Fiberglassing new floor

[MrWick]

I just started to lay fiberglass matting on the floor in my Checkmate.The matting as I was spreading resin on top just balled up all over the place.I put down a layer of resin,placed the cut piece of matting in the resin,procedded to coat the mat with a brush and the stuff ended up with lumps as i was coating it.What method do some of you have when doing this project,I must have done something wrong.Should I have laid the matting in the resin and let it set for a bit before trying to coat it?Sorry for the long question but this repair is flustrating.Thanks for any help that you can give me.

 

[175checkmate]

What resin are you using? I am using polyester resin. I normaly mix 12ox at a time. Then using a paint brush I coat the surface with resin, not real heavy, just enough to hold the cloth. Then I lay the cloth down. Using the brush and more resin I coat the cloth all the way through. Work from the middle out, be sure to work all the air out. If your sesin is balling up it sounds like it is flashing off to soon. Use a bit less MEK. You will have to play with the amounts. I have layed down about 8 gal. of resin and cloth in my mate. Lots of practice.

1975 Checkmate Tri-mate 2, 2.4 200+ / Sky jacker 6" plate / 25p Laser 2 prop

 

[MrWick]

I used the same resin and am using matting not the fiberglass cloth as I was told never to use that stuff.I didn't use very much activator and it did about the same thing at the start as it did near the end.It did not appear to be setting up to quick but in Florida it is always hot.I can't mix up to much stuff at a time due to the tempertures down here.

 

[175checkmate]

Thats strange. I just moved up from south Georga, I can be hot. I used both the matt and cloth in the boat. I was dependent on where I was glassing. The matt takes alot more resin to get it to wet out. I used a resin roller that helped out alot.

1975 Checkmate Tri-mate 2, 2.4 200+ / Sky jacker 6" plate / 25p Laser 2 prop

 

[MrWick]

The other possibility is that I don't have a clue on what I am doing.I started at the rear of the boat so I would have the practice before I got to the front.I used a paint brush to spread the resin and it appears that the strands of the mat came loose and made little/big lumps.Maybe it is the quality of the matting I used,I hope practice makes a difference because the first batch looked like crap.

 

[175checkmate]

Here is the link for the overhaul I am doing. Major pain.

http://www.checkmate-boats.com/groupee/forums?a=tpc&s=8626072361&f=7106095561&m=5856084761

1975 Checkmate Tri-mate 2, 2.4 200+ / Sky jacker 6" plate / 25p Laser 2 prop

 

[175checkmate]

I hear you, the matt is a lot of fun to play with. I have found that after I lay down a layer of glass. I sand it smooth. Then another layer. Feel the itch. Fiberglass is such great stuff. I feel for the guys that do it for a living.

1975 Checkmate Tri-mate 2, 2.4 200+ / Sky jacker 6" plate / 25p Laser 2 prop

 

[MrWick]

You didn't have a problem when you spread the resin with a paint brush.When I did it some of the individual strands came loose and ended up lumping together.You said something about using a roller,did that seem to work ok.

 

[Shameless]

You should not be using a paintbrush to spread resin, use a bondo spreader or better yet, get a roller from West Marine so you are sure to get ALL of the air out. If you do not, you will have voids and weak spots.

2003 ZT 240 6.2litre/Bravo 320 H.P. 24p Bravo 1

 

[Shameless]

Also, the resin that is not setting up, exactly what type is it, you migh have laminating resin, not bonding resin. The simplest to use and the best for beginners is West System. Follow the instructions EXACTLY for you condition. Your heat will make the resin/hardner "kick" more rapidly than cool weather.

2003 ZT 240 6.2litre/Bravo 320 H.P. 24p Bravo 1

 

[Shameless]

when mixing the resin into the glass, lay the glass down on a clean table, pour the resin/hardner mix onto the fiberglass, than spread with spreader to saturate the fiberglass. Than take the soaked fiberglass and lay it into the spot and preferably use a roller to remove air, if not a roller, continue to use the spreader.

2003 ZT 240 6.2litre/Bravo 320 H.P. 24p Bravo 1

 

[ncst8er]

I agree with Bill about a spreader being easier to use. I'll use a brush to coat the surface, lay the matt on top and then I'll either pour some resin on the matt & use the spreader (with the blade as flat to the surface as possible so it doesn't drag the matt and forces the resin down through it) or I'll take the cheapest brush I can buy and with it sopping wet, I'll either slap the flat surface of the brush into the matt or pounce with the tip to saturate. Use the resin roller to finish it off & remove excess resin & air after the matt/cloth is saturated. I tight areas, the brush would probably work better, but for a flat surface like a floor, the plastic spreader would be a lot faster.

 

[Shameless]

That is one part I forgot, you can use a brush for a very light coat before laying the glass, but I always used rollers for corner and flat spots. Rollers are made in all shape for different angles. A brush can not get all of the air or extra resign out. Left over resing can lead to brittleness and cracking which can let water permiate back in and rot the wood again. Probably how it happen to begin with. Just my 2 cents. Generally, unless you work one one of those assembly line boats, everyone has their own little differences. I used to build hand built unlimited hydroplanes which had nothing identicle to anything else. When we broke something, it was generally fixed under RUSH conditions, which is they way to break more things.

2003 ZT 240 6.2litre/Bravo 320 H.P. 24p Bravo 1

 

[RedNosePitBull]

You can also buy a paint roller tray to put you resin in and soak your cloth as you lay it. But getting all the air out is very important. Acetone works vey well to get that crap off your hands too.

1987 CheckMate Eluder 19'w/240hp Merc 2.5 Ob