-
Welcome to the Checkmate Community Forums forums.
» Interact with over 10,000 Checkmate Fanatics from around the world!
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions, articles and access to our other FREE features.
By joining our free community you will be able to:
» Post topics and messages
» Post and view photos
» Communicate privately with other members
» Access our extensive gallery of old Checkmate brochures located in our Media Gallery
» Browse the various pictures in our Checkmate photo gallery
Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support by clicking here or by using the"contact us" link at the bottom of the page.
Exhaust problems and/or questions.
- Thread starter the sMac
- Start date
Return of the never-ending post.
jrumon, thanks for the suggestion and here's my replies.
- I already have a pair of 4" to 3" rubber reducers from the originial motor. So I don't need to spend any extra cash there. I also have a bunch of stainless clamps, rubber exhaust hose, etc. if needed.
- The custom Stainless and polished exhaust from Gill will only cost me $291 total for both sides. That's less then the aluminum 2-pipes from Imco alone. Not to mention Gills custom job won't be an ugly s-pipe, but rather a straight pipe with 2 slight angles on each end. Better for flow (as if it matters) and it will look great... polished stainless, one piece, perfect fit.
- After reading your suggestion, I did call Gill back up and requested (if it's not too late) to have the tail end of my exhaust remain at 4". They were going to make the reducer out of stailness as 1 part. I would like to keep the entire exhaust 4" and for now, I can use my 4" to 3" reducer. Then in the future, I can go ahead and change out the 3" thru-hulls for some 4".
So how does this all sound now????
jrumon, thanks for the suggestion and here's my replies.
- I already have a pair of 4" to 3" rubber reducers from the originial motor. So I don't need to spend any extra cash there. I also have a bunch of stainless clamps, rubber exhaust hose, etc. if needed.
- The custom Stainless and polished exhaust from Gill will only cost me $291 total for both sides. That's less then the aluminum 2-pipes from Imco alone. Not to mention Gills custom job won't be an ugly s-pipe, but rather a straight pipe with 2 slight angles on each end. Better for flow (as if it matters) and it will look great... polished stainless, one piece, perfect fit.
- After reading your suggestion, I did call Gill back up and requested (if it's not too late) to have the tail end of my exhaust remain at 4". They were going to make the reducer out of stailness as 1 part. I would like to keep the entire exhaust 4" and for now, I can use my 4" to 3" reducer. Then in the future, I can go ahead and change out the 3" thru-hulls for some 4".
So how does this all sound now????
Sounds like a good plan!
Also sounds like you got a great deal for under $300...
The reason most boats are using the 4" pipe and tips are that when the exhaust mixes with water, it expands (steam)... the dual 3" pipes are probably enough for a stock 300hp big block but really bottle neck down on flow after 4000rpm. The 4" stuff flows much better and since it is almost idential price, most manufactures are installing the bigger stuff now... even my GM 4.3L 225hp V6 Jet uses dual 4" thru-hull!
You should ask them how much more to throw in a set of 4" stainless tips & rubber flappers...might make a sweet deal even better and they're easier to install than you think!!!
Also sounds like you got a great deal for under $300...
The reason most boats are using the 4" pipe and tips are that when the exhaust mixes with water, it expands (steam)... the dual 3" pipes are probably enough for a stock 300hp big block but really bottle neck down on flow after 4000rpm. The 4" stuff flows much better and since it is almost idential price, most manufactures are installing the bigger stuff now... even my GM 4.3L 225hp V6 Jet uses dual 4" thru-hull!
You should ask them how much more to throw in a set of 4" stainless tips & rubber flappers...might make a sweet deal even better and they're easier to install than you think!!!
The price of the entire system: 4" tips with flappers and internal baffles, and 2 mufflers were about $500.
My main problem and reason for keeping it 3" for now... besides the money... is I used 3M 5200 on the 3" exhaust tips. So, it's going to me a long-tough job getting those off the boat.
I really want to get this thing in the water this year, and spending another nice day trying to remove the tips, then another day waiting for the adhesive to cure will cost me. Anyone from the northern regions could understand. Lake Erie is getting cold and it's been rough a lot... winter is just a cold-front away. I WANT TO RUN THIS BOAT!!!!
I didn't use it for over 3 years. Since I blew the original engine, the boat sat in a parking lot until late this summer. And now I got the itch that usually happens in spring.
My main problem and reason for keeping it 3" for now... besides the money... is I used 3M 5200 on the 3" exhaust tips. So, it's going to me a long-tough job getting those off the boat.
I really want to get this thing in the water this year, and spending another nice day trying to remove the tips, then another day waiting for the adhesive to cure will cost me. Anyone from the northern regions could understand. Lake Erie is getting cold and it's been rough a lot... winter is just a cold-front away. I WANT TO RUN THIS BOAT!!!!
I didn't use it for over 3 years. Since I blew the original engine, the boat sat in a parking lot until late this summer. And now I got the itch that usually happens in spring.
Victorious1
Member
I just can't believe that the guy at the boat store said to use PVC on your exhaust. You should go back there and ask him what might happen if the water pickup ever plugged up. People like that shouldn't be allowed to speak.
Vic
Vic
sMac... I hear you on the boating urge thing...and the weather!!! I'm in Michigan, and I too have done some late season runs...Hows December on Lake Huron sound??? I went out and started snowing!
On the other hand, I have also taken a long weekend and hauled my boat south (7 hours each way) and hit Lake Cumberland, KY. over Thanksgiving break... was still getting 70+ degree days, some color change, and totally a beautiful place to boat!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'd move there in a heart-beat if jobs were available and my income stayed the same! Anyhow, get it together and go play... time is running short! Good luck, Jim.
On the other hand, I have also taken a long weekend and hauled my boat south (7 hours each way) and hit Lake Cumberland, KY. over Thanksgiving break... was still getting 70+ degree days, some color change, and totally a beautiful place to boat!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'd move there in a heart-beat if jobs were available and my income stayed the same! Anyhow, get it together and go play... time is running short! Good luck, Jim.
December on Lake Huron sounds very cold! That's a little too late, even for me. If this boat isn't in the water by Turkey Day, it's going to sleep for the winter. Hopefully, I won't have any problems next spring that will ruin my summer.
Do you keep that boat in a heated building? How do you keep it from freezing? I did a quick winterization on the engine. Ran some ant-freeze through it while it was running, then opend the petcocks (broke one of them off... why are they plastic!) and then I put a small heater in the bilge. It won't start file, it's not that type of heater. I was going to do the lightbulb technique, but what if the bulb burned out!?
I would love to trailer the boat somewhere, but I wouldn't trust that trailer until I rebuilt all the wheels first. I only trailer it about 10 miles a year, so I never did a thing with any of the wheels.
Do you keep that boat in a heated building? How do you keep it from freezing? I did a quick winterization on the engine. Ran some ant-freeze through it while it was running, then opend the petcocks (broke one of them off... why are they plastic!) and then I put a small heater in the bilge. It won't start file, it's not that type of heater. I was going to do the lightbulb technique, but what if the bulb burned out!?
I would love to trailer the boat somewhere, but I wouldn't trust that trailer until I rebuilt all the wheels first. I only trailer it about 10 miles a year, so I never did a thing with any of the wheels.
