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Exhuast Question...

CheckmateFever

CheckmateFever

Well-known member
Spring is a ways away yet obviously, but i'm already trying to figure out how much money i'm gonna need to save up to have a thru-hull exhuast system installed in the Enchanter. So for any of you guy's in the marine industry, or any expierience with this subject at all, can anyone give me a reasonable ball park estimate of what it's going to cost me to have a marina pull the engine out, take out the Y pipe and install the block off plate, and then drill and run the tips thru the hull?? I know it's probably not the most cost affective thing to do do but i don't plan on selling the boat anytime soon, i want the sound and performance potential of thru-hull exhaust, mainly the sound is what i'm after for now then later down the road when i upgade the engine i'll already have thru-hull exhuast. I just hope i'm not looking at mege-thousands of dollars, i am on a budget. Thanks for any help!!
 
sounds like a fun project. my advice to you is to insall a corsa or silent choice type system. you already have the y pipe and engine removal shouldn't be required. you are probably looking at 1000 -1500 for the kit, but the install time won't be bad, i think the tips are around 200 or so for something that looks half decent ( i hate the flat ones). you might be looking around 4-6 hours for the install and the best part, if you do want to run quiet you can.
 
Chris E said:
sounds like a fun project. my advice to you is to insall a corsa or silent choice type system. you already have the y pipe and engine removal shouldn't be required. you are probably looking at 1000 -1500 for the kit, but the install time won't be bad, i think the tips are around 200 or so for something that looks half decent ( i hate the flat ones). you might be looking around 4-6 hours for the install and the best part, if you do want to run quiet you can.
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Actaully i thought about that...but i don't think it would work with the transom design of the Enchanter hull, I was all set to have a shop put thru-hull exhuast in for me last season but after they took a look at it said no way with out removing the engine. The exhaust has to turn down off the manifolds with an "S" pipe and run the tips below the water line...just they way they came stock out of the factory. We couldn't really find any other safe alternative. So the motor's coming out whether i like it or not, but at least it would look like a factory job when complete and keep me out of trouble :sssh: with the noise patrol. NY noise law has to be a certain Db at idle, with the tips below the water line i'll be well with in that law and they can't nail me with a "modified" exhaust system. Also, for cost reasons, i'm gonna stick with my stock manifolds for now, then upgrade when money allows. I know pulling the engine will be costly, i'm just wondering how bad my bank acount is hurt when all is said and done.
 
I have eliminated the through prop exhaust while still leaving the "Y" pipe in place on a few boats. Most recently, I added a set of CMI's to a 280 Powerquest without removing the engine. As long as the "Y" end up above the waterline, simply capping it off with a couple of rubber plumbers pcv pipe caps will do the job. Where do you run your boat in NY? Here on Long Island, I have been getting away with being over the decibal limits. Even with mufflers, my dry pipes are way over.
 
Fever, I did the same job on my first boat.... a Glastron Carlson CV-23. Took a couple hours to pull motor and y-pipe, block off plate in, then re-connect engine. This was a small block also, exited below water line, used 3" tips and hose in combination with stock drop elbows. Was a great set-up, quiet at idle speeds.
Paying for whole job including parts is probably $600 to $700.
I picked up 150 or so rpm's so no real speed, but it sure sounded nice.
 
Kelly O said:
Fever, I did the same job on my first boat.... a Glastron Carlson CV-23. Took a couple hours to pull motor and y-pipe, block off plate in, then re-connect engine. This was a small block also, exited below water line, used 3" tips and hose in combination with stock drop elbows. Was a great set-up, quiet at idle speeds.
Paying for whole job including parts is probably $600 to $700.
I picked up 150 or so rpm's so no real speed, but it sure sounded nice.
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Kelly O, thanks for that bit of info, thats exactly what i was looking for!! How long ago did you convert that Glastron?? I want to do the same set up with mine!! It's probably not that hard of a job for a profesional shop to pull an engine out of boat, i would do it myslelf but i'm simply not equiped at home to do it.

Vinny P. I do most of boating on the finger lakes, mostly Seneca, the cops haven't been to bad to hot rodders around here either so with a stock small block i should fine, i don't plan on runnin mufflers!!!
 
tips

Hey fever, i have a 21 ft enchanter a 78 with a 327 it was done at a shop and the tips are a good 7 inches above the water, if i had pics id post them for you.............oh sorry i said [hey fever] no punn intended.
 
p.s

there are pics posted on here of someones enchanter with thru hull that comes thru th rub rail....cant find them.
 
justincase said:
there are pics posted on here of someones enchanter with thru hull that comes thru th rub rail....cant find them.
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Yeah i remember that boat, it had Flowmaster mufflers coming straight off the risers and out the through the rub rail!!! Sounded nasty but not a route i wanna go. All the Enchanters i've seen with factory thru-hull have the tips below the water line at idle speeds.
 
justincase said:
yeah mine are right below the rail, just thought id throw that out to you.....justin
Click to expand...

How'd you do that?? On mine the steering mechanism is right in the way. It would be fine on the port side of the boat, but the starboard side has to much in the way. Do you still have the "Y" pipe in your boat?? If ya got a pic i'd love to see your set up!!
 
how about side exhaust like crownline. that would be different and shouldn't require engine removal.
 
FEVER i have a senator with a bigblock.Your boat and mine are kind of the same as far as engine compartments go=REALLY TIGHT.You said u are going to keep the boat for awhile,and thought about getting aftermarket exhaust later on.I had to redrill my tip holes to get my lightning headers to fit right,I searched for every possible elbow/45/22/90 anything that could keep me from drilling,but had no luck. just thought id put that bug in your ear ,to help you keep from making this face:pissed: ,like i did, when i did my boat.GOOD LUCK jonhz85 :thumb:
 
CMF,
I have the S pipes for an Enchanter if you want them. I also have aluminum GLM manifolds and stainless mercruiser risers inf you are interested. The S pipes have the necessary hoses, except for the tip connection hose. BTW, my tips were right at the water line when idling. I have video of what they sound and look like. TO install, you would not need to pull the motor.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5q-rbQZyUVU
 
SNEAKYPETE is RIGHT!!!

The enchanter needs to use "S" pipes to drop the location where the thru-hulls need to mount. You may be able to leave the "Y" pipe and cap it with RUBBER plumbing caps (since the pipe is capped, heat is no issue). You might get lucky and be able to swing the "S" pipes slightly outward to clear the ends of the Y-pipe if needed.... otherwise the Y-pipe may have to be cut down and rubber capped or done CORRECTLY and totally removed and capped with the factory block off plate.

You should be able to get a set of s-pipes and thru-hull tips cheap (used) or for new for about $300-400 total if you shop around. Hit EBAY under... ebay motors/parts and accessories/boat parts/exhaust... I see that stuff all the time for dirt cheap!

Start gathering parts.... :thumb: Thru-hulls sound GREAT and being water cooled, it's muffled down quite a bit anyway, plus the tips being mounted down low with flappers help even more. It will sound more like a low ski-boat rumble not the big offshore roar...

So how many days until BOATING SEASON STARTS???:shakehead: JIM
 
Thanks for all the info guy's, it's gonna come in handy when i get ready to take the boat up to shop to get the job done. I do wanna do the job right and would feel much better removing the Y pipe and installing the Merc block off plate, so thats the route i'm planning on goin with. From the info i've gathered i should be able to get out of this deal for around $1000 bucks (not including parts yet however), well worth it IMHO!!

Hey SneakyPete, check you PM's man, i just sent ya one!
 
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