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Transom Time

TruckinMatt

Member
Ok summer I purchased a 73 MX-16 for a steal knowing it was just a hull and needed work. I knew it needed floors and interior but to my suprise it needed a transom as well. I have separated the top from the hull and have cut out the transom from the inside.
Two weeks ago I purchased a 72 MX-16 that had alot of the parts I was missing such as the windshield steering, rigging, ETC ETC. I was hoping I could just put my motor on this one and use this one for the summer while I redid everying on the other one. When I picked up the boat most of the transom was as soilid as the person I had bought it from said it was. But after a quick check of the old bolt holes from the motor it seems there is some good rot around those holes. Across the top and along the sides of the transom is solid and I was wondering if there was any quick fix to get me through the summer. I have heard lots of talk of engine plates and was wondering if this could get me through a season or do I build both boats this summer. I purchased the First one with my brother and this last one solo. I figured we could each have one this way. I also just happen to have two Evinrude 115s. But back to the topic, either way I have one if not two transoms to start working on in order to be boating anytime soon.
When doing a transom I have been told to only use marine ply and then read here not to use it because it doesnt accept the resin well. Ive been to my local boat store and the guy there who repairs transoms said he likes the West System for his fiberglass work. Does anyone recomend it or maybe some other product. Is there any major disadvantages to using regular resin and glass. I want to build these boats once and keep them for life. I want them to be strong and last a long time. I am on a bit of a budget but I only like doing things the right way so thats why I'm here. From what I have read here you guys know your stuff. Heres a pic of the MX-16s. I played around with MSpaint and chopped the windshield on the one on left. I think thats probably how far I will chop it down. http://myspace-861.vo.llnwd.net/00701/16/86/701996861_l.jpg
 
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Congrats on the new boats. As far as the transom plate goes, are you planning on using a jack plate. If so you could fill the factory holes with resin and re drill new holes a bit higher and add a transom plate. The transom plate will help distribute the weight over a larger area.
As far as the west system stuff goes. We its the top of the line and the price shows. The boat was built with polyester resin. During the restoration of my trimate I have gone through 27 gal of polyester resin. Granted most of it has been sanded off, but still. As long as the wood is sealed regular resin will work great and last a long time.
 
I dont plan on using a jackplate anytime this season. I took a screwdriver and stuck it in the bolt holes and I can go down an inch to inch and a half into soft wood and the glass has delamenated from the wood in this area only. Time for a good plate or too late??? What kind of wood did you use in your transom and floors?
 
Use marine ply for the transom you can use reg exterior for other parts. Marine ply for the transom because there are no voids in the laminates like reg ply. West is one of the best but you can also use plain ole poly..
 
Blizz thanks for the info on the ply, I always thought marine ply was the way to go but I was reading one thread here and someone was saying that treated and marine ply had issues as far as adhesion with the resin. Before I went through all the work of building it I just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to go the wrong route. I know I need to laminate two pieces together to get my desired thickness do you just use resin to hold them together or should I put down some matting. Thanks again Matt
 
Make sure you double check the epoxy issue....I was always told that epoxy and/or fibreglass would not adhere correctly to marine plywood. I have no info to back it up thou.
 
My choices on resin for the transom, in order, would be epoxy, vinylester resin and then polyester resin. The relative strength of epoxy, brittleness(is that even a word?) and its ability to bond to cured polyester resin is far better than poly on poly. Also its working time until cure is much more forgiving for us amatures and creates a much stronger laminate. West System is good stuff but there are much cheaper places to get epoxy resin.

Any of these resin types will bond just fine w/ marine ply.

If you have some time for a bit of research on materials and procedures check out the "projects" forum on www.classicmako.com Go to forums, then "Mako Projects"
These guys carve up and rebuild glass boats for kicks.


For materials check:

http://www.fgci.com/ or

(U.S. Composites)
http://www.shopmaninc.com/resins.html

Hope that helps. T.
 
I used the west system epoxy resin on my skimate, that i am just about finished with the floor and stringer on. I never did this before and it seemed to work great for me. It's expensive but the stuff is hard as a rock, cured smooth andwas very easy to work with. wish ya luck with that transom
 
I was wondering what kind of plywood the factory used back in the 70's and what kind do they use today in there new boats? How many gallons of resin will be required to do a transom on a 16' boat? Thank you for the links they have been very helpful.
 
Transom

Seeings noone answered yes you need to put a layer of matt between your plies. And all the resin info is right on epoxy is best but will cost a little more. It's hard to say how much you'll need depends how much you waste. You should be able to purchase West system locally to you buy what you want if you need more it's not far away start with 3-5 gallons..
 
ok after I laminate the two together then I adhere it to the rear hull fiberglass. I would assume that I use similar techniques to afix it to the rear of the hull like I did when laminating the two piece of ply together. Then I would mat and resin over the whole thing. I am i missing anything? and what would I used to fill in any gaps i may have on the bottom or sides of the ply to the hull? thanks agian
 
Transom

You are correct for bonding transom. You can fill any small gaps with a slurry of resin and thickener of your choice.
 
Started Separating top half today

My brother and I spent the afternoon drilling out rivets and separating the upper and lower halfs of the hull. The rub rail came off really nice and the rivets came out good too but I cant get the splashwell to separate from the inside of the transom. I did it on the other boat and it came right out but this one seems to be cemented. Any thoughts on removal.

f236re2.jpg
 
Started Separating top half today

My brother and I spent the afternoon ripping out the interior, drilling out rivets and separating the upper and lower halfs of the hull. The rub rail came off really nice and the rivets came out good too but I cant get the splashwell to separate from the inside of the transom. I did it on the other boat and it came right out but this one seems to be cemented. Any thoughts on removal.

f236re2.jpg

4b31re2.jpg

51b6re2.jpg

http://f3.yahoofs.com/users/41c47975z1f676d08/80aere2/__sr_/6216re2.jpg?phge_XEB946zGC8l
http://f3.yahoofs.com/users/41c47975z1f676d08/80aere2/__sr_/88efre2.jpg?phIu_XEBf3KjpK_f
http://f3.yahoofs.com/users/41c47975z1f676d08/80aere2/__sr_/6996re2.jpg?phIu_XEB9FIQAGsp
 
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