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Ready to Buy! What do I Check for?

T

Taz

Member
Ok this is a new post started under "1992 Persuader 234 BR". Thanks to Jim and others for providing some very helpfull info.

I have the cash in hand and I have made arrangments to meet the guy and run the boat on the trailer this Sun. It is to cold to put the boat in the water.

As I stated in the other post I have known this guy (not friends just kept in touch)since he bought the boat new in 1992.

What should I look for while checking the boat out????
 
Ok this is a new post started under "1992 Persuader 234 BR". Thanks to Jim and others for providing some very helpfull info.

I have the cash in hand and I have made arrangments to meet the guy and run the boat on the trailer this Sun. It is to cold to put the boat in the water.

As I stated in the other post I have known this guy (not friends just kept in touch)since he bought the boat new in 1992.

What should I look for while checking the boat out????
 
Pull the Bravo Drive back and forth by hand and lift up on it, there should not be alot of play. Check the lower hole where the outdrive fluid is filled. The Screw/Plug is a magnet, there should not be any chunks attatched. Also the Oil should not be milky in anyway, this will indicate a drive leak. Look in the bottom of the bilge area at the stringers and grab them, they should not be damp, or have moisture in them, or random holes drilled. Also check out the prop, and make sure the drive shaft is spinning true and not bent. I like to pull the flame arrestor and look down in the carb. It should be clean, without alot of carbon build up. Depending how involved you want to get. I would pull a plug from either side of the engine and look at the condition. Alot can be said for plugs and how an owner takes care of the boat, both in changing them and Tuneups. See if the Battery has a date on it, so you know how long you have left in that. Check the Hull for fiberglass chips. If there are gouges and missing Gel coat, water will seep into the fiberglass, they can be easily fixed but you should know the extent of what you are getting into. The final things are to check out the accessories and see if they are in working condition, gauges, radio, lights. Also shift the boat, it should shift easily into reverse and forward gears. I am sure I have missed some stuff and others will add but this is a start for used boat buyers.
 
To add to what checkrocket wrote:
Look at anything that is mounted to or on the boat. Look at the type of screw or bolt used. What you are looking for is stuff thats mounted and not sealed right. This will allow water to enter into the wood and cause rot. I would during the rebuild of my trimate that most of the damage was caused by dtuff mounted to the wood. Heck there was 27 holes in the transom.
 
the only thing that was missed, was to check the bellows at the transom. there are 3 - big one for u-joint, medium one for exhaust and little one for shift cable. at the age of that boat they either have just been replaced or will need to be shortly - $1000 touch if a marina does it (canadian $). If you can, get the thing to a marina and have them yank the drive, a bravo is way to heavy to try and manhandle. have check the u-joints and gimbel bearing for wear. also check the yoke shaft and seal (you'll no it's leaking if the u-joint bellows is full of oil). by the way, i'm assuming that this is a mercruiser drive package.
 
Look at the top of the drive for any chalking of the paint. This will indicate the drive was overheated. A drive shower would be a plus here to help eliminate this problem. If the boat is in a cold climate, make sure that the motor is winterized again after it is run. Take a close look at the exhaust manifolds and risers. While it is best to pull the risers off and look down the manifolds for signs or reversion or leaks, at least look for any rusting or external leaks. If they are stock Merc, plan on upgrading them soon. Pull all the plugs . Check the motor oil for signs of water or contaminants. Check all hoses or fittings that go through the transom for a good seal.
 
Thanks for the good tips I plan to make a checklist.

It seems like several people mentioned water getting to the core thru unsealed holes. Is this a common problem w/ checkmates? If I find some (not a lot) of rot is this a repaire I can make myself? I have repaired fiberglass and marine plywood but not balsa. Checkmates have a balsa core, right?
 
Taz, unsealed holes are a problem for all boats.
Most of the damage is in area's like the floor and rear supports. Not much is mounted to the very bottom of the boat. Checkmate does a real great job at sealing in there balsa cores. I would still look and do some taping on the bottom of the boat.
 
It seems like sombody is always on this site with ready info. I think just having this site as a resource is a good reason to by a Checkmate.

I like the comment from Chris E. about pulling the drive unit and inspecting it. I have pulled and manhandled Cobra and Alpha drives. I think me and one other guy could pull the drive and reinstall in less than 2 hrs. Right?
 
2 people can handle it, but it is awkward - i don't know what one weighs but i think it would be close to double an alpha drive. Tip: throw a piece of plywood under the drive, then with the drive all the way the down, raise the tongue jack till the drive touches the wood - that way you won't be lifting the drive. should make life a little easier. i assume you know how to yank the drive - it's different than an alpha.
 
I've never pulled a Brovo, but not knowing how to do something has never stopped me before.

I hope your not going to tell me there is more to it than I think!
 
the shift cable set up is different - i haven't pulled one, so maybe someone else can help. i think you pull the drive back an inch or so, then push the cable up to get it out of the jaws that hold in place, but i'm not 100% sure and if i'm not mistaken you pull the drive in neutral not forward like an alpha
 
To pull a Bravo, firstput the shifter in neutral. Remove the trim pistons from the drive, but leave them attached to the gimbal. Next unbolt the 6 nuts that hold the drive to the gimbal. Slide the drive back a bit while taking care to watch the starboard side between the 2 upper studs. With a small screwdriver unhook the shifter cable from the drive. It looks like a vise grip jaw that holds around a lead barrel that is swedged on the end of the shift cable. Then just slide it off. You can do this by yourself, I do it all the time alone. It is heavy, but it can be done.
 
Ok, I think I can handle that. I'm going to trailer run the boat tomorrow at 4 pm. I will post some more after I check the boat.

Hey, I brought this up before, the guy insisted over the phone today the 454 mag in this 92 234 is 390 hp. he said he paid $6k extra for the motor upgrade from the factory. Is any one aware of a 390 hp 454 in 1992 persuader??
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Taz:
Ok, I think I can handle that. I'm going to trailer run the boat tomorrow at 4 pm. I will post some more after I check the boat.

Hey, I brought this up before, the guy insisted over the phone today the 454 mag in this 92 234 is 390 hp. he said he paid $6k extra for the motor upgrade from the factory. Is any one aware of a 390 hp 454 in 1992 persuader?? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

check out my response to your other post!
 
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