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Playing with 8100 Vortec 8.1L

Gimme Fuel

Well-known member
For a few years now I have had about 90% of the parts needed to convert the 8.1L in my Chevy Avalanche 2500 to basically the marine variant 496 MAG HO (425 hp) specs plus a few extra. Well, I am finally going to do it when my truck is torn all apart to receive a complete new suspension system that has also been sitting in my garage for two years. With the boat motor basically complete I finally am able to get back to this project. There is a bunch of misinformation floating around on this engine or at least not the complete story told because a certain company wants to peddle their custom parts for it. There are a few bottlenecks that when addressed can open up a bunch of extra power. They are an extremely reliable engine and aren't a complete bastardized child like some believe. There are common interchangeable parts. It is essentially half LS and half Gen 6 BBC. camshafts, rockers, pushrods, roller lifters are identical style and interchangeable with the GEN 6 BBC. The engine is set up with a tight piston to valve clearance so anything more than the HO camshaft (.510/.510 lift) can cause interference without enlarging valve reliefs in pistons or changing to aftermarket pistons. Another misnomer is the cast crankshaft is weak. This is not true and just like the LS series motors, the factory cast crankshafts can now hold as much as the old forged cranks could so upgrades here are not needed until well over 600 hp. Another misnomer is that the pistons are junk and can't handle boost. Once again, they are hyperutectics like LS motors, the ring gap clearances need to opened up to accommodate for the additional expansion otherwise it will bust the ring lands. Other than that the stock pistons are very stout. The fuel and electronics are all same era LS components and interchangeable once again.

Although I will not be pulling the engine at this point, I am still expecting to make some substantial gains (70+ hp) over what I have already made from stock. The avalanche had a detuned version at only 310 hp to begin with. Through tuning and exhaust work, I gained around 60 RWHP on dyno mostly on tuning and torque management deletions. The stock truck camshaft is identical to the 370 hp marine MAG version which is around .480" lift. which is why I was able to get the tuning gains equivalent to put me at that crank HP.

My plan is to add a ported intake, marine (3 hole) injectors, LS2 Vette throttle body (105mm), Ls2/3 MAF sensor conversion, HO marine cam swap (uses same valve springs so no change needed there), and a new fabricated 4" dia. air intake to complement LS2 TB. This should net me right around 450 crank hp with a good tune. It should be a very nice bump but yet not hinder driveability and towing.

I talked to Bob Madera a bit before undertaking this project to see if it was even worth doing. He said that it would be "Well worth my time" which means it should be substantial. He also says that even with the tight valve clearance there are decent gains to be had from camshafts. For now I am sticking into the MAG HO camshaft so I don't have top tear apart and modify the heads. Some day down the road maybe.

First thing I started addressing was the intake. It has huge long runners with a consistent cross section that should make nice power right? Wrong, as you can see in this cut-away there is a huge upstream air restriction where the air enters the plenum. See how the intake air goes under the intake then up into the center of the plenum? This kills the flow into this intake and is why the power is done by 4700 rpm on this motor. It just cannot flow. By removing that plenum divider with a die grinder and introducing the inlet air straight into the front of the plenum, this bottleneck is almost completely eliminated.


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Now I could not reach inside to get all of it, but the opening straight into the plenum was created and is a very large opening now. The other challenge is the flange and bolt pattern between the ls1/truck throttle body (3 bolt) and the larger LS2 style (4 bolt). With my truck being electronic throttle, I have no idle air motor and circuit to worry about so that simplifies things. I bought a simple $25 adapter off of Ebay and will blend and port the opening of the flange. I put some good epoxy on the outside of the flange because there isn't very much meat there to make a gentle blend. This way, I can take it a bit further without making a new hole somewhere. I will be blending that section tonight.

On Sunday, I ported the plenum opening. I just did the rough port as I need to pick up more cartridge sanding rolls to clean things up.

Before:
IMG_20150314_142243258_zpstv6j723d.jpg
Here is a same size cable TB I had laying around for reference:
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Plenum opening rough ported:
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IMG_20150315_163245820_zpscc8srw6i.jpg
LS2 to LS1 adapter plate before porting and blending:
IMG_20150314_142547817_zpsbz9ky3bg.jpg
 
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Im not exactly sure. I imagine since they are the same era as the LS, most of the fasteners and such would be same materials/suppliers. Lcboater here has a bone stock 496 MAG HO running a 3psi procharger for hundreds of hours now and has had zero issues. I imagine the rod bolts would need to be addressed if someone wanted to spin higher than 5500 rpm's with this motor. That is where my rev limiter is set now and has bounced off of it numerous times at the sand dunes on the drag strip. Dart makes some nice heads, intakes, and blocks for the 8.1L now and a few other companies make cranks, rods, and pistons. There is no longer just one aftermarket company dealing with it anymore. I hear the head ports on the factory heads are terrible but they are a cathedral port LS style design. I would love to see what a guy like Jim Valeko could do with a set of factory heads. I think it is an easy motor to find gains of +20 hp here, + 30 hp there, and in other spots that could add up to be very substantial. Just like a 454, it could benefit from some bore notching to unshroud the valves since the bore is the same. It could have been a good platform, it was just never supported. You could pick up junkyard truck motors for cheap and easily make a solid 1 hp/cu in motor with mostly factory components. It is like any other GM motor, just clean up the restrictions.
 
Boo Ya!
Good on you!
Keep us in the loop. Great stuff to know.
Interesting.
And best wishes. Have a feeling we'll be hearing more.
 
With as much volume as you are trying to induce, I'm assuming this will be a high revving engine?
 
Good luck with the build. What's your take on these guys: http://www.raylarengineering.com

They have some good products and they were the first and almost only ones to do anything with this engine. I had made non specific references to them in my original post. At the end of the day they want to sell their kits. Quality stuff but not worth it IMO. Other ways to make 600 HP. Like I said, learn a bit from the BBC world and a few more from the Ls world, its not a complicated engine
 
With as much volume as you are trying to induce, I'm assuming this will be a high revving engine?
The cam is only good for power till about 5100 rpm. The biggest thing with this engine is to remove the upstream air restrictions. Nothing kills HP faster than that. It is a very large displacement engine still at 496 cu in and it is a bit silly to have it breathing through the same parts that a 327 cu in small block does. Its a big block and does have a healthy need for air. What I am doing is a gigantic flow improvement. May it be more than the engine needs? Possibly but that hurts far less than not having enough. I will have to dig up some dyno charts to show how limited top end HP is on stock 496. They do run out of air real quick and I could see that even when I retuned my truck on the dyno by the high vaccum numbers at WOT pulls.
 
What are you doing for the exhaust side?
Exhaust is already very well optimized. Shorty Edelbrock headers and 2-3/4" full down pipes, Dual 2-3/4" pipe to a dual 3" to single 4" collector, into a 40 series full 4" (6"x12" case cross section) Flowmaster 40 series diesel muffler, 4" MBRP Diesel tail pipe to 5" tip. Believe it or not the diesel series muffler and 4" tail pipe make it sound like a real healthy big block already despite the completely anemic stock cam. Sound wise, the headers completely removed any sounds of a weak cam and mellowed out to a healthy snarl. The HO camshaft is pretty healthy and should sound phenomenal when it is done with a bit of lope even.

Here is a quick crappy video of the sound after installing the headers when I did my body work a year ago. The headers took out any bit of popcorn popping tinny sound during free rev. Under load/acceleration it is even deeper and pronounced.
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Here is what I got done last night. I only got to spend 20 minutes on the neck before a guy from OSO stopped by and wanted to see a Convincor so he knows what to buy and if it will work for him. He likes the CM's after looking at mine. Any who, starting to really open up! Mind you I'm not closed to done yet hence the jagged edges at the top.IMG_20150317_173040581_zpsn4gahws6.jpgIMG_20150317_173045674_zpsywelt2ob.jpgIMG_20150317_173051381_zpstfrmdjxs.jpg
 
Looking good!

I'm getting a bit of ticking noise that sounds like exhaust leak. I was going to throw on a set of JBA headers and free up my exhaust side. I want a deep low rumble kind of sound. Not too loud as it's been my commuter to NC a few times. At least work pays me 58 cents per mile. :rof:
 
I have ridden in Rons beast (might have even gotten lost in it...) and i must say that it does sound good considering the combo! Not nearly as loud inside as i expected! Yet you def know its there from the outside!
 
Yes, surprisingly there isn't much interior resonance at all with the Avalanche. I imagine the pickup being even better because of the complete segregation of the cab from the box. I also am no longer running cats (I gutted the cases and welded back up due to no easy straight pipe solution). If you have emissions testing, you probably wont be able to remove them. With the 8100, the rear (post-cat) oxygen sensors are not even installed from the factory so there are no PCM mods required when removing them to avoid a check engine light. There are bungs for them from the factory but they just are plugged. I also run the headers with no provisions for EGR and just have the valve shut in the PCM. Once I swap the manifold it will be completely deleted.

Before the headers, the engine always sounded great under load but was kind of tinny at free rev. The headers eliminated all of that. You can find headers for the 8100 pretty cheap on clearance anymore. I think I paid 270 for my Edelbrock coated stainless set with the down pipes. The JBA's you must purchase downpipes separately. They are needed. The tubing after the factory manifold flange is on the small side for about 8" before it swedges out to the 2-3/4" dia factory mid-pipes. The down tubes eliminate that bottle neck.

I do get exhaust leaks from time to time on mine but that is from welds rotting out from the darn salted roads. Eventually I need to have it all redone.

Chris, Flowmaster makes a nice big block 70 series muffler I believe that is pretty much a direct replacement to the factory one and isn't that loud but has a nice tone. My friend had one with dual tails on his 2500HD. That would be a good flowing option for you.
 
Well, I finally got back to this last night and finished porting and cleaning up the adapter ind plenum inlet. It turned out awesome IMO! I cannot believe the cross section I gained, and it is fairly consistent albeit not perfectly round because well, the inlet is mostly rectangular, but it blended nicely. I am going to end up cutting open the bottom of the plenum to finish completely removing that baffle, it is bothering me now that this turned out so nice haha. I will have to have a friend weld it back up when I am done.

IMG_20150413_193948311_zpsarhio7re.jpg
IMG_20150413_194250140_zpsrzxw9prd.jpg

You can see how thin the sides got. Glad I put epoxy around the neck. FWIW it was JB Water Weld putty. I only got into it in one small area.
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