• Welcome to the Checkmate Community Forums forums.

    You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions, articles and access to our other FREE features.
    By joining our free community you will be able to:

    » Interact with over 10,000 Checkmate Fanatics from around the world!
    » Post topics and messages
    » Post and view photos
    » Communicate privately with other members
    » Access our extensive gallery of old Checkmate brochures located in our Media Gallery
    » Browse the various pictures in our Checkmate photo gallery

    Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

    If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support by clicking here or by using the"contact us" link at the bottom of the page.

81 Enticer help

E

equillibrium88

New member
Hello. I am totally new here, hoping to get some good advice about setting up propshaft height on my Enticer.

My boat has a manual jack plate on it. It does not have one threaded bolt with two nuts like a lot of the ones I have been seeing. Instead it has two threaded rods on the outside of the motor mount with a nut under and one over like a telescopic "T". Nevertheless my engine is far too low in the water. So much so that the exhaust ports directly below the cowling are underwater while idling. This is giving my crap performance and I know I gotta raise it. Just don't know what a good starting point is which is where the advice factors in.


The engine is a Black Max 150hp. It has a Laser II prop of unknown pitch.
I have rebuilt the carbs and installed new fuel lines. This boat is as old as I am so my poor performance may be age but then I also want to try simple solutions first. The jack plate sits out a bit from the transom. at least 4-6" away (I am assuming this is setback)

I appreciate any info whatsoever,

Thanks,
 
I'd start with the center of the prop shaft about three inches below the pad. Where is it now? 5-6 inches of setback is great for your boat and you should be hitting low sixties or even higher if everything is working great. What kind of stealing do you have? Single cable, dual cable, sea star hydraulic?
 
Yup probably 2.5-3 inches below the pad, have a water pressure gauge? If so keep an eye on that, tends to be easier driving the higher you go, but want that water pressure up
 
Thanks for the prompt reply fellas. I measured the jackplate and it sticks out nearly 6" from the transom. The prop-shaft is sitting approx 5" below the pad so I am going to raise it 2" and then see how it drives.

I do have a pisser tube, but most of my gauges don't work. When I look at the back of the gauge cluster I see a nightmare of cheeseball wire splices and quite frankly if I had the budget and the time I'd rewire the whole damn thing and start fresh.

I found out yesterday that neither my bilge, horn or lights work. The guy that had the boat before me raced it so I know the engine probably could use an overhaul. The main reason I am asking all this is because I have the boat listed on Kijiji, but if I can try these things first and the boat drives better-I won't sell it.

The guy before had a water seperator running inline from the fuel tank. I took that thing off last summer because it was installed with a small line going to the engine which limited the amount of fuel it receives. This engine is thirsty. If I drive from one end of the lake to the other it takes only 5 minutes and costs me nearly a quarter of a tank.

The motor is not a short shaft, not sure how long it is.

I may run out of adjustment room with my jackplate, which I suppose then you'd have to remove the engine and physically raise it before remounting it on the jackplate. I still have 4 holes left on the engines mount.

I am also running a 22 pitch LAser II prop, not sure if there is something better out there for me.
 
If you are running a 25"shaft motore you need to ditch your mid section and change to a 20" and change your drive shaft . Enticers are so shallow in draft that 20" lowers are almost too long. a 25" would have you jacking that sucker sky high. It would handle poorly and look stupid if you got it high enough. 4 1/4" below the pad should run like a champ with a 6 inch setback.
 
i doubt its a 25 in shaft, would be ridiculous to put one of those on that boat. Yeah without a water pressure gauge, i wouldnt go much above 3 inches under the pad without at least scoops on the intake, I started losing pressure a bit above 3. Ive never run a laser on mine, but a lot of other people like the laser IIs on these boats and have some of the highest speeds with them similar to your setup, 22 might be a bit low pitched for that motor, bet you can turn a 23 or 24 no problem.
 
I still have not measured my mid-section but from looking at it, there is no way it is 25" long.

For the steering, I replaced the boats stock system with an Anti-Feedback system to make it safer.

If I do not have water shooting out of the pisser tube, does that mean I have no water pump function?

It tends to start shooting water when the engine is in gear but not at idle.

I figure I gotta raise the jackplate 2" to gain the the propshaft distance everybody is suggesting on here. This is the max I can go with this jackplate. The only other option is taking the engine off and remounting it further up the plate.

The boat also uses a rubber stopper type plug, I'm thinking I'm going to drill that out and put in a bolt style plug. Water pressure likes to loosen the rubber ones.
I had it running last night on the trailer, runs good made a nice big cloud.

This boat is the only toy I own that is imperial, :shakehead: stupid me, I brought all metric tools.

Thanks,

Matt
 
equillibrium88 said:
I still have not measured my mid-section but from looking at it, there is no way it is 25" long.

For the steering, I replaced the boats stock system with an Anti-Feedback system to make it safer.

If I do not have water shooting out of the pisser tube, does that mean I have no water pump function?

It tends to start shooting water when the engine is in gear but not at idle.

I figure I gotta raise the jackplate 2" to gain the the propshaft distance everybody is suggesting on here. This is the max I can go with this jackplate. The only other option is taking the engine off and remounting it further up the plate.

The boat also uses a rubber stopper type plug, I'm thinking I'm going to drill that out and put in a bolt style plug. Water pressure likes to loosen the rubber ones.
I had it running last night on the trailer, runs good made a nice big cloud.

This boat is the only toy I own that is imperial, :shakehead: stupid me, I brought all metric tools.

Thanks,

Matt
Click to expand...


Take a picture and post it. Imperial? Where are you? I dont think Ive ever heard anyone call standard tools "imperial" outside of Britain. They are usually referred to as US Customary or English Standard.

Your impeller is probably shot. They only last a few years. Cheap and easy to change.

adjustable rubber plugs don't loosen . Don't drill that hole out unless you swage in a new tube.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top