1975 V-Mate II Restore

[Will30]

I think getting together somewhere as a group would be great. I'll definitely have it back on the water by next year with new core, transom, deck and stringer but it may not be "complete" in terms of full restoration. I still need to call the guy in SC in regards to my motor.

I'm a graphic designer so I'm thinking of either recreating the sticker I have or coming up with something different. Still a long way off.

What exactly is wrong with the motor ? does it run do you know ? I remember you did say it needed a wire harness .

 

[bigredinohio]

What exactly is wrong with the motor ? does it run do you know ? I remember you did say it needed a wire harness .

When I bought it, I attempted to start it which it did turn over and fire but it didn't actually run. The starter acted like it stuck and continued cranking a second or two after letting off the key. He gave me paperwork from a mechanic saying the compression was checked a few years back when he had the steering replaced (the only thing new in this boat) and compression was rated good but that is worthless in my book since it's not current. I haven't done anything to the motor except to put it on the stand since I brought it home.

I'll have to take some pictures so you can see but the trim pump needs reworked, most wires probably need replaced, lower end leaking oil, choke missing on the bottom carb and that's just what I see on the surface.

I only assume that I'll need to rebuild the carbs along with replacing half of the motor? I'd love to do it myself and learn but I'm afraid I'll screw it and/or take forever and never complete it.

 

[Will30]

When I bought it, I attempted to start it which it did turn over and fire but it didn't actually run. The starter acted like it stuck and continued cranking a second or two after letting off the key. He gave me paperwork from a mechanic saying the compression was checked a few years back when he had the steering replaced (the only thing new in this boat) and compression was rated good but that is worthless in my book since it's not current. I haven't done anything to the motor except to put it on the stand since I brought it home.

I'll have to take some pictures so you can see but the trim pump needs reworked, most wires probably need replaced, lower end leaking oil, choke missing on the bottom carb and that's just what I see on the surface.

I only assume that I'll need to rebuild the carbs along with replacing half of the motor? I'd love to do it myself and learn but I'm afraid I'll screw it and/or take forever and never complete it.

These motors are pretty simple . Ive done alot of work on mine and a buddy of mine has one also that ive worked on . The choke only actuates the top two carbs the bottom is left open . The wire harness can be changed in just a few minutes and the starter is very easy to get to also . Just like I just found that the stator can be changed in less than 30 mins lol . The only thing I havent done is mess with the timing or a rebuild .

 

[bigredinohio]

Is it me or is it very testy in here this past weekend?

 

[Will30]

Is it me or is it very testy in here this past weekend?

Yeah ive noticed that . Must be because the boating season is almost over . We really didnt have much of a summer this year . I did use my mate alot this year . I made sure of that after having the motor all in pieces in the drive way this spring I was defintley using mine .

 

[bigredinohio]

These motors are pretty simple . Ive done alot of work on mine and a buddy of mine has one also that ive worked on . The choke only actuates the top two carbs the bottom is left open . The wire harness can be changed in just a few minutes and the starter is very easy to get to also . Just like I just found that the stator can be changed in less than 30 mins lol . The only thing I havent done is mess with the timing or a rebuild .

I hope you don't mind if I ask a lot of questions regarding this motor being a novice with repairing engines.

 

[groundloop]

I hope you don't mind if I ask a lot of questions regarding this motor being a novice with repairing engines.

If you don't have one yet the best investment you can make is a factory service manual for your engine. Don't waste your money on the generic one-size-fits-all type manuals that a couple of publishers put out, if at all possible get the factory one.

 

[Vandalizer]

Nice thread! I have to say, it looks like you've done an OUTSTANDING job on the boat!

 

[bigredinohio]

If you don't have one yet the best investment you can make is a factory service manual for your engine. Don't waste your money on the generic one-size-fits-all type manuals that a couple of publishers put out, if at all possible get the factory one.

I have the Clymer's version which seems generic. I'll try tracking a good one down.

 

[Will30]

I have the Clymer's version which seems generic. I'll try tracking a good one down.

I do Not like the clymer manuals . I like The Seloc ones myself . But the factory manual is the best . But the Seloc manual will get you thru it is a good manual .And by any means you have a ? just ask. These motors are very simple once you get fimilar with it . They still have the best power to weight ratio.

 

[bigredinohio]

I do Not like the clymer manuals . I like The Seloc ones myself . But the factory manual is the best . But the Seloc manual will get you thru it is a good manual .And by any means you have a ? just ask. These motors are very simple once you get fimilar with it . They still have the best power to weight ratio.

Thanks Will, your insight has been most helpful!

 

[bigredinohio]

Well, I just got done gluing in the cross support for the transom with PL Premium and also did a fillet. It was on the old transom when I ripped it out and my new transom bowed out about a 1/8" so this brought it in almost perfect.


Sanded where the support will be and 2" additional from the top & bottom


Big clamps coming in handy again


Fillet - rounding the edge with excess PL Premo
__________________

 

[Will30]

Thanks Will, your insight has been most helpful!

Any time im here to help as much as I can . imo I think the inline six looks so nice on the 70's checkmates. The sound of these motors as they power up is just awesome. I really thought about going to a v-6 but The old inlines deserve to be kept alive .

 

[Vandalizer]

The old inlines deserve to be kept alive.[/quote]

x2!

 

[aqua]

Nice Job

From the pictures, it looks like the mat at the top 1"-1 1/2" of the transom has delaminated as you tried to wrap it around the corner. I would grind down until you get solid glass, and add more glass/resin. If you find is hard to wrap corners, use more layers of a thinner mat.
Also, remember to use structural putty on top of the transom as you put the deck back on to have a solid joint. I always glass the inner seam where ever I can as well to stiffen the structure and waterproof. I like to use T-rivets to join the rub rail to deck/hull joint(they split and curl to pull the joint tight and support a larger area)they are use on airplanes where the aluminum isn't very strong, but they need a extremely secure joint.
Look forward to more pictures. Good Luck!

 

[bigredinohio]

From the pictures, it looks like the mat at the top 1"-1 1/2" of the transom has delaminated as you tried to wrap it around the corner. I would grind down until you get solid glass, and add more glass/resin. If you find is hard to wrap corners, use more layers of a thinner mat.
Also, remember to use structural putty on top of the transom as you put the deck back on to have a solid joint. I always glass the inner seam where ever I can as well to stiffen the structure and waterproof. I like to use T-rivets to join the rub rail to deck/hull joint(they split and curl to pull the joint tight and support a larger area)they are use on airplanes where the aluminum isn't very strong, but they need a extremely secure joint.
Look forward to more pictures. Good Luck!

It looks delaminted but it does not have any give when I press it. Do you think I should still grind/sand it down and out re-apply glass?

 

[groundloop]

It looks delaminted but it does not have any give when I press it. Do you think I should still grind/sand it down and out re-apply glass?

Another repair method would be to drill several holes (1/8" or so) along the length of the delamination and inject either epoxy or preferably a thin slurry of epoxy and either flocked cotton or milled fiber into the void. A syringe is needed for this. Once the void is filled you'll duct tape over each hole until the epoxy has cured.

 

[bigredinohio]

Well, the PL Premo fillet looked like absolute crap with bubbles this morning when I looked at. I went ahead and smoothed over that fillet with some epoxy pb. I encapsulated the brace at the bottom and the part that was glued to the transom but I didn't the top or the outside so I coated it with some epoxy before adding some scrap 1708. Then I glassed in the top part of the brace and will do the bottom hopefully tonight so I can remove the clamps by this weekend so I can place the cap back on.

 

[Will30]

That transom is looking better and better all the time . I know your a ways off still on the interior but any idea of how you are going to set it up ? or you going to keep it original ?

 

[Chris]

b.r.o.,

I want to thank you for putting this thread together. I've been following along for some time now and thought it time to post a word of thanks.

I always enjoy these resto-type threads, so thanks for taking the time to put it all together.

I'm sure your thread will help many other members long into the future.

Keep up the great work, I'm looking forward to seeing the final results - hopefully on the entrance page.

-Chris