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High speed wiggle

KearneyClunker

KearneyClunker

Member
I guys, first post on a cold day. I have an 18 foot 1986 Checkmate closed deck, not sure about model. I'm running 200hp Merc, dual ride guide, solid mounts, no bucket exhaust (way too loud)

The boat runs 65-66 straight as a dye, extra trimming to get another 2 out of it and starts too chinewalk. Prop is a 23 inch Mirage.

The question is, will a hydralic setback plate 4-6 inches solve this. The boat then has less pad in the water does this make it better or worse to drive.

TIA
 
I guys, first post on a cold day. I have an 18 foot 1986 Checkmate closed deck, not sure about model. I'm running 200hp Merc, dual ride guide, solid mounts, no bucket exhaust (way too loud)

The boat runs 65-66 straight as a dye, extra trimming to get another 2 out of it and starts too chinewalk. Prop is a 23 inch Mirage.

The question is, will a hydralic setback plate 4-6 inches solve this. The boat then has less pad in the water does this make it better or worse to drive.

TIA
 
Hey Kearney...

Welcome to the board!

You don't happen to be from Kearney, Ontario do you?

As for the wiggle....I'll let the experts help you with that. /infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif
 
The high speed wiggle. I know it well.
First do you have a jackplate installed?
Do you have a chne problem or is it a wiggle that starts in the stern and gets worse untill you call no joy and slow down.

If its a wiggle. Things to check would be steering, any play? If so it needs to be removed, Motor mounts. Check for play there. The factory mounts are incased in rubber. I installed soild upper mounts in mine.
Check the prop, bent or damaged blades will give ya fits.
also not sure about the prop you are running. The laser 2 seems to be the prop of choise for the smaller OB mate's they provide great bow lift.

If its chine, This is when the boat is having trouble staying on the pad. Side to side motion.
Check the weight balance from side to side. With practic this can be driven through.

A jackplate would help a bunch, also a plate with setback. Checkmate's are know to be real bow heavy. You said you where rock steady untill you have to trim up to get the last few MPH. You are using the engine to help carry the bow.

I would say install a jackplate with 8-10" of set back, a water pressure gage, and raise the motor up.

On my tri-mate with the engine all the way down my "wiggle" is to bad to drive. I rasied the motor up 4.5" and the wiggle is gone. This was a hyd plate with no set back. This winter I am installing a plate with 5" setback and I will be able to raise the motor even higher. I may have to installe a low water pick-up, but that will have to wait untill next year.
Good luck and keep us posted.
What Rpm are you turning.
Also would love to see a picture.

rooster_3.jpg


1975 Checkmate Tri-mate 2, 2.4 200+

[This message was edited by 175checkmate on December 05, 2002 at 01:38 PM.]
 
Yes the wiggle is chine walk. No set back and the prop is perfect. RPMs are 5800 at WOT. Send me your email and I'll send you an Mpeg.
 
Stuck in the 70's

You might want to talk to Mike Combs @ Checkmate before you spend the money on a low water pick-up, you will more than likely lose speed. I have seen it happens too many times to people. You really need to be running above 90 for it to really work
 
I agree, No cone for this mate, I will however plug the top few holes in my water pick-up.

rooster_3.jpg


1975 Checkmate Tri-mate 2, 2.4 200+
 
The Mirage prop is totally wrong for your setup. Laser II will give you much better top end and bow lift. Tempest Plus if you can spin it after your raise the motor. No, a jack plate will NOT fix chine walking, but will aid in top speed /infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif Chine walking can be fixed by tightening the dual cable steering up real good, getting a good prop, and installing solid mounts. You are the last cure, you have to learn how to 'drive through it'. Get a feel for the boat by trimming up for best top speed just below the walking point, approach the speed where chine walking starts slowly, and counter act the walk with steering input. A full tank of gas (weight) helps slow down walk. Do the prop and steering first, you may not need to do the mounts. Worked for me. And don't try a used/rebuilt Laser II unless you KNOW it's 'right'. I had a rebuilt Laser II that caused serious (dangerous it was so serious) chine walk, and a new Laser II cured it. Your Mirage may be a large part of the problem. To check for steering cable tension, grab the back of the motor and move it side to side while watching the cable ends. See any parts moving loosely agianst each other? Adjust the forward cable outward, which puts tension on both. Tighten until you can wiggle the motor and everything's tight. Now go out and run the snot out of it! Takes practice to learn to drive through the chine walking, when you do it's GREAT! /infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif

1995 2100BR/1995 225 Promax/23" Tempest
 
A jackplate can help becuase part of what causes chine walking is the torque and bite from the prop. If the whole prop is in the water, more bite and want to roll the boat on to the chine. JW is right though, try not to use a rebuilt prop. Good ones are tough to find. When you go out and practice driving through the chine walk, it is best to do it with only you in the boat, no passengers to distact you. Think of how you feel when the boat starts walking, just imagine how the passenger feels.
 
Thank you for the input. The cables are tight, no play in the motor. Solid motor mounts were installed 2 years ago. The boat walks with the Mirage as stated but will do the same with a 21" High Five, not to the same degree but a little. When I'm running the High Five motor will over rev WOT so it's just short bursts fullout. Interesting comment on the Mirage, I really like it for all round driving. Holds really well in turns and great top end. The High Five gives a fantastic holeshot for skiing but blows out in corners and out of the hole if not under load of a skier. This tells me the motor is high as I want it without being able to adjust it on the fly. Tell me more about bad rebuilt props, is it cheaper to buy new or balance what I all ready have? The lake that this boat sits in is small and full of rocks if you know what I mean!

TIA
 
Kearney,

I have a high five on my Pulse and it sucks. The reason you don't have any chine walk with it, is because it is so damn crappy you probably lose 5-10 miles per hour with it. It sounds like you have too much pitch on it to considering your boat over revs with it. From everyone I've talked to the laser 2 is the prop to go with.
 
Guess you can't ski? quite common to drop down a cog. It's also pretty oblivous that the pitch is wrong for top end, so is the prop. The point was the boat chines a little with both props. Read the previous posts.
 
Have to go with JW on this one.The only way Ive been able to remove chime walk is to drive out of it.I also agree with tring another prop!Im running tempest plus and love it.I here lighting ET prop are great props for checks too.Still no matter what you do you always going to over trim to make the top speed.Good luck
 
C'mon guys, overtrimming to go faster, the two only things that happen when you over trim is slow down or blow over (unlikely) Checkmates are known for chinewalk! First, learn how to drive through it, I used to teach people how to drive high perfomance pleasure and race boats, it takes a hell of a lot of prctice. Every hull is different and there are many things that can and will cause your chine walking and takes time and patience to help it and only the driver xan eliminate it or just slow down, Simple! Have you checked the bottom of the boat for a hook? this is VERY common and overlooked often You might want to contact Rick @ Bayview Marine in Geen Bay. To try to explain all of the things to check to help minimize your problem takes up too much space on the forum.
 
What Pat means is: 'best trim angle for best top speed', which typically means trimming the motor past neutral trim. All outboard Checkmates 17' and larger are too heavy up front to run the engine neutral for best top speed unless you add MUCHO setback. Very few people run the necessary setback (approx. 14" depending on hull/motor) to allow a neutral trim angle at best top speed. Besides the cost of large setback plates, steering cables usually need to be longer and undue stress is applied to the transom (crack!). The over-trimming needed to get best top speed points the bullet down some, which is a small part of the chine walking phenomenon.
All fast boats chine walk some, it's all a part of getting them loose enough to go fast. And I think it's fun!! Sold my Hydrostream Virage Turbo because that tunnel boat was BORING. It never chine walked. Have fun learning to drive through it! FULL tank of gas helps....

1995 2100BR/1995 225 Promax/23" Tempest
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by KearneyClunker:
Guess you can't ski? quite common to drop down a cog. It's also pretty oblivous that the pitch is wrong for top end, so is the prop. The point was the boat chines a little with both props. Read the previous posts.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>Kearney, we ski all day. The high five is just not a very good prop for a Pulse. It cavitates any time you try to turn. Sure you get a great hole shot, but that's about all you get. The only reason I have one on mine is because we ski all day long, if we didn't, it wouldn't be on there.
 
I Agree, If the boat does not start to chine walk, you are not going fast enough or do not have the boat flying. Fun is flying my 12 foot Hydroplane at 90 to 100mph while carrying the sponsons 4 inches off the water with five other hydros on the course with you and setting the skid fin for the first turn!!!
 
There are some things to help reduce chime walking but the bottom line is to learn how to drive though it!This is called seat time. /infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif
 
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