ok..going to do this after christmas. How tough a job is it? What do i need to change out while i have the drive off? I know I need to get a trim sender/limiter kit to install. Someone sells a ujoint/gimball kit on Ebay (oem) I dont wnat to get this thing apart and then have to trailer it to the marine service folks to have them put it back together..( I know they hate that) Thanks in advance. I have the procedure someone helped me with earlier so thats not an issue. i am just scared as bearings are known to be stubborn.
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gimbal bearing /u joint replacement?
- Thread starter samjr
- Start date
ok..going to do this after christmas. How tough a job is it? What do i need to change out while i have the drive off? I know I need to get a trim sender/limiter kit to install. Someone sells a ujoint/gimball kit on Ebay (oem) I dont wnat to get this thing apart and then have to trailer it to the marine service folks to have them put it back together..( I know they hate that) Thanks in advance. I have the procedure someone helped me with earlier so thats not an issue. i am just scared as bearings are known to be stubborn.
samjr ,if you have not done gymbal bearings in the past , pay the man the eight hours to do it , the kits require drilling a hole in the gymbal housing
to get to the tilt pin's and bushing's , then threading them for an plastic 1" pipe plug to fill the hole , or pulling the transom assy , and knocking it apart , both are tough jobs best left to people who do it a lot.
driller
to get to the tilt pin's and bushing's , then threading them for an plastic 1" pipe plug to fill the hole , or pulling the transom assy , and knocking it apart , both are tough jobs best left to people who do it a lot.
driller
p.s.
if you're just doing the joints , put the shifter in forward , pull the drive , and use a ujoint hand press that you can rent at tool rentals , make sure that the shifter upper and lower halves line-up and reinstall the drive .
be shure to use a new gasket set , and put bellows adhesive on the large o-ring .
driller
if you're just doing the joints , put the shifter in forward , pull the drive , and use a ujoint hand press that you can rent at tool rentals , make sure that the shifter upper and lower halves line-up and reinstall the drive .
be shure to use a new gasket set , and put bellows adhesive on the large o-ring .
driller
Chris E
Well-known member
Driller you are refering to the gimbel ring, Sam's refering to the bearing. Same neighbourhood, different parts. Gimbel ring is a HUGE job (brother-in-law and i did one this spring). Gimbel bearing can be cranky but usually not to bad. You will need a 3 jaw head for a slide hammer, or merc has a special tool for removal of the bearing that makes it easy. There is a seal behind that bearing - replace it at the same time.
U-joints are easy, to get the u-joint on the yoke shaft end off, use a dremel and grind away some of the metal off the retaining ring, then you don't have to take the thing completly apart. That is a pain.
I built a drive stand out of some scrap wood, and clamp the drive down with a c-clamp to keep the drive in place - nothing fancy but it works.
While the drive is off check the u-joint bellows for oil or water. if oily then you need to do a yoke shaft and seal replacement.
Do yourself a favour and order the service manual for the drive from merc. it will save you more agrivation than it costs.
U-joints are easy, to get the u-joint on the yoke shaft end off, use a dremel and grind away some of the metal off the retaining ring, then you don't have to take the thing completly apart. That is a pain.
I built a drive stand out of some scrap wood, and clamp the drive down with a c-clamp to keep the drive in place - nothing fancy but it works.
While the drive is off check the u-joint bellows for oil or water. if oily then you need to do a yoke shaft and seal replacement.
Do yourself a favour and order the service manual for the drive from merc. it will save you more agrivation than it costs.
Chris E
Well-known member
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by samjr:
Is it better than the clymers book? It really sucks if you ask me... <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Never used a clymer manual, though i've heard they miss steps, i don't no if that is true or not. I've always used the merc manuals, so i really don't know any different, i have always found the merc manuals very user friendly
Is it better than the clymers book? It really sucks if you ask me... <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Never used a clymer manual, though i've heard they miss steps, i don't no if that is true or not. I've always used the merc manuals, so i really don't know any different, i have always found the merc manuals very user friendly
vinny p.
Active member
As was said, both of these jobs are not very difficult to do. Be careful with those rented u-joint presses. It is possible to bend up the shaft if not careful. Don't forget to check the engine alignment after you change the gimbal bearing. The center part of the bearing is kind of like a eye ball. It swivels around in all directions. It will most likley be off from the one you are pulling out. That is why it must be aligned again.
Yes... The MERC manual is much better!!!
YES... a gimble RING is a super pain in the a$$ to do... to be done CORRECTLY...You need to pull the transom plate for access (NOT the hack and slash drilling method that is totally SUB-STANDARD repair technique)!!!
YES... a gimble BEARING is not that involved...and as others stated, it involves a correctly sized 3-jaw to pull it, pulling the seal behind it, carefull getting the new seal in, the new bearing in (squarely), and rechecking the motor to drive alignment with Merc's special alignment tool...
My recommendation... just have it done by the pro's.... u-joints, bearing, seals, alignment, labor...about $400ish
YES... a gimble RING is a super pain in the a$$ to do... to be done CORRECTLY...You need to pull the transom plate for access (NOT the hack and slash drilling method that is totally SUB-STANDARD repair technique)!!!
YES... a gimble BEARING is not that involved...and as others stated, it involves a correctly sized 3-jaw to pull it, pulling the seal behind it, carefull getting the new seal in, the new bearing in (squarely), and rechecking the motor to drive alignment with Merc's special alignment tool...
My recommendation... just have it done by the pro's.... u-joints, bearing, seals, alignment, labor...about $400ish
DONCONVINCER
Member
DON'T ATTEMPT A GIMBLE BEARING REPLACEMENT WITHOUT THE PROPER TOOLS. ONCE YOU DO GET IT OUT YOU WILL THE PROPER DRIVER TO REINSTALL IT.
To get it out I made a puller. I cut a 1/2" square piece of steel cut the same length as the bearing is wide with a hole it the center. I put 5/16 all thread through the shaft hole then from the inside I put the steel block on and secure it with a double nut lock. On the outside I have a piece of steel that goes across the transom housing. I thread an nut on the outside and tighten it down the all thread untill the bearing is out. A three finger puller won't work because you can't get the fingers in the shaft hole
To reinstall the bearing you need a driver that only contacts the outer bearing housing. If you drive on the bearing portion of the assembly you will damage the bearing. After I damaged the first one I put in (costly lesson) I made a tool to install it properly
To get it out I made a puller. I cut a 1/2" square piece of steel cut the same length as the bearing is wide with a hole it the center. I put 5/16 all thread through the shaft hole then from the inside I put the steel block on and secure it with a double nut lock. On the outside I have a piece of steel that goes across the transom housing. I thread an nut on the outside and tighten it down the all thread untill the bearing is out. A three finger puller won't work because you can't get the fingers in the shaft hole
To reinstall the bearing you need a driver that only contacts the outer bearing housing. If you drive on the bearing portion of the assembly you will damage the bearing. After I damaged the first one I put in (costly lesson) I made a tool to install it properly
Big Red
Well-known member
If you can pull a engine out of a car you can fix this yourself. You will see how easy it is once you start taking it apart.
Only use Merc. parts don't use that aftermarket crap. Merc does not sell a kit for this job all the parts are sold individual.
A motor hoist is the easiest thing to use pulling the drive off.
Only use Merc. parts don't use that aftermarket crap. Merc does not sell a kit for this job all the parts are sold individual.
A motor hoist is the easiest thing to use pulling the drive off.
The original poster probaby isn't going to reply... the thread is 3 years old and his last post was over a year ago - sorry, couldn't resist the opportunity to be a smart ass...
On the gimbal bearing and u-joints, I did my first one this summer. After figuring out where to cut / grind a corner off the retainer ring, they went in fine. The puller / slide hammer I got on loan from a local auto parts store (most any of the chains shoiuld have one of these). Driving it in without the special tool was a pain in the neck. It took forever as I was being carefull not to hit the bearing and only the appropriate outer ring. Next time I have to do it,I'll buy the tool to put the new one in. I did pick up an alignment tool. If you're going to do any work on your set-up over time, that's an important one... I've got about 40 hours on the new joints and gimbal bearing and it seems to be working great. OH and once had the bearing in, had to put the alignment tool part way in and nudge it side to side and top to bottom to loosen / seat the gimbal bearing before it would align properly (this on advice from someone with experience).
Hope this is helpful... I'm not expert, but my first experience went well...
On the gimbal bearing and u-joints, I did my first one this summer. After figuring out where to cut / grind a corner off the retainer ring, they went in fine. The puller / slide hammer I got on loan from a local auto parts store (most any of the chains shoiuld have one of these). Driving it in without the special tool was a pain in the neck. It took forever as I was being carefull not to hit the bearing and only the appropriate outer ring. Next time I have to do it,I'll buy the tool to put the new one in. I did pick up an alignment tool. If you're going to do any work on your set-up over time, that's an important one... I've got about 40 hours on the new joints and gimbal bearing and it seems to be working great. OH and once had the bearing in, had to put the alignment tool part way in and nudge it side to side and top to bottom to loosen / seat the gimbal bearing before it would align properly (this on advice from someone with experience).
Hope this is helpful... I'm not expert, but my first experience went well...
mkhammer
Well-known member
Merc Makes a tool for pulling the bearing and one for replacing it. You also need to use an merc. alignment bar and make sure bearing to engine coupler is correct Or you will be replacing the gimbal bearing again soon if it is off. I don't know what you have but later bravo drives have a non servicable u-joint and you have to purchase a whole new shaft. Also replace the seal.
If you want it done right you must use the right tools or pay a autorized tech it may be cheaper in the long run.
If you want it done right you must use the right tools or pay a autorized tech it may be cheaper in the long run.