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Engine height starting point with manual jackplate

Philster

Philster

Active member
2400/BRX. 300XS. 12" setback/jackplate (manual. Bob's). 3B Tempest, 25P.

So, I was always under the impression that a starting point for the engine height was to line up the antiventilation (AV) plate with the bottom of the boat and raise an inch for every 10-12" of setback.

When I am done break-in, I want to spend a few hours on some calm water and tinker with the engine height. So, rather than taking stabs in the dark, would a good point to start be lining up the antiventilation plate with the bottom (give or take an inch).

Also, should I make adjustments in half inches, inches, two inches? Not sure what increments are too small to even bother with.

:surf:
 
Just a guess but the vent plate at or an inch above the bottom is probably too low. Usually you base your measurement off of the propshaft location. I would say 3 inches below is a very conservative starting point. I used a sharpie to mark inches below the bottom in an around the sweet spot for my Liner.

John
 
Randy (Wildman) recommends centerline of prop 3-3.5" below the V-pad. That how he sets up the 2400's. I think he stated any higher and you'll loose bow lift. I'll see if I can find the info.
 
Philster said:
2400/BRX. 300XS. 12" setback/jackplate (manual. Bob's). 3B Tempest, 25P.

So, I was always under the impression that a starting point for the engine height was to line up the antiventilation (AV) plate with the bottom of the boat and raise an inch for every 10-12" of setback.

Also, should I make adjustments in half inches, inches, two inches? Not sure what increments are too small to even bother with.

:surf:
Click to expand...

Not on a Checkmate. Like the guys said. 3-3 1/2" and you are golden. But that is for Trophy because it does depend on the prop. A Fury need to be run 1/2" deeper. Others like a Hydromotive can be run higher because they are bigger diameter. I can run my Rev 4 at 1/2" higher than a Trophy. When you experiment move 1/4" at a time until you find your sweet spot.
 
I do need the bow to get up/out, and that does require more bite and support from the prop and plate back there.

I know Randy runs more setback, with a hyd. jackplate and a Trophy, but Checkmate and at least one other test showed the Tempest beat the Trophy when there was no hyd jackplate and less setback than Randy runs.

But I've got good info now. I am going to set it up as suggested for my starting point instead of hunting around in the dark for one, and I will go with 1/4" adjustments (jackplate is fast adjustable with one bolt easily accessible in the boat).

Good info, guys. Thanks!
 
Hydraulic or manual the plate will have the same effect on the boat (I'm sure you already know that). The Tempest might be a MPH or two faster but I think in about every other respect the Trophy will be better. The 4 blade I run gives up 1 or 2mph to my 3 blade Raker but there is far less torque steer in the wheel and the bite in the turns is so much better than the 3 blade I don't mind sacrificing a little up top.

John
 
What I was implying about hyd. vs. manual jackplate is that I have to pick a spot/prop that works with my final position I choose, which is ultimately a compromise. With a hyd. jackplate, maybe I'd be running a 4B Trophy since being able to raise the motor vertically once planed and get more speed that way.

Not too worried about the prop right now. I'm not exactly going to run WOT much anyway. Just looking for a happy vertical setting. I will know I am there by running WOT though. :)
 
cmpulse170 said:
Randy (Wildman) recommends centerline of prop 3-3.5" below the V-pad. That how he sets up the 2400's. I think he stated any higher and you'll loose bow lift. I'll see if I can find the info.
Click to expand...
.
YUP! Go higher, go slower! Use a 23 Trophy prop. The cavitation plate is 8" above the propshaft. You should make the cavitation plate 4.5-5" above the bottom. If you ordered the boat from me it would already be set up correctly and probably would have been alot cheaper. So, how much did you pay out the door anyway?
 
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Randy, I respect you, man.

I don't want to get into all that about this dealer vs. that dealer. My deal was wrapped up with a few other things I had going as far as boats I had to broker and some other local dealings I have going on.

My goal is to brag up the Checkmate brand and see the whole dealer network thrive! But, If I were you, I'd be asking me the same questions! Haha.

She was bought at PBS in Bensalem, PA. Good guys and they know what they are doing. High-performance guys in every way. Still, at the end of the day, aren't we all looking for Randy to check in? If Checkmate does, we all should!

All good!
 
WILDMAN said:
.
YUP! Go higher, go slower! Use a 23 Trophy prop. The cavitation plate is 8" above the propshaft. You should make the cavitation plate 4.5-5" above the bottom. If you ordered the boat from me it would already be set up correctly and probably would have been alot cheaper. So, how much did you pay out the door anyway?
Click to expand...


This is the same thing I was telling cmpulse170, the 2400 and the older Enforcer are pretty much the same boat from the rubrail down and both have a deeper v than a 2100 or a 2000 and cannot stand as much engine height. I tried several different settings with my Enforcer and once you got to a certain point, performance fell off FAST!
 
Engine hight

To me I would start low like 3.5 in prop shaft below the bottom and go up .5 in at a time and it all depends what and how you are going to be boating if you are just cruzing and a bit of full throttle start with a 4 blade prop and your height will depends on how you drive if you are a sharp turn pearson you may cavitate if to high and no bow lift at full throttle, I would invest in a water pressor gauge as long as you run 7 to 10 lbs of water you are ok
 
I didnt buy this from a dealer, and no factory checkmate is like this one....however if i get this right.....I need to set the cavitation plate 4.5 inches above the bottom of the pad, leaving 3.5 below the pad. (Randy is correct i have 8 inches from center of prop to bottom of cavitation plate)...As you can see i have a 12 inch slidemaster, 200 hp with a trophy 4 blade....
 

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ballardnboyz said:
I didnt buy this from a dealer, and no factory checkmate is like this one....however if i get this right.....I need to set the cavitation plate 4.5 inches above the bottom of the pad, leaving 3.5 below the pad. (Randy is correct i have 8 inches from center of prop to bottom of cavitation plate)...As you can see i have a 12 inch slidemaster, 200 hp with a trophy 4 blade....
Click to expand...

Hey!! I see your engine has a nose cone with lower water pic-up in that case I would get a water pressure guage not a temp guage so that you can run 7 lbs. of pressure and you will have that prop spinning to the max rpm and you will fly and have fun and lees steering torque
 
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