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I need a new sound system for for my Convincor

Old Navy

Old Navy

Active member
Mine sucks. It has 2 12" kicker subs in the back seat with no box and a 300W kicker amp just for them. Up front it has a Rockford fosgate head unit that is hooked to (6) 6" round speakers. (2 are in the cabin)
I would like to be able to listen to XM radio and plug in an ipod, and have it be loud and clear. I am not a real knowlegeable person on this stuff. What do I have to get? Thanks.
 
Old Navy said:
Mine sucks. It has 2 12" kicker subs in the back seat with no box and a 300W kicker amp just for them. Up front it has a Rockford fosgate head unit that is hooked to (6) 6" round speakers. (2 are in the cabin)
I would like to be able to listen to XM radio and plug in an ipod, and have it be loud and clear. I am not a real knowlegeable person on this stuff. What do I have to get? Thanks.
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I am not big on sound in a boat, but I did notice sweetaddiction that has that ZT for sale on here and he does post regular on oso is heavy into sound. He had a good sound set up like you want to achieve.
 
if your stereo unit has an input for a cd changer you can get an adapter that plugs into it and allows you to run a hard line out for xm or ipod.i have this set up in mine and it works great. i even put a splitter in so i can have 2 lines out,one for the cabin and one for the cockpit. i have 2 12" cerwin vega subs in boxes along the sides and 2 7x10s under the rear seat powered by a 400w amp.
 
Old Navy said:
Mine sucks. It has 2 12" kicker subs in the back seat with no box and a 300W kicker amp just for them. Up front it has a Rockford fosgate head unit that is hooked to (6) 6" round speakers. (2 are in the cabin)
I would like to be able to listen to XM radio and plug in an ipod, and have it be loud and clear. I am not a real knowlegeable person on this stuff. What do I have to get? Thanks.
Click to expand...

well first of all subwoofers are pretty pointless unless you have a box. but they also make subs that are made for free air(no box needed). mainly for marine use. cut a hole and screw it in.
 
I am in the process of redoing the stereo in my 253. I am building two boxes that fit below the gunnels behind my bolster seats. I had 2-10" there this year and they sounded great but just not big enough to complement the 6x9" running 25w a piece. I have a pioneer head unit (Avec-D1) and a 6-disk DVD changer. It uses the pioneer BUS system so you can add many accessories and inputs to it. I can crank it to 100 and it sounds crystal clear, crisp and LOUD. I will have the head unit powering the 4 6.5" (two cockpit, 2 cabin) and my 2000w/six channel amp will power 4x250w to the 6x9"s and 2x500w to the 12" subs. It will sound phenominal. I am going to add the Ipod controller (Like the Avec-Z1 that I have in my Avalanche) and install a flip screen monitor in the cabin. I am going to install the remote wires on switches in the cabin so I can turn off all of the big stuff if I just want to watch a movie.

As far as head units, IMO Pioneers are the best. The cd players have the best skip resistance, they have the best sound quality and don't distort on the high side (unlike the sony's I have dealt with) and most of the standard DIN size units now have Ipod controllers built in.
 
Anyone in the area of SE Michigan who needs audiowork or mechanic work hit me up. I have 15 yrs car and marine audio and fiberglass experiance and 6 yrs ASE mechanic experiance. Let me know. Have pics of my work.
 
Gimme Fuel, thats gonna crank :D

Yellow Fiero, thats a hell of a nice offer, love to see that on here :bigthumb:


I have just 4 6x9 JBLs run on a somewhat crappy 800W Sony amp and it cranks way more than i need on the tiny enticer, was floating around once this summer on a friends lake and had three of four boats from shore come out to join the party cause they heard the tunes (was just glad they didnt come out to holler at us, plus they brought more coldies :bounce:)
 
Always take maximum advantage of available space. A couple of good rules of thumb are have your speaker rating at least 1-1/2 times the power you are amping to them, and get a THD rating on your amp source of less than 1%(pref. .07 or less is cleanest). Look for a head unit that has the features you want and amp it separately direct from the battery(this will help limit line distortion). Distortion will mostly be created from the amp source and not the head unit. Thats why the features are more important than the other numbers. If you arent going to play CDs, you don't have to be concerned with bobble and skip. MP3 players are the way to go because they don't know if they're upside down or being bounced in a basketball:rof:.(therefore, no skipping!)
 
Old Navy said:
Im done with CD's. I am considering a Panasonic head unit with a wired remote.
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Use the heaviest wire your components will handle! This helps w/ keeping down the distortion levels. Your cost will run up slightly because of it, but it's well worth it. The cleaner the signal (to both components and speakers), the better the performance. THD ratings are HUGE! Keep them low and you'll get bigger and cleaner sound. Plus, they will generally produce less heat and draw on the battery. Good luck! Audio can be both fun and functional. Besides, everyone turns their heads when they hear something rockin' and looking good!:thumb:
 
i have a new kenwood head unit, with all marine grade, 4 rockford 6X9, being pushed by a 800 watt 4 channel rockford amp, and 2 of the kicker marine 10 inch subs (free air Use) mounted in my bench seat, being pushed by a 1000 watt kenwood amp, all sounds awsome, about 800 bucks in parts. in my 1994 convincor 251
 
Old Navy, ICBoater, and Gimme Fuel,

Please post pix. I am in the process of redoing my 253 and i plan on taking lots of pix as I go. Many can learn from this.

I am putting my subs in the gunwales next to each bolster. I am taking the final measurements and doing the math so I get the max performance out of the subs. I will be using 2 Alpine type R 12" with MTX Thunder 801D amps (one for each sub).

I built a cardboard box last night and I am pretty sure I have the final dimensions that will be used for the boxes. I test fit it last night and it fits great. I will have to remove the seats to do the final installation of the boxes as thty hopefully will not flex like cardboard.

I am also building an amp rack that will hold the 3 amps that will be running the total system. The amp rack willl be installed in the cabin by removing one of the cushions that make up the extra little berth in the aft cabin area.
 
slamram99 said:
well first of all subwoofers are pretty pointless unless you have a box. but they also make subs that are made for free air(no box needed). mainly for marine use. cut a hole and screw it in.
Click to expand...


X2.. if you box those kickers in and get them sealed I'm sure you will be happy!! I have a single 12' under my bench seat that is boxed in and it sounds great. Not a big fan of the open air speaker.. they can sound good but never sound as good as a normal speaker boxed in..
 
good friend of mine has a car audio store. I didn't want to spend a lot of money on my stereo system. So I bought cheap stuff from him. 2 -10" Quantum subs in the rear seat( no box). (He said he couldn't garuntee how good they would sound without a box, but I tried it) 2 nice 6.5" in the sides, and then a small carpeted box with 2 nice 6.5" in it that I put through my cabin window and point it toward the beach. This is the key. I have 2 amps 1 for the subs and a 4 channel for the 4 6.5's. The total system cost me around 550-600 and my friend CAN NOT BELIEVE how good it sounds. The bass is INCREDIBLE! He says he would totally be proud to put his name on it and show it off for business on the water.
 
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