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Voltage Regulators

nlehman76

nlehman76

Member
So I was changing the fuel lines on my motor the other day and noticed that I have some tan goo running down both sides of my engine. Wasnt sure what it was, but sure it was not normal and look like it was coming from under the flywheel area. So I start the research and phone calls.

Well it sounds like the tan stuff is coming from the stator because the stator is getting to hot.
So I get out my service manual and start looking up how to do some stator test.

I tested the wires going to the charging system first (four yellow wires going to regulators). That ohm test came out ok. Then I did the ohm test on the voltage regulators (since I was there). Well this test came back out of tolerance. When checking the diodes in the regulator, I believe that the regulators are only supposed to let current run in one direction. I could not get a short or OL reading on my ohm meter when testing the yellow and red wires which makes me think the regulator is bad and allowing current to flow backwards to the stator and causing the stator to heat up. Thus the tan goo.

Does this sound like I should change the voltage regulators. They are $125 a pop and I have two of them so dont want to change unless really need to.

Thanks for your help!:cheers:
 
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I am using them now and have been for the last year or so. I also know a guy that rebuilds a lot of V6 mercs that puts them on every motor that leaves his shop as cheap insurance. No issues either of us have had. You'll get as much warranty out of them as you will out of any electrical part.
 
OK, So I ordered the new regulators and should have them here on Monday. Will install them and retest and see how it goes.

Has anyone heard that using a maintenance free battery is not recommended on an outboard because of the way it charges?
 
I think that only applies to non regulated systems. Ive been using maintenance free batteries forever.
 
I was noticing that the regulators that I ordered have an additional Black wire. I assume that that is a ground wire. Should it just be grounded to one of the mounting screws for the regulators?
 
I put on the new regulators yesterday after checking the ohm readings on the regulators and the new ones did pass the ohms test like my old ones wouldn't.
I then started up the motor on the hose and noticed that when I turned on the key it cranked, fired and quit very quickly. All in 1 to 2 seconds. So I tried to start it again and it did the same thing. So I had forgotten to prime the bulb and I pumped it up hard. Tried it again and same thing. Forth time it fired up and stayed running.
I am concerned about the starter now, it never has acted this way before the new regulators. Could this mess up my starter?

I shut it down and retested the regulators and the stator with ohm meter. The reading all came out good.
Should I be worried? Has anyone heard of this before??

Thanks again!!!!
 
Regulators have zero to do with the starter other than they charge the battery and the battery powers the starter. Your batter voltage may be low is all.
 
So I lake tested the boat last weekend. I did notice that the tach will now jump up and down at high speeds about a 1000 rpm. I assume that this is due to the new regulators. I hooked the tach to the other regulator to see if it is going to do the same thing. It seems to be stable at the low rpms. I dont know what is causing this?
 
So the boat isnt surging at the high speeds, just the tach is jumping up and down between 4 and 5 thousand. Will changing the yellow wires around make a difference or using the other regulator make a difference?
 
On my end My battery is not charging and I keep blowing rectifiers, so I just checked the stator. The manual says to check for resistance between the two pairs of yellow wires, and that's within tolerances. The next test has you check the individual yellow wires to ground and they should be open, wheras I have one pair of yellow wires shorting to ground. Could this be the reason my rectifiers don't last?

Also, to change the stator the manual has you removing the flywheel with a puller. Is a special puller required? Or would it normally come off without too much effort?

Thanks!
Phil
 
The correct puller makes the job a snap. Tapping on the flywheel with a hammer or some such tool will make you say bad words when you knock the flywheel magnets loose by engaging in such behavior. I believe the part number for the puller is #91-849154T 1.
 
Figure out what part numbers you need and price on iboats. My local Mercury dealer is such an asshole I only go to him if I have no other choice. Prices have been pretty competitive on iboats and I've even had good luck on Amazon.
 
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