Separating a powerhead from a mid section Blackmax 200 2.4L

[DropTop5.0]

Hello gang,
I have an old 2.4L in the garage and I decided to pull the powerhead. I removed all the connections and such along with the 10 bolts as described in my manual for my 2.5L. I proceed to lift the powerhead with my lifting crane but it's stuck. I hit it pretty good with a rubber mallet and shook it around but the seal has not broken one bit. All 10 nuts came off pretty easily and didn't need any PB Blaster or anything so I don't think its rusted on. I left it hanging overnight about 2" off the floor. Does anyone have any suggestions?

 

[illMATTic]

On the few I took apart the holes were corroded inside the exhaust plate. I used a thin stiff paint scraper to get between the block and the plate.

If you have the mid bolted to a bench or boat you can lift up putting some pressure on it. Once you get a small gap you can put thew PB in there. It was slow going but it worked.

Also... it has to come straight up. The bolts tend to bind a bit if not.


Good luck.

 

[DropTop5.0]

Thanks Matt. I was going to try the paint scraper thing but have not done so yet. I just have it sitting on a cheap harbor freight stand.

 

[illMATTic]

You could put some weight on the bottom of the stand. A combination of corrosion and the gasket sticking really requires some force. Especially if it hasn't been apart for a while.

The walls on that exhaust plate are real thin. Be careful even with a rubber mallet.

 

[Great East Predictor]

If its a saltwater motor and has never been apart they can be near impossible to split. Lots of heat helps. I've seen them so hard to split we just cut the midsection off.

 

[DropTop5.0]

I pulled the lower unit last night just to make sure that wasn't hanging anything up. I have it hanging with a couple bags of rocks in the stand.

 

[Problem Child]

Try 1-cup butter
2- Tbs sugar
1- pinch salt for the eggbeater

 

[SippyRat]

Run a piece of timber or steel tubing under the legs of the cherry picker and bolt the mid section to it. Try to set it up so you get a straight pull (may need to bring the picker arm in a little)

I have zero first hand experience with this......but this is what I would try

 

[sonicss31]

Next thing is to post this question on Scream and Fly. The corrosion holding you up is the studs going thru the tower. I would not recommend wedging anything between the exhaust plate and the powerhead because the risk of damaging the mating surface of either one is too great to risk unless of course you want to buy a new exhaust plate. Here is your problem. Without any sort of gap between the mating surfaces there is no way in hell to get any sort of penetrant in there. I would set the entire engine upside down supported with proper wooden blocks so that I could pour, spray or inject your corrosion buster of choice alongside the studs to soak. This may sound unorthodox but patience will be your friend. There are many choices of corrosion buster out there and many are home brewed. Do a search and take your pick. Some love PB blaster but there are better choices. "KROIL" is what we use at my powerplant. Heat may work but it may also have the reverse effect because there is no way to heat both side of the tower at the same time. You might be able to wedge something between the 2 shorter studs at the front under the carb area to get something to start to break free. Good luck and PM me if you need more ideas. Its been some time since I've tackled this but it can be done.