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New Ignition

Blue Mist '97

Blue Mist '97

Active member
Has anyone here switched their BBC or SBC from the factory Thunderbolt ignition to MSD or Mallory or DUI? Was it worth your time and money to do so?
 
I'm thinking of switching mine after this season to a MSD Programmable 6AL Digital box (roughly $350). I will keeping the factory distributor (which is just a Hall Effect switch...no weights, no springs, etc.) and wire in new box and coil so I can custom tailor my advance curve and rev limiter with laptop. Mallory makes a Max-Fire and E-Fire distributor that are also digital (no weights/springs) and don't require ignition box to run and also come with software to tune with laptop. I installed one in my sled pulling truck with no complaints, but they get very mixed reviews online. I like the fact with either product you can set your base timing and then change timing curve within minutes to add or subtract advance anywhere in the curve
 
I always hear great things about DUI products. I know the MSD components and analog CD boxes are not what they used to be and tend to fail more often. Digital boxes I'm not sure of. Many are running the newer Daytona Sensors boxes with good results and longevity also.
 
Mostly looked at MSD and DUI lately. I am leaning toward the DUI. Have not heard much bad stuff about them anywhere, and it seems like if there is a problem, DUI will help you out. Seems very easy to install.

Don't really know much about MSD products for marine use, and from a couple of conversations I had with some performance places online, they don't know that MSD even makes marine distributors. It just seems like I read about more ignition failures with MSD than DUI, at least on other sites I have checked out.
 
Msd makes marine distributors, but why bother, the springs and weights rust so bad that they basically need to be taken apart and rebuilt every couple of years. Your merc distributor works great with very little maintenance. In my opinion the only reason to switch is that you either have a blower setup or really radical cam and need the hotter spark to keep plugs from loading up at idle. If I were to do it I'd leave the merc distributor and replace the rest of the ignition with the Daytona box, and even after you took the time to get everything dialed in with your new hotter spark I'd be doubtful if you gained a mile per hour. But again just my opinion:cheers:
 
I have been using a MSD 6AL box and distributor I got used from one of the race car guys in town and it works great. Its not the blue marine one
but seems to be fine. Like jazzy said the springs and weights need some
attention but I do cap and rotor change every spring anyway. Plus had to
buy another little box that runs the tach, it didn't work right with the MSD.
Ill try to find a pic, its mounted over by the remote oil filter.
newmoter3_zpse096ca71.jpgnewmoter5_zps1d17ba10.jpg
 
Wrenchmate said:
I have been using a MSD 6AL box and distributor I got used from one of the race car guys in town and it works great. Its not the blue marine one
but seems to be fine. Like jazzy said the springs and weights need some
attention but I do cap and rotor change every spring anyway. Plus had to
buy another little box that runs the tach, it didn't work right with the MSD.
Ill try to find a pic, its mounted over by the remote oil filter.
newmoter3_zpse096ca71.jpgnewmoter5_zps1d17ba10.jpg
Click to expand...
Very nice looking motor!
 
When I built the motors in my Sonic a few years ago, after a lot of research I went with DUI and have not regretted it one bit. Very simple and reliable. I'm about in the 550hp range so don't think I need more complex systems.:lol:
 
Gimme Fuel said:
DUI is quality stuff. Cant go wrong.
Click to expand...

I agree. So..... I went and did the deed today. Ordered a new DUI marine distributor and a set of live wires from Performance Distributors via Summit Racing (free shipping that way). I was a little surprised to see that they will be shipped direct from the manufacturer in late September.

OEM coil started acting up and was going to change it, along with the cap, rotor, plugs and wires over the winter, so why not.

Hopefully, it will be very reliable for the next few years anyway.
 
Christmas Comes Early

Well, didn't have to wait till late September. Got home Tuesday night from my mother's 93rd birthday dinner and found a package on my porch from Performance Distributors. Inside was my new DUI distributor and a set of LiveWires.

I know it's probably sophomoric to many of you, but since I am not that familiar with the T5 ignition or most any other HEI ignition, I would like to make sure what goes and what stays when I remove it. From what I can see, all that needs to go is: the old distributor, including the ignition and knock modules and the old coil. Would that be correct? Anything else need to be removed? Knock sensor itself? Any wiring and/or connectors or just seal them up?

Sorry for all the questions, but this old school points and condenser guy is trying to learn some new stuff. I really appreciate any and all the input from you gentlemen.

Thanks again
BM 97
 
Blue Mist '97 said:
Well, didn't have to wait till late September. Got home Tuesday night from my mother's 93rd birthday dinner and found a package on my porch from Performance Distributors. Inside was my new DUI distributor and a set of LiveWires.

I know it's probably sophomoric to many of you, but since I am not that familiar with the T5 ignition or most any other HEI ignition, I would like to make sure what goes and what stays when I remove it. From what I can see, all that needs to go is: the old distributor, including the ignition and knock modules and the old coil. Would that be correct? Anything else need to be removed? Knock sensor itself? Any wiring and/or connectors or just seal them up?

Sorry for all the questions, but this old school points and condenser guy is trying to learn some new stuff. I really appreciate any and all the input from you gentlemen.

Thanks again
BM 97
Click to expand...
The DUI setup has it's own advance setup? If so then all the stuff you mentioned goes. I'd leave the knock sensor in and just disconnect the wiring
 
Installed the new DUI distributor and Livewires today. Still have a couple of little things to button up, but all in all it went smoother than expected.

Looks like the solenoid only has three terminals on it. One big lug from the starter to the solenoid, one big battery lug and one other small post. This smaller post has a yellow wire on it. I attached my distributor power wire to this small post and left the yellow wire attached. I have read a couple of places that say you don't need the yellow wire anymore and to disconnect it. Not sure what to believe.

Does the yellow wire stay or go (Purple distributor hot wire only)? Will it cause a problem if it stays?

Thanks
 

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Blue Mist '97 said:
Well, didn't have to wait till late September. Got home Tuesday night from my mother's 93rd birthday dinner and found a package on my porch from Performance Distributors. Inside was my new DUI distributor and a set of LiveWires.

I know it's probably sophomoric to many of you, but since I am not that familiar with the T5 ignition or most any other HEI ignition, I would like to make sure what goes and what stays when I remove it. From what I can see, all that needs to go is: the old distributor, including the ignition and knock modules and the old coil. Would that be correct? Anything else need to be removed? Knock sensor itself? Any wiring and/or connectors or just seal them up?

Sorry for all the questions, but this old school points and condenser guy is trying to learn some new stuff. I really appreciate any and all the input from you gentlemen.

Thanks again
BM 97
Click to expand...
I just took a look at the way I did it. I tied mine into the old EFI harness flat plug that had 5 poles in it. Only used 2 of those. The purple wire is what I used for the DUI main power. The other wire I used out of the plug was for the oil pressure alarm circuit. The other needed wire out of the DUI was for the tachometer and I traced that from the dash back to engine and tied in there. Try not to over think this or you will drive yourself crazy. You only need ignition power which is usually purple and the tachometer lead. I did take a couple of pics but they may confuse you even more. BTW, my way has worked trouble free for 2 seasons. Good luck.
 
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