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Johnson 115 impellar change

G

gruhs

New member
Just purchased Predictor with 115 HP Johnson that hasn't had an impellar change in 7-8 years so my gut tells me it should be done (not sure how often is recommended on an outboard)

My question is can I do it myself with no experience working on outboards. I have the Clymer shop manual for the motor, just a little concerned about taking the lower unit apart and messing something up.

Comments?
Thanks, Gary
 
It's not all that difficult, you can probably do it in 2 or 3 hours. Beats the he*& out of paying $250 or $300 for a shop to do it for you. And yes, it's way past time for it to be changed. Going that long without changing the impeller kind of makes you wonder. While you're at it you're going to change the gear lube also, right (and check the old oil for signs of water)?

BTW, I much prefer the factory shop manuals, you can usually find them on ebay for not too horrible of a price. They're well worth it.
 
I will certainly be changing the gear lube, I think I remember book mentioning draining the oil before removing the gear case. Is there a gasket between the upper/lower housing that I should have before starting? Looking at parts diagrams I don't see one.
 
No gasket there.

I'd just get a water pump kit from one of the online retailers. You should also go ahead and get new washers for the lower unit fill / drain plugs.
 
The first thing I would check is to make sure the bolts that hold lower unit can be removed easily. My first outboard had been used in saltwater and required a tourch remove a couple bolts. The mechanic said Mr. Blue Flame is your freind on a salt water motor. Just something to think about.
 
good point Nebs but as far as I know it's always been a Michigan boat. Gotta get some washers for the fill/drain plugs before I can proceed. Hate to just order 2 small gaskets... maybe I'll order some new plug wires at the same time if I can find the correct ones on the web... wanted to change them anyway.
 
If you do it yourself, be sure not to turn or bend the shift rod, this attaches in the front of the motor down real low, right at the bottom of the cowling on the port side of the engine.
 
some of those shift rods can be tricky, what year is this 115? and yes if it shifts fine don't be lettin anyone turn the shift rod, it always seems people need to play with that, washers are 311598
 
1980 those are easy, you have to disconnect the shift pivot screw if you don't have a long 1/4" drive extension and a 3/8 flex socket don' waste your time starting.

Someone said the screw is on the port, no, it is on the starboard on a V4 cross, on the port on a V6 cross

the shift rod height is 21 27/32" from the GC mounting surface to the center of the shift rod hole.

Always before you remove the gearcase check to see if the shift lever (the one that pivots through the intake manifold) if it is vertical in neutral the shift rod height is correct.
 
gruhs said:
This motor is a 1980
Click to expand...

That's pretty much the same engine as an '81 Johnson 90 that I have. One of the hardest parts in changing the impeller for me was getting the shift rod screw back in after the job was (almost) all done. Like Bill mentioned, it's a reach to even get to, but when I tried reinstalling it I just never could get it to line up, stay put in the socket, and actually get started all at the same time. I wound up taking a piece of bare 14 gauge solid copper wire (liberated from some spare romex), wrapping it around the head of the screw and around the socket extension to hold the screw in place until it got started.
 
Well I'm still trying to get my head around this impellar change job and before I even get the parts I ordered the lower unit has started leaking oil on the garage floor. Had it for two weeks now and all of a sudden out of the blue sitting in the garage it starts to leak. I'm thinking I may be in over my head with this boat. Even the throttle cable needs changing one person has told me. Gotta decide to take it into a shop or throw it back up on ebay... gotta decide before spending more on parts. Gotta admire all the talent and knowledge I read about on these boards when it comes to keeping these Checkmates running.
 
Time to cut my losses

Well the latest is it has now developed a lower unit oil leak around the prop. Think I'm in over my head with this purchase. Time to cut my losses and put it back on ebay.
 
Just thought I'd post a status for anyone wondering how this thread turned out. I couldn't even figure out how to disconnect the shift rod in the engine area which according to the book is the first step. Their picture didn't help a bit... couldn't tell a thing from that. To make a long story short it went to local marine shop and stayed for about 5 weeks. They also took care of some other things they said were needed... much dollars later the motor runs well above 1200 rpm but won't idle worth a crap. It's as though 1 or 2 cylinders cut in and out at low rpm.

That's where we are. I envy you guys who know how to fix things.
 
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