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Propeller dynamics: blowout etc

blacktruck

Member
After a discussion on another thread about props, it was suggested to move the discussion to a different thread. This piece was posted on Scream and Fly and written by Jim Russel from Aeromarine Research. The original discussion revolved around the idea that with an elevated engine height; prop blades (one blade) experience a full load, while the other blades experienced an unloaded situation. One person commented that the unloading was dramatic. But it's accurate and this article discusses why. When an in-balance in pressure is experienced it results in propeller blowout, or "propeller burn" prior to blowout.

- From Scream and Fly
By Jim Russell, P. Eng, Aeromarine Research

I receive many questions about the cause and effects of "blowout". Here is an explanation of blowout and causes and cures.

Most all high-performance boaters have experienced the circumstance that restricts their maximum velocity to less than it could be, even though they’ve got the horsepower available to use. This phenomenon is commonly called "gearcase blowout” or "propeller blowout".

Blowout occurs when something causes air/water mixture in the region of the propeller to become sufficiently disturbed that the propeller cannot continue working in “clean” water, but is rather, trying to work through a very soft or light mixture (or a relative vacuum). This causes the propeller efficiency to significantly fall off, (seems to lose its “grip” or loses thrust) and triggers a typically dramatic hull performance behavior. These behaviors can vary from a feeling of "loose" steering to a nasty ferocious turn. The velocity at which “blowout” takes place depends on boat design, hull setup, lower unit design, propeller design, and driving style.


Blowout occurs when the propeller's 'bite' is disrupted.

The Main Contributors To Blowout

Motor Height:
If the engine is positioned too high on the motor mount or transom, the propeller may not generate sufficient lift for the boat. This usually requires that the driver then apply excessive trim (out). This, in turn, causes the direction of thrust of the propeller to be less than optimum - inclined downward instead of aligned exactly in the direction of motion (parallel to the water surface). This trim angle is thus forcing a most inefficient profile to the hydrodynamic flow around the lower unit (more drag) and the propeller (inefficient lift). This is bad for the propeller, and inefficient for the boat performance. Designing the hull and the boat setup with the engine at the optimum height will help overall performance.

Using a jack plate will make these engine adjustments much easier. This is easiest to do with a hydraulic jack plate, but a manual jack plate will provide the same range of adjustment needed. A hydraulic jack allows you to adjust the engine height while in full flight – the best of all worlds! This is the safest feature of the hydraulic engine jack, because it eliminates the need to “compromise” your engine setup. [Remember that as you raise the engine height, a low water pickup may become necessary in order to ensure that the engine gets enough water pressure.]

The best setup will be the one where your lower unit bullet is parallel with the water surface – not trimmed (angled) upwards or downwards.Test your rig at different speeds and water conditions to find the best height for each. You will find that different operating conditions will benefit from different engine heights, which is another good reason for using a hydraulic jack plate. Often, as the engine is raised on the transom, the reduced lower unit drag can allow for a different trim angle to be applied, resulting in an improved effect on the speed at which the onset of blowout will occur. Engine setback can also affect stability, although it is more difficult to test using the ‘trial and error” method.


A jack plate makes engine height adjustment easy.​

Gear Case Condition:

If the gear case has been damaged (tagged any logs or rocks lately?) or has an improperly installed nosecone; or a damaged skeg; the gear case cannot maintain the intended hydrodynamic direction (steering). The performance impact can be the desire (need) for the gear case to "crab" through the water, creating an area void of pure water, like an air pocket where the propeller is now trying to properly perform its duty. This is bad news for the propeller - it needs good ‘solid’ water to work properly. Cleaning up all the scratches, scrapes, nicks and gouges in the gear case so that it is very smooth will improve performance. If you are experiencing some symptoms of ‘blowout’ you’ll be surprised how cleaning up the condition of your gear case can magically improve (delay) the onset of the blowout occurrence.

Ensure that the nosecone (if added to OEM gearcase) is properly installed, that it is straight, with no ridges or epoxy bubbles, etc. Make sure that your skeg is whole and undamaged, with no nicks or gouges. Don’t underestimate the possible significance of this operation – the smallest and seemingly trivial defects in the gear case surfaces can trip the “onset of blowout”!

Hull Design:

Some hull designs are more susceptible to blowout than others are. As with much of boat design, there are no definitive rules for how to design for “no blowout”, since there are so many operating and performance issues that the designer must take into consideration. It’s difficult to merely look at your boat to determine whether it might be susceptible to “premature onset of blowout” or not. The well-designed hull will have a dynamically balanced performance through all phases of performance (all operating speeds). The inherently unstable hull will need much more time and effort for "on the water" set-up. It is, of course, better to design the stability and performance characteristics into your hull ahead of time…this makes the set-up much easier, and the hull performance more predictable in all operating conditions. But sadly, this is not always the case, and effective setup can really help to delay the onset of premature blowout. Weight distribution, engine positioning, bottom cleanliness are some features that can be altered, if need be, after the boat is diagnosed with problems. The hull that is dynamically stable throughout its uppermost velocity range can reduce the tendency for blowout and also minimize the otherwise dramatic effects of the blowout occurrence.


A well-designed hull will have dynamically balanced performance at all speeds.

Velocity:
Once a stock gear case is asked to go faster than the speed for which it was originally designed to perform, water separates from the leading edge of the rounded bullet and upsets the flow around the propeller. In engineering terms, this is a disturbed flow, and when this occurs near the propeller, it really impacts the propeller's performance and efficiency. Smaller gear cases with smaller, more aerodynamic bullets will always improve this situation, delaying "blowout" tendencies to a higher velocity. Adding a nosecone can also increase the velocity (delay the onset of blowout) that a standard gear case can operate effectively (more on nosecones later).The cause of blowout is generally a combination of all of these sources. Gear case modifications and propeller changes can reduce your chance of blowout or reduce the tendencies for blowout, or delay the onset of blowout (velocity). A properly designed and dynamically balanced hull also helps the blowout situation. The reality of high performance powerboating is, however, that as you strive for the maximum performance of your setup, blowout is often just piece of the business, so you will experience it eventually.


A nose cone can delay the onset of blowout.​

Nose-Cone Technology:

As water flows by the lower unit and begins to separate from the unit at higher speeds, a turbulent flow condition or "vortex" causes a (relative) vacuum (or lower pressure) behind the gear case. This lower pressure increases the drag of the lower unit. A by-product of the air/water mixture and the water separation from the gearcase surfaces is propeller burning. This phenomenon leads to blow-out, and can also reduce top speed before blow-out is obtained. By increasing the length of the bullet on the lower unit, the hydrodynamic aspect ratio (length to diameter ratio) of the bullet is increased (improved), providing superior water flow characteristics and delaying the onset of propeller burn and blowout.A well-designed nose cone can delay the speed at which blow-out occurs and improve propeller efficiency.

Cavitation Is Not Blowout:

But we always get it! Cavitation is the sudden formation and collapse of low-pressure bubbles in liquids in regions of very low pressure or regions that are subjected to rapid or intense pressure changes. The design of a gearcase is a compromise hydrodynamically. This is because the lower unit must be big enough to contain gears, exhaust, water intakes, etc. – and that makes it challenging to design the shape to be as hydrodynamically perfect as we’d like. On the outside surfaces of the gearcase are the fill holes, drain holes, water vents, etc. – and any disturbance of the flow of water on a gearcase can cause cavitation as the speed of the boat increases.

Cavitation itself does not cause the blowout. Blowout occurs when existing cavitation bubbles travel back to the trailing end of the torpedo and meet up with the engine exhaust gases. Once this happens the exhaust floods over the low-pressure side (depends on left/right prop rotation) of the gearcase. The mixture also flows back into the propeller blades. The result is a sudden and drastic reduction of lift and thrust generated by the low-pressure side of the propeller blades – blowout.


Cavitation precedes blowout.​

You might not even have blowout. Very few boats run into a total blowout situation; more often the setups encounter "propeller burn" - a phenomenon that occurs prior to blow-out. Many high performance boaters may be experience propeller burn and not even be aware of it. You may have noticed pitting on your propeller blades caused by this propeller burn. The addition of a nose cone can reduce or even eliminate propeller burn, blow-out, and allow you to improve your speed if the horsepower is available.

When blowout does occur, the blades no longer have the clean water needed for energy transfer through the water. The propeller breaks loose completely and cannot recover until the boat is slowed down enough to allow water to re-enter the propeller void created by the ventilation occurrence.

Blowout can sneak up on you! Classically, just prior to encountering a blowout you will experience a loose steering feeling, an RPM increase without any speed increase, a loss of lift, and a resulting drop of the bow of the boat. When all of these happen quickly, it can be a hair-raising incident! With experience, you can learn to sense when you are approaching the onset of blowout…so pay close attention, take appropriate actions, always wear your PFD…and hold on!

Further Reading:

Read more about performance vee hull and tunnel boat design and setup in the world acclaimed "Secrets of Tunnel Boat Design" book and the new "Tunnel Boat/Vee Hull Design Program", Version 8 - world's only computer software dedicated to design and performance analysis of Tunnel hulls and performance Vee hulls.

Links For Reference:
The "Secrets of Tunnel Boat Design" book (ISBN 1-894933-30-3), "Secrets of Propeller Design" book (ISBN 0-9780586-0-7), “Tunnel Boat Design” software, “Vee Boat Design” software, and "PropWorks2" software are available at AeroMarine Research.
 
I learned a lot by reading that. THe pics are excellent as well. However, you could have thrown a guy a bone and put a picture of an Evinrude in there. ;)
 
Excellent information, thanks for posting and for a much more appropriate location to discuss our understandings and misunderstandings about these topics.
 
Excellent information, thanks for posting and for a much more appropriate location to discuss our understandings and misunderstandings about these topics.

Ya for sure. I think it was more just terminology misunderstanding but better on it's own thread!

There is a typo in the first post of the thread but I can't seem to edit it. "But it's accurate and this article discusses why" should read, "But it's not accurate.."
 
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I learned a lot by reading that. THe pics are excellent as well. However, you could have thrown a guy a bone and put a picture of an Evinrude in there. ;)

I know right. I actually am looking for my next project and really want to use the G1 150 HO on something really light. Seems like a nice motor, not too heavy.
 
I learned a lot by reading that. THe pics are excellent as well. However, you could have thrown a guy a bone and put a picture of an Evinrude in there. ;)



Look in the background!!!!

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Ya for sure. I think it was more just terminology misunderstanding but better on it's own thread!

There is a typo in the first post of the thread but I can't seem to edit it. "But it's accurate and this article discusses why" should read, "But it's not accurate.."

So do you believe this explains what causes a blade to start to crack? or even worse completely brake off? Or was that better explained in the posts and links that got deleted in the other thread?
 
So do you believe this explains what causes a blade to start to crack? or even worse completely brake off? Or was that better explained in the posts and links that got deleted in the other thread?

Yes, the subject matter in the other thread was about what causes blades to crack, not blowout. The first post on this thread doesn't offer an opinion about what causes blades to crack. Blacktrucks suggestion in the other post was that the person must have hit something to crack the blade. That didn't make sense because when you look at the cracked blades in the pictures that people posted the cracks in every case emanated from the trailing edge of the blade, not the leading edge. I doubt these people were driving their boats on plane in reverse.

In my experience, blades crack when the prop is being surfaced a lot. When you consider a blade exiting the water and re-entering, you will realize that it has water on the thrust side of the blade and air on the opposite side for a fraction of a second. With water weighing 8.3 lbs per gallon and air weighing zero, each time a blade pierces the water's surface, it has unequal loading that's trying to make the blade "fold" over. At WOT the blades on a surfacing prop pierces the water 50-60 times per second and over time it seems to me that these repeated moments of unequal loading on the blades would eventually cause the weakest of the blades to crack (at which point the driver stops using that prop).
 
In engineering, everything is considered a spring. Only thing that changes is stiffness. A surfacing prop blade is constantly being loaded and unloaded causing deflection or flex in the blade. This constant flexing leads to fatigue failures if the blade. The cracks begin in the thinnest area of the blade that would have the most deflection (as in the thin leading edge) and then propagate from there all the way across the blade though the thicker trailing edge of the blade. With each passing millimeter that crack lengthens through the blade, the structure is weaker and begins to flex more and more, resulting in further propagation of the crack through the thicker areas. Now, if you had a nick in the blade, it may have caused a stress riser to develop at that point which would then be where the crack begins and will propagate from. A blade however may be pristine and still crack. The main culprit being the chosen material has imperfections reducing strength, material is too brittle to withstand the flexing for that many loading/unloading cycles leading to the fatigue failures. Aftermarket labbing of the prop could also play a role as it could change material strength due to additional heat treat effects of working the blades (would make more brittle) or thinning the blade for speed too much.

What it comes down to is you can only get so much strength from a CAST propeller like the majority of us run. Only way to increase strength is a thicker casting causing speed loss or to move to an extremely expensive FORGED propeller which would run $4,000-6,000 dollars. Even then, failures still can happen when pushing the envelope for speed.
 
In engineering, everything is considered a spring. Only thing that changes is stiffness. A surfacing prop blade is constantly being loaded and unloaded causing deflection or flex in the blade. This constant flexing leads to fatigue failures if the blade. The cracks begin in the thinnest area of the blade that would have the most deflection (as in the thin leading edge) and then propagate from there all the way across the blade though the thicker trailing edge of the blade. With each passing millimeter that crack lengthens through the blade, the structure is weaker and begins to flex more and more, resulting in further propagation of the crack through the thicker areas. Now, if you had a nick in the blade, it may have caused a stress riser to develop at that point which would then be where the crack begins and will propagate from. A blade however may be pristine and still crack. The main culprit being the chosen material has imperfections reducing strength, material is too brittle to withstand the flexing for that many loading/unloading cycles leading to the fatigue failures. Aftermarket labbing of the prop could also play a role as it could change material strength due to additional heat treat effects of working the blades (would make more brittle) or thinning the blade for speed too much.

What it comes down to is you can only get so much strength from a CAST propeller like the majority of us run. Only way to increase strength is a thicker casting causing speed loss or to move to an extremely expensive FORGED propeller which would run $4,000-6,000 dollars. Even then, failures still can happen when pushing the envelope for speed.

Awesome ... great technical explanation! But of the damaged props I have seen I recall the crack always seems to emanate from the trailing edge. I've not seen any stress cracks emanate from the leading edge, only damage from hitting submerged objects. I'm kinda guessing here, but I would think the leading edge of a blade would be more designed for clean penetration of water and the thrust/acceleration comes from the blade having progressively increasing cup as the water moves toward the trailing edge (thereby putting the most stress on the trailing edge). If so, it seems to me there might actually be more deflection on the trailing edge of the blade than the leading edge, hence the reason that stress cracks emanate from the trailing edge. Does that sound at all plausible?
 
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In engineering, everything is considered a spring. Only thing that changes is stiffness. A surfacing prop blade is constantly being loaded and unloaded causing deflection or flex in the blade. This constant flexing leads to fatigue failures if the blade. The cracks begin in the thinnest area of the blade that would have the most deflection (as in the thin leading edge) and then propagate from there all the way across the blade though the thicker trailing edge of the blade. With each passing millimeter that crack lengthens through the blade, the structure is weaker and begins to flex more and more, resulting in further propagation of the crack through the thicker areas. Now, if you had a nick in the blade, it may have caused a stress riser to develop at that point which would then be where the crack begins and will propagate from. A blade however may be pristine and still crack. The main culprit being the chosen material has imperfections reducing strength, material is too brittle to withstand the flexing for that many loading/unloading cycles leading to the fatigue failures. Aftermarket labbing of the prop could also play a role as it could change material strength due to additional heat treat effects of working the blades (would make more brittle) or thinning the blade for speed too much.

What it comes down to is you can only get so much strength from a CAST propeller like the majority of us run. Only way to increase strength is a thicker casting causing speed loss or to move to an extremely expensive FORGED propeller which would run $4,000-6,000 dollars. Even then, failures still can happen when pushing the envelope for speed.

The whole post and discussion that led to it was to debunk the "load / unload" situation. It is not what happens.
-"Cavitation itself does not cause the blowout. Blowout occurs when existing cavitation bubbles travel back to the trailing end of the torpedo and meet up with the engine exhaust gases. Once this happens the exhaust floods over the low-pressure side (depends on left/right prop rotation) of the gearcase. The mixture also flows back into the propeller blades. The result is a sudden and drastic reduction of lift and thrust generated by the low-pressure side of the propeller blades – blowout."
 
So do you believe this explains what causes a blade to start to crack? or even worse completely brake off? Or was that better explained in the posts and links that got deleted in the other thread?

Depends on what you mean by "this." There are quite a few factors. In general no, running at elevated engine heights on a conventional performance boat does not. Blades break mostly when they are the wrong prop for the application, they have been modified and weakened, or there is a an extreme unload load event like leaving the water surface (jumping), wave gap etc. A properly setup boat, with a prop designed for the application, in this case it was a Starliner with a stock G2, a stock high performance prop would have an extremely low chance of breaking. We are not referring to race boats at all.

If a blade breaks, that is an actual "unload" event and you will suffer a "blowout" and depending how fast you're going, potentially a dangerous situation.

Plus, you have to mind how high you are running the engine, if you're blowing out, breaking props etc, your setup is all wrong, your prop was modified poorly or all of the above. You can run a conventional high-performance boat setup properly for decades without worrying about breaking your prop.
 
Yes, the subject matter in the other thread was about what causes blades to crack, not blowout. The first post on this thread doesn't offer an opinion about what causes blades to crack. Blacktrucks suggestion in the other post was that the person must have hit something to crack the blade. That didn't make sense because when you look at the cracked blades in the pictures that people posted the cracks in every case emanated from the trailing edge of the blade, not the leading edge. I doubt these people were driving their boats on plane in reverse.

In my experience, blades crack when the prop is being surfaced a lot. When you consider a blade exiting the water and re-entering, you will realize that it has water on the thrust side of the blade and air on the opposite side for a fraction of a second. With water weighing 8.3 lbs per gallon and air weighing zero, each time a blade pierces the water's surface, it has unequal loading that's trying to make the blade "fold" over. At WOT the blades on a surfacing prop pierces the water 50-60 times per second and over time it seems to me that these repeated moments of unequal loading on the blades would eventually cause the weakest of the blades to crack (at which point the driver stops using that prop).

No, I simply wanted to clarify the load / unload myth, which has thoroughly been debunked now. Maybe you didn't read the attached article. You said "In my experience, blades crack when the prop is being surfaced a lot." That is way to general to draw any conclusion from. How many times have you seen that on a non race boat, stock power with properly setup engine height and prop? By your explanation, I sincerely doubt you have much experience, certainly not more than the author of the article.

Running at an elevated engine height, as the very thorough article outlines, if you lose pressure, you will experience extreme cavitation that can lead to blowout. If your blade breaks for whatever reason, probably from a thinned blade or a bad setup, you will experience an unpleasant blowout.

- From the first paragraph: "Blowout occurs when something causes air/water mixture in the region of the propeller to become sufficiently disturbed that the propeller cannot continue working in “clean” water, but is rather, trying to work through a very soft or light mixture (or a relative vacuum). This causes the propeller efficiency to significantly fall off, (seems to lose its “grip” or loses thrust) and triggers a typically dramatic hull performance behavior. These behaviors can vary from a feeling of "loose" steering to a nasty ferocious turn. The velocity at which “blowout” takes place depends on boat design, hull setup, lower unit design, propeller design, and driving style."
 
The whole post and discussion that led to it was to debunk the "load / unload" situation. It is not what happens.
-"Cavitation itself does not cause the blowout. Blowout occurs when existing cavitation bubbles travel back to the trailing end of the torpedo and meet up with the engine exhaust gases. Once this happens the exhaust floods over the low-pressure side (depends on left/right prop rotation) of the gearcase. The mixture also flows back into the propeller blades. The result is a sudden and drastic reduction of lift and thrust generated by the low-pressure side of the propeller blades – blowout."

I explained what forces will fatigue a blade causing breakage which was asked. Prop blades can break on a well setup PERFORMANCE boat even if it doesn't experience cavitation or blowout events. That can happen regardless if cavitation is involved. Cavitation is different than blow out as the article says. Can cavitation lead to blow out? Yes if severe enough. Gearcase shape also plays a big role. Many surfacing setups do not have below waterline exhaust either (outboards centered in this discussion do for the most part however)Most sustained cavitation will cause erosion of the blade and/or gearcase and can be seen as "cavitation burn." Unbalanced loading situations (such as a surfacing propeller) create noise, vibration, and harmonics within the system (NVH) which cause fatigue of the blades. Remember, everything is a spring and does have deflection under load. It is just a matter of how much or how little.
 
I explained what forces will fatigue a blade causing breakage which was asked. Prop blades can break on a well setup PERFORMANCE boat even if it doesn't experience cavitation or blowout events. That can happen regardless if cavitation is involved. Cavitation is different than blow out as the article says. Can cavitation lead to blow out? Yes if severe enough. Gearcase shape also plays a big role. Many surfacing setups do not have below waterline exhaust either (outboards centered in this discussion do for the most part however)Most sustained cavitation will cause erosion of the blade and/or gearcase and can be seen as "cavitation burn." Unbalanced loading situations (such as a surfacing propeller) create noise, vibration, and harmonics within the system (NVH) which cause fatigue of the blades. Remember, everything is a spring and does have deflection under load. It is just a matter of how much or how little.

That is helpful and makes sense, thanks. Funny how after all this I'm TOTALLY still going to be surfacing my prop. Part of it is for the speed but most of it is because I think it looks cool and because I can!!:rof:
 
I explained what forces will fatigue a blade causing breakage which was asked. Prop blades can break on a well setup PERFORMANCE boat even if it doesn't experience cavitation or blowout events. That can happen regardless if cavitation is involved. Cavitation is different than blow out as the article says. Can cavitation lead to blow out? Yes if severe enough. Gearcase shape also plays a big role. Many surfacing setups do not have below waterline exhaust either (outboards centered in this discussion do for the most part however)Most sustained cavitation will cause erosion of the blade and/or gearcase and can be seen as "cavitation burn." Unbalanced loading situations (such as a surfacing propeller) create noise, vibration, and harmonics within the system (NVH) which cause fatigue of the blades. Remember, everything is a spring and does have deflection under load. It is just a matter of how much or how little.

You seem to be confusing the terminology. At an elevated engine height on a high performance boat, all propellers cavitate, that is in fact how they are designed to work as they do. From the article:
"Blowout occurs when existing cavitation bubbles travel back to the trailing end of the torpedo and meet up with the engine exhaust gases. Once this happens the exhaust floods over the low-pressure side (depends on left/right prop rotation) of the gearcase. The mixture also flows back into the propeller blades. The result is a sudden and drastic reduction of lift and thrust generated by the low-pressure side of the propeller blades – blowout."

You also seem to be mixing surface drive and gear-case drive units, obviously different dynamics.

Running your prop too high can cause an unbalanced load event, which causes blowout. Proper setup is finding the perfect height for your boats design, weight, power, speed etc. Exceeding that, trying to find the limit will cause blowout eventually. The article is very clear. Properly setup, breaking blades is extremely rare and it would be from an unloading event (jumping clear out of the water, wave gap etc), not from running normally - piercing the surface as high-performance props are designed to do.

I've said it before, read the book "Everything You Need to Know about Propellers." from Quicksilver and read the Mercury Racing Prop school posts and you will have a much clearer understanding.
 
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That is helpful and makes sense, thanks. Funny how after all this I'm TOTALLY still going to be surfacing my prop. Part of it is for the speed but most of it is because I think it looks cool and because I can!!:rof:

Haha, you have to, you'd be dragging your lower unit otherwise, causing drag and chine walking, slowing the boat down and making it handle poorly. :shakehead:
:rof:
 
Haha, you have to, you'd be dragging your lower unit otherwise, causing drag and chine walking, slowing the boat down and making it handle poorly. :shakehead:
:rof:

Yes, I've been driving v-pad boats with outboard motors and hydraulic jack plates for 15 years so know all that. Had my previous boat (Hydrostream V-King) to 92 MPH and that wouldn't have been possible if I didn't know how to use a transom jack and didn't know what blowout was. I just like to have my motor jacked up and surfacing the prop at 45 MPH because of the huge rooster tail!
 
Yes, I've been driving v-pad boats with outboard motors and hydraulic jack plates for 15 years so know all that. Had my previous boat (Hydrostream V-King) to 92 MPH and that wouldn't have been possible if I didn't know how to use a transom jack and didn't know what blowout was. I just like to have my motor jacked up and surfacing the prop at 45 MPH because of the huge rooster tail!

Wow, you must be an expert. You probably only need on blade on your prop then. Lol. :thumb: So now you knew all along why blowout happens, but were just pretending not to know before?? Very strange. :cheers:
 
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