTrak™ Power Trim and Tilt Remote
COMMON ELEMENTS
Click to expand...
So why is mark calling it heavy? That is very light to me:poke:
 
He has the 200 HO which is a 3.3L instead of standard 2.6L 200 and weighs 503 dry. Plus fluids, oil tank and prop it is a big motor. I went from a 2.6L Yamaha to the Etec was surprised how much heavier it was. With 11" of setback I had zero weight on the trailer tongue. I took off my 3" extention and the trailer tongue was back to where it was before. So I know I had roughly the same fore/aft balance as before.
 
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