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lower unit

C

clarencio

Member
I can't find the alleged connection,under the lower carb that connects the shift lever to the lower unit. This is 1973 evinrude 115hp outboard engine.
I really want to remove the lower unit. What does this connection look like and where is it???
Thanks,
Clarence
 
If it's still light outside when I get home tonight, I'll pull the cowling off of my 135 and take a look. I'll let you know if I find something different. Jim
 
Clarence, take a look at the diagram from Marine Engine.com. Center of the motor bellow the carbs. On the bottom right side of the diagram find the bellcrank and shoulder pin assembly #13. Remove the hex bolt in the middle #12. The front half of #13 should separate and come off enabling you to slide the shift rod connector off of the end pin. The end pins are "captive" so you don't have to worry about them falling off. Hope this helps.:thumb: Jim

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Jim:
Forgive me for waiting about 8 months to reply. The top of the shift lever is what I was looking for---I found it and lowered the unit----checked out the water pump---it looked good. I then put the lower unit back up where it belonged. The boat is finished as far as I'm concerned and for sale.
New question: This engine 1973 115hp evinrude has not been run for many, many years.
I got it running smoothly?? for a full minute by using one squirt of starting fluid. I am using earmuffs on the engine for water flow. I am afraid to let it run long. How long can I really let it run without damage????
Clarence
 
I've used ear muffs for years with no problems. Then a couple of years ago I personally had (3) incidences where I had our 50 HP and my 135 HP Evinrudes "run away". Once on the 50 HP on ear muffs and once actually in the river while cruising. This phenomenon can result in catastrophic engine failure. You can't stop the engine by turning the ignition off. The leaner the engine gets the faster it runs.The only way to stop it is by covering the intake or disconnecting the fuel line. So that being said be careful when using the ear muffs to not rev it up with no load. Go easy on the starting fluid. Now that you know it runs I'd use gas/oil mixture. It would hurt to also add a can of "Seafoam" to the tank. I hope you find this somewhat useful.:thumb: Jim
 
Jim:
I have the engine running at idle but the cool water running thru the earmuffs doesn't come out of the upper holes on back of the motor --where it should. Does this not flow until the engine heats up or should it flow all the time??
I have built up the nerve to take the cabs off and check them out---soon.
This is 1973 V4 115hp engine.
Thanks, clarence
 
Clarence,actually if memory serves me right, it should start spitting water out of those (2) holes shortly after it starts running. I would say within 10 or 15 seconds. Be careful how long you let it run without seeing water eventually coming out of those holes or you'll overheat it and that could be all bad. You can also unclamp the the hoses at the top of the supply tubes going to the jugs on the cylinder heads and see if you're getting water there. If not then I would suspect the water pump. You might want to go ahead and replace the water pump assembly. If the motor sits for along period of time the impeller in the water pump gets hard and doesn't pull/push the water properly. If the rubber seemed soft, the vanes were turning the right direction and the tubes got reconnected properly it should be good. Worse case, since you already know how to remove and reinstall the lower unit, it's not too difficult to change. Jim
 
The reason I asked was because I thought that V4 engines had 2 thermostats that didn't open up until the water got warm??? ( If it does I'll be darned if I can find them)
BTW, what are the jugs you mentioned??
clarence
 
Clarence, I believe there is only one thermostat. It's inside of the housing on the back side of the motor where the (2) cooling hoses going to the heads meet. When I said jugs I was actually referring to the cylinder heads. Sorry for the confusion. It's been a while since I have run my 135, so how long it takes to get the water spitting out the back is a guess, but I don't remember it taking a real long time. Just be careful to not let it overheat. Jim
 
Jim, Not knowing anything about engines or even jugs I decided to take the boat off the market and dive into project of getting everything working right. I started with the carbs.
I removed the top carb and found the silencer cover full of stinkbugs, They were even in the carb barrels. On marineengine.com I found a carb repair kit and am ready to order two of them but the gaskets look slightly different from the ones I have now.
I think ordering the kit is cheaper than the individual parts.
wish me luck,
clarence
 
Clarence, The rebuild kits sound like a good idea. Make sure you clean your carbs out good and blow out all the passages with low air pressure. I'd also replace all of the old rubber fuel lines with new hose. The rubber has a tendency to breakdown due to the Ethanol that's in the gasoline. It leaves little particles that clog everything. Trust me, I know first hand. Good luck.:thumb: Jim
 
Jim...after rebuilding the 2 carbs the engine sounds great compared to the sissy sound that it had before the carb rebuild. Also..water squirts out of the 2 holes where is should.
The head temp. Only got to 107. F I don't know how much water is supposed to come out of there???? I have the for sale sign back out.
Thanks again
Clarence
 
Clarence,

Glad to hear you got her to run better. In all actuality I believe the majority of water after it runs through the heads, it is exhausted out of the center of the propeller hub and the ports on the rear of the lower leg. The thermostat should open at about 150 degrees and circulate the water through the heads. So I would expect the exhaust water to definitely be warmer than 107 degrees after the engine has run a little while. Good luck with the sale.:thumb: Jim
 
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