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still chinewalkin...

riverbarron

New member
MY 79' PREDICTOR STILL HAS A CHINEWALKIN PROBLEM. I REMOVED THE MORSE SINGLE CABLE SYSTEM AND INSTALLED A UFLEX HYDRAULIC SYSTEM. THE 86' DT 140 SUZUKI ENGINE MOUNTS APPEAR SOLID. AT ABOUT 1/2 TRIM RANGE AND 45 MPH THE WALKIN STARTS. I BOUGHT A SET OF NAUTICUS SMART TABS, BUT HAVE NOT MOUNTED THEM ..YET. WHAT DA YA'LL THINK IT WILL TAKE TO REMEDY THIS SITUATION???????
 
Chinewalking elimination 101...

If you are trying to go over 60 MPH and are experiencing chinewalk you need

a. Solid motor mounts. No matter how good you think your rubber mounts are...they arent.

b. Adequate steering. Hydraulic or dual cable.

c. Get the prop out of the water. That means a jack plate and a nosecone. Use a surfacing prop.

d. Forget everything you know about trim. The farthest up you want to trim is until the prop shaft is parallel with the bottom of the boat. On mine that means 1/4 up on the trim gauge. Any more than that you are pushing the stern down into the water and causing handling issues. With a surfaced prop running at or an inch or so above the pad you should have a rooster tail at 5 to 6 foot over the surface of the water at 50-60 foot back.

Mine runs up to 80-90 MPH with no indication of chine walk anywhere. It hasnt always been like that. It used to be a handling nightmare but now it runs with the front a few inches higher than the back but completely out of the water. Throw the trim tabs away. They will slow you down pushing the entire boat down and they act like a brake. Fast boats go fast by pushing themselves onto a very minimal amount of wetted surface. Its not because they are smaller or lighter or have huge amounts of power on tap. Its that they use their power first to get out of the water and then it doesnt take so much power to run fast.
 
My Guess this is a motor height issue. How high is the motor mounted and where is the prop shaft relative to the bottom of the boat.
 
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