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Looking for Advice on Starliner

atc250r

Well-known member
I just picked up a very clean 1991 21' Checkmate Starliner with a 1999 Evinrude 200 on it from HobieHernandez and I'm looking for advice on what to do next. Here is what I've got at this point:

1991 Checkmate Starliner
1999 Evinrude 200 (recent rebuild but stock) with stock Raker 14.5x24" prop on it
CMC 5.5" Hydraulic plate
Dual cable steering

Here are my thoughts on what I'd like to do before next season:

1. Remove foam from bow that could be water logged
2. Add 4" or 5" set back bracket to the jack plate if I can do so without damaging the transom
3. Nose cone with low water pick up
4. Bob's Exhaust Housing
5. Either have current prop labbed or go to different prop (I figured this should be done last to see how it works with the other mods)

Right now the boat is turning 6000rpm at about 62mph. I haven't GPS'ed it yet (will do this weekend) but that is the MPH the previous owner was seeing. From what I can tell, the boat should be capable of knocking on the door of 70 and from what I've read its taking too much trim to get it to "fly". I think that some more set back will help with that but I don't want to damage the transom. If I can just re-enforce it a little with a plate or something that's no problem. I have access to a pretty complete machine shop at work so I can have one of the guys there cut something out of stainless or aluminum plate with the machines. I'm trying to leave the motor alone for now and just enjoy the relative reliability of a stock motor. The boat isn't going to be used for skiing or anything, just for cruising the lake and taking the wife and kids down to the beach for the day so I'm not too worried about much besides getting it to go fast. If I'm going to go out for a day to ski or tube I got another prop with the boat that is well suited to that.

It sounds like I should run the prop shaft 1-2" below the bottom of the V, any input on this?

Any suggestions as far as a prop?

If I don't go out jumping waves and in "big" water, can I get away with 9 or 10 inches of set back without damaging the transom?

Thanks.

John
 
Congratulations on buying a great boat!

You're actually already back 11.5" with the notched transom. Not sure you'd see more than 1-2 mph going back further, extra setback would more address handling. If you do go back, that transom "lip" needs to be professionally reinforced or it will most likely crack.

Your best bet is to get weight out of the front. I'm not sure your foam is overly saturated though, as 62 is about what this boat runs with a 200 from the factory.

You're probably not going to turn a bigger prop than a 24 to recommended max RPM.

IMO, you'd need bigger HP/Liter (bigger 3.0 liter if the Evinrude isn't already) to spin say a 27+ Trophy, to get the heavy front end up and accomplish 70+. Starliners/Flites fight it more cause they're tru-V's, unlike pad on Pulsare's. Good news is they handle chop really well, better than most. 62-64 is gettin it with a 200.

You bought one of the best looking, most classic boats on the planet!! Again, welcome and get ready to turn alot of heads!
 
Now thats a GREAT looking boat!!!! Good luck on getting it up to the speed you want, these guys on here can sure help ya out on. CONGRATS!!!
 
Thank you very much. I guess I'll be leaving it where it is then and concentrate on the other stuff. The more I read the more it looks like a nose cone isn't really necessary at this point either. I'll focus on the other odds and ends and pop the exhaust housing on there for a little more sound. My research is showing the motor as a 3.0L so maybe I can turn a little bit more of a prop. Its getting up to 6000 without a problem and I think that is probably a little higher than it should be going. I was mistaken on the engine, its a 1993 not a 1999 which makes me feel a little better since I'd rather not have one of the FICHT motors.

John
 
Another 5" setback will help with bow lift. No problem as long as the transom is solid. The nose cone will do nothing but slow you down. The same thing if you get the motor too high as you will lose lift. 2-3" is where you will likely find you need it. With those revs you should be able to turn a 25" Tempest or Trophy which will both be faster than the Raker. Trophy will have way better hole shot and handling than the Tempest on that hull. 65 MPH GPS is probably more realistic.
 
I just picked up a very clean 1991 21' Checkmate Starliner with a 1999 Evinrude 200 on it from HobieHernandez and I'm looking for advice on what to do next. Here is what I've got at this point:

1991 Checkmate Starliner
1999 Evinrude 200 (recent rebuild but stock) with stock Raker 14.5x24" prop on it
CMC 5.5" Hydraulic plate
Dual cable steering

Here are my thoughts on what I'd like to do before next season:

1. Remove foam from bow that could be water logged
2. Add 4" or 5" set back bracket to the jack plate if I can do so without damaging the transom
3. Nose cone with low water pick up
4. Bob's Exhaust Housing
5. Either have current prop labbed or go to different prop (I figured this should be done last to see how it works with the other mods)

Right now the boat is turning 6000rpm at about 62mph. I haven't GPS'ed it yet (will do this weekend) but that is the MPH the previous owner was seeing. From what I can tell, the boat should be capable of knocking on the door of 70 and from what I've read its taking too much trim to get it to "fly". I think that some more set back will help with that but I don't want to damage the transom. If I can just re-enforce it a little with a plate or something that's no problem. I have access to a pretty complete machine shop at work so I can have one of the guys there cut something out of stainless or aluminum plate with the machines. I'm trying to leave the motor alone for now and just enjoy the relative reliability of a stock motor. The boat isn't going to be used for skiing or anything, just for cruising the lake and taking the wife and kids down to the beach for the day so I'm not too worried about much besides getting it to go fast. If I'm going to go out for a day to ski or tube I got another prop with the boat that is well suited to that.

It sounds like I should run the prop shaft 1-2" below the bottom of the V, any input on this?

Any suggestions as far as a prop?

If I don't go out jumping waves and in "big" water, can I get away with 9 or 10 inches of set back without damaging the transom?

Thanks.

John

My advice, wait til spring, put the boat in the water and run it. Dont read into too many things on the internets. Run the boat and get a feel for it, then if needed change things.
 
And don't forget to scrub it down with some Ho-Be-Gone (or is that spelled Hobie-Gone?) Get's rid of the old owners smell and buttprint in the drivers seat.:rof:
 
More great advice, thanks guys. I was figuring I could go up a bit on the prop. I'll be contacting Mike at Checkmate for new covers for those front seats this winter so that will get Hobies butt groove out of that driver's seat I think. LOL! Seriously though, Pablo was a great guy to deal with.

John
 
Pablo?whose Pablo,sounds like you bought the boat from a wetback,better check the nose you may have some mexicans and weedwackers up there weighing it down...LOL
the engine block is a 1999 the mid is a 93 and lower a 91,it is not a ficht,(ficht was fuel injected,you got carbs)and that year is finger ported,but itl ran the same speed as my 1991 gt200..remember that 24 is already to big,if you run 35 with 2 peeps for a while you will over heat,you need to run it at 45 or better,then it runs fine,if you go bigger you may have to wind it out more..
Yes I sold it,got a brand new camper,but I am already looking for my next checkmate,I'll be back...
 
Hobie- You and your family are always welcome to come out with us on our Starliner! I'm just sorry that none of the few times we made plans together ever worked out. So here's an idea. Next summer either we come down to you and you can show us around those A.C. areas we ended up bagging out of last summer or meet us at Greenwood lake and we can buzz around your old boat.
Option C: Pick up another Check and we'll take it from there.
Oh, sorry about the buttprint crack. That's right, now it's a butt crack.
 
I didn't forget what you said about the prop. I'm figuring the bigger one will be for the times when I want to go out and rip it up and then I'll run a 22 or so for cruising and skiing. We'll see what happens. I spent the last 5 or 6 hours going over the electrical system and tidying up a bunch of stuff. The depth finder now automatically comes on when the key is turned on and the jack plate is working again. The original wire that fed power up to the dash has a fuse buried deep in the back of the boat and it was pretty much disintegrated so at some point someone put a jumper in from one of the other power sources under the dash. I removed all that stuff, put a new fuse holder in the original wire, and connected all the stuff back to the correct wire. The fuse for the jack plate was pretty much dissolved too, that's why it wasn't working so I installed a new fuse holder there too. I mounted the jack plate relays up on the side of the boat so they won't be getting as much moisture on them as they were, that harness looks expensive and I don't want to find out if it is. Oh, and I found the hose that goes from the bilge pump out the side was snapped off at the fitting that exits the side of the boat. That could have been bad if the boat started taking on water and all the pump would do is pump it onto the battery. LOL! Gotta see if I can just cut the last inch off that hose and reconnect it or if I have to get a new one. Got the fuel gauge working 100% now too and I wired the backlights for the two gauges that weren't wired for it already. While I had all that stuff apart I noticed a kink in the water pressure gauge, we'll see if it works now. I just have to figure out why that trim gauge doesn't work, pick up a temp gauge for the engine, and then the dash will be golden. Gonna stop at Wally Mart for a new battery tomorrow. Time for bed, 5am comes quick but it felt good doing some work on the boat, its a lot easier to get to the dash wiring that it was on my Glassmaster.

John
 
HobieHernandez;..remember that 24 is already to big said:
A motor should never overheat at cruise unless it is lugging badly, which this one isn't if it turns 6000 @ wot. You should be checking thermostats, poppet valve and changing the impeller if it hasn't been recently.
 
mark you maybe right,all i know is i ran the 24 with 4 people on the chesapeake cruising 45 or better and it ran great,then one day on the barneget bay it was so rough that we ran about 30 most of the way till alarm went off,i decided to try smaller prop and it was fine,my last run a couple of weeks ago was using the 24 again,but we ran hard all day and had no heating issues and had no problem hitting 6000rpm
 
That's kind of what had me scratching my head as well. If it turns 6000 with that prop it is technically past the engines RPM range and is probably a little underpropped. I'm definitely going to have a temp gauge on it before next season. I'll have to poke around to see if I can find one that matches the stock gauges or maybe if my tax return is very good I'll get a new set of them. :)

John
 
It sounds obvious that the boat likes the chesapeake bay and not that N.J. water!!
you got a great boat . I ran with Hobie in that boat and I still think that is one of the best handling hulls out there. just ask sim,Hot daddy and me.
I would let that motor alone except for maybe add a pressure gauge and a temp gauge.
Hobie ,let me know when you want to come to the Chesapeake and we'll hook up. maybe we can get Sim to join us next year.
 
I'm not planning on doing much to the motor at this point. I'd like to do the exhaust from Bob's for a little more noise is all. Hopefully she likes the mix of NY/NJ water that Greenwood Lake will provide. :)

John
 
With those revs you should be able to turn a 25" Tempest or Trophy which will both be faster than the Raker. Trophy will have way better hole shot and handling than the Tempest on that hull. 65 MPH GPS is probably more realistic.

I had it out this past Saturday and was seeing 5700 at 62mph with just me in the boat and about 1/2 a tank of fuel. I was seeing 6000 with myself and a friend in the boat with a full tank of fuel but it was at around 59 and was a little over trimmed I think as it sounded like there was a hint of cavitation. For whatever reason towards the end of the day the motor wouldn't trim as high up under power as it did when we first got out there so I wasn't able to get it trimmed all the way up with just me in the boat. When I went out for a little bit on Monday it was trimming up all the way again and turning 6000 with just me in it and it didn't sound like there was any cavitation. Either way, I think I could turn a 25" prop but I'd like some more input on which to go with. I'm worried the Trophy will hurt my top end but if it won't compared to the Tempest then I'd be willing to go with the 4 blade. On Mark's advice I'm leaning toward the 4 blade to get the bow up more and improve the overall handling. Anyone else have thoughts on it?

John
 
I tried some 3 blades, a high 5 and trophy's. On my boat, nothing handled even close to the trophy's. I ended up with a 24 and a 26.

I did very little top end testing, but I've heard you'll lose a mph or two, for me - it was never an issue, we did more watersports and tight turns than flat out.

A 24P trophy plus was the best all around prop for my boat.
 
Yeah, it sounds like you had a little more power so you could turn that 26 although isn't the Merc 225 a smaller displacement than the 3.0L I have? Maybe I could get away with the 26. I wish I could try a few of these before I went with something.

John
 
I came across a good deal on a standard Trophy 25 for a Merc and I think I'm going to give it a try. I know I have to either have it re-hubbed or drill the splines down but we have a very good machine shop at work and I have a friend over there that will do a nice job on it. Any thoughts on this?

John
 
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