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Checkmate Senator too slow....

If its a Quadrajet style carb or Edelbrock you guys are on the wrong path here. On a Quadrajet style carb the top rear flaps work on vacuum. The bottom rear flaps are mechanical. The bottom rear flaps will only open when the choke is in fully off position from the heat from the engine. They will not open if the choke is in the on position

A Holley carb the rear bottom flaps work on Vacuum if its a vacuum secondary carb
 
Big Red said:
If its a Quadrajet style carb or Edelbrock you guys are on the wrong path here. On a Quadrajet style carb the top rear flaps work on vacuum. The bottom rear flaps are mechanical. The bottom rear flaps will only open when the choke is in fully off position from the heat from the engine. They will not open if the choke is in the on position

A Holley carb the rear bottom flaps work on Vacuum if its a vacuum secondary carb
Click to expand...
You're saying that choke will be fully off only from the heat of the engine? or...
To clear some things up.
It's an Edelbrock. The more throttle I give, the more the choke opens up. Here's what it looks at full throttle. It doesn't look right, choke is not fully off.

And it looks most that this is the cause, the tab is bent and it doesn't push the choke lever fully down. Or is this how it's supposed to be? I don't think so.

And if I open the choke more with my hands while holding the throttle, the back bottom flaps open up.

Maybe I don't really understand how carb works, but why few days ago the choke was fully open when engine was off and in neutral(no throttle)?
 
:bigthumb: Now that I see what you have I can help you more. From the pics I see It looks like the edelbrock marine carb with electric choke.

A power wire with 12 volts must be hooked to the side of the choke. This must have power on it at all times when the switch is on.

If the Choke is set right when cold to activate the choke you must turn the switch on sending power to the choke. Then you have to pump the throttle lever 1 time and it will close the top flaps.

When the engine is running and warm the flaps will open all the way.

If you have a problem with the flaps not opening all the way when the engine is warm and you have power on the choke you can adjust the choke spring to make it open all the way.

In the pic below I have circled the screws you need to loosen to adjust the spring on the choke. The spring is inside that piece the more tenshion you put on it the hotter the engine must be for the choke to open all the way.

If the top front flaps are not all the way open the back bottom flaps will not open.

vzxxzzzx.jpg
 
if getting the choke straightened out and triming out doesn't deal with your problem, I would check settings on the floats, and see what you have in the carb for metering rods main jets and step up springs. There are enough people on here that have run them to get a sense if it's in the right ballpark. they're also very sensitive to fuel pressure, but that's not what you're having an issue with.

If the step-up springs are not the right ones, you wind up using the wrong part of the needles at idle and are off when you get to higher rpms...

set up according to the directions, they are a very user friendly, decent carb. imho...
 
Take the choke plate off and never worry about it again. one less thing to have go wrong. The 2 boats I have had never had any carb problems because they never had choke plates to go bad............Tho some may think im wrong !!!! But there is nothing better than being on a cruise and have the choke slap shut, bog the boat out and flood it to hell with no tow !!!!!
 
If he was running so rich the boat would not go past 3k it deff would not idle well or even run. Lack of air,trim or fuel volume .That boat with a 20p 4 should be going very high in the rpm range
 
Does any one know how this boat supposed to accelerate? Right now, if there are 3 adults on the back seat and the boat towing a 3 person tube, the boat will never get to the plane speed unless people move up front when accelerating, is this how it's supposed to be or does it seem like engine is bad, or out of tune?
 
Well if its not running right without a load like that on it. Then im sure its gonna be a real pig with all that going on. Get a 14 1/4 17p 3 blade prop if.................. you do do not have a fuel or air issue!!!!! That will get you out of the water with something to start. Tho if all your boating is with a full load and tubing I prob wouldnt worry about top speed as much as getting on plane fast and a good cruise speed.
 
I like speed, I'm speed addict :sssh: so I need it when not towing tubes.
I bought a hydrofoil(the cheap one), it helps some, but not much. So when tubing slow acceleration is considered OK?
 
I don't know if I'm gonna go to lake this year anymore, so I'll work on this boat during the winter. Are there any cheap power mods I can do for this boat? And what about mods for fuel economy?
 
Genestealer said:
I don't know if I'm gonna go to lake this year anymore, so I'll work on this boat during the winter. Are there any cheap power mods I can do for this boat? And what about mods for fuel economy?
Click to expand...

You need to make your mind up do you want more power or fuel economy. Their no such thing as both. A brand new mercruiser engine with fuel injection will be your only choice if you want both.
 
I really recommened a compression test this is something you can do yourself. Does it have the orginal engine in the boat.
 
Well, compression was ok two years ago... will check again later. Don't know if it's the original engine, the previous owner was a mechanic and I don't know what he did with this boat.
 
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