Big Block Power

[mkhammer]

You Guys that plan on re powering you boat this winter and are looking for some serious power check out these short block engine kits. They can be drop shipped to your door. Its always a concern If you order a custom engine if it was machined to you spec. These engine kits let you take it to the machinist of you choice. 540 c.i. 565 c.i. or 598 c.i. Dart Big M block, all forged rotating assembly, Scat 4340 crank, Scat 4340 H-beam Rods, and SRP forged Pistons, you get Rings, Cam,main and rod bearings and brass freeze plug set.

You can see it at:http://www.mkhammer.com/store/home.php?cat=2904

Any Questions let me know


MKHammer

 

[Jetmate]

Prices seem very reasonable. Kinda makes me wish I was in the market for a motor.

 

[yellowfiero88]

As sweet as that would be in the enchanter, I would have to cut into the back seat to fit a BBC. Then I know the alpha would be a time bomb, I will already be pushing it with the SBC stroker!

 

[Jetmate]

As sweet as that would be in the enchanter, I would have to cut into the back seat to fit a BBC. Then I know the alpha would be a time bomb, I will already be pushing it with the SBC stroker!

Yea, a stroker sounds good. Make a good winter project. Maybe MK can cut you a deal!!

 

[yellowfiero88]

I am going to look you up MK. I am coming back out to lake havasu maybe this febuary. I bought my dually there a few months ago, flew out and drove home. I am coming back out to visit with friends and I am looking for a boat rental. Maybe you can guide me in the right direction.

 

[mkhammer]

Hey that would be great we boat all year round here. It still gets cold from now to about the end of March. But we have alot of balmy days. My shop is in CA.

This is a marine 383 stroker kit
Rotating assembly:
1-Scat 9000 series cast steel 3.750 stroke crankshaft ,knife edge, lightened holes and rod throws.
1-set of 8- 4340 I beam 6.000 connecting rods.
1 set of 8- hypereutectic pistons 4.040 bore .010 over dish or flat top (must specify head cc to obtain correct compression)
1-set Piston ring set low tension.
1- Milling oil pump
1-set Cam bearings
1-set Rod bearings
1-set Main bearings
1 set brass freeze plugs
1-Felpro Marine complete gasket set.
Total price for rotating assembly $1,317.30


Cam Kit: roller hydraulic
1- Camshaft 112 lobe center 272/320 intake, 280/320 Exhaust @cam 480 lift @valve
Base circle grind 1.070 to clear stroker crank.
1-set-hydraulic roller lifters retro or non retro.
1-set Viton valve stem seals
1-set Valve springs for roller hyd. cam
1-set retainers
1-set locks
1-timing set late step nose or pre vortec,chain and billet gears
1- assembly lube
Total for cam kit $750.00
Extreme duty aluminum roller rockers 1:6 Ratio $220.00
free shipping
You made need push rods one piece custom to be determined after assembly $140.00
With 215cc runner heads you could make 400 hp.
This is forum member discount prices.

MKHammer

 

[mikestrobe201]

HMMMMM....That puppy would be awesome in my Strobe 201....maybe I need another job to come up with some bucks.

 

[Old Navy]

Please post the brand name of the individual parts listed. I would not use hyperutectic pistions in a boat motor. Forged pistons only cost a little more, and will withstand abuse. Google hyperutectic piston and read about all the failures of the KB's. A lot of the failures can be blamed on the end user but these kits are designed to be finished by the end user so this info is pertinent.

 

[Mr. Buss]

Please post the brand name of the individual parts listed. I would not use hyperutectic pistions in a boat motor. Forged pistons only cost a little more, and will withstand abuse. Google hyperutectic piston and read about all the failures of the KB's.

x2..

is this a balanced kit???

internally, i hope..??

 

[Gimme Fuel]

x2..

is this a balanced kit???

internally, i hope..??

I see your gears are turning Buss A narly 383 in the Senator with a Bravo to back it up......that sounds like fun

 

[mkhammer]

Please post the brand name of the individual parts listed. I would not use hyperutectic pistons in a boat motor. Forged pistons only cost a little more, and will withstand abuse. Google hyperutectic piston and read about all the failures of the KB's. A lot of the failures can be blamed on the end user but these kits are designed to be finished by the end user so this info is pertinent.

I respect your feelings about the hypereutectic pistons,
I am offering Seal Power pistons, crank and rods are scat.
The combination I listed is a very good performance kit for the guy on a budget. I have not had one failure with this kit. I am not just selling parts this is a combination that has proven worthy in our shop. The hypereutectic piston does not expand as much as a forged and generates more heat. Most failures come from improper piston to wall and ring gap clearances. Lean engine will do them in and a host of other things that lead to any engine failure.
You can read about piston failures from Cast, hypereutectic and forged pistons,

You must know that mercruiser's L series engines have cast pistons, Iron cranks and turn 4800 to 5000 rpm for years on end with proper maintenance.
This kit is a step beyond that and for a recreational boater that wants some snap this works well.

I can upgrade this kit:
Forged SRP piston for $100.00
4340 forged crank add $280.00
H-beam rods add $175.00

I have futher upgrades than this for racing applications.



MKHammer

 

[yellowfiero88]

Hey that would be great we boat all year round here. It still gets cold from now to about the end of March. But we have alot of balmy days. My shop is in CA.

This is a marine 383 stroker kit
Rotating assembly:
1-Scat 9000 series cast steel 3.750 stroke crankshaft ,knife edge, lightened holes and rod throws.
1-set of 8- 4340 I beam 6.000 connecting rods.
1 set of 8- hypereutectic pistons 4.040 bore .010 over dish or flat top (must specify head cc to obtain correct compression)
1-set Piston ring set low tension.
1- Milling oil pump
1-set Cam bearings
1-set Rod bearings
1-set Main bearings
1 set brass freeze plugs
1-Felpro Marine complete gasket set.
Total price for rotating assembly $1,317.30


Cam Kit: roller hydraulic
1- Camshaft 112 lobe center 272/320 intake, 280/320 Exhaust @cam 480 lift @valve
Base circle grind 1.070 to clear stroker crank.
1-set-hydraulic roller lifters retro or non retro.
1-set Viton valve stem seals
1-set Valve springs for roller hyd. cam
1-set retainers
1-set locks
1-timing set late step nose or pre vortec,chain and billet gears
1- assembly lube
Total for cam kit $750.00
Extreme duty aluminum roller rockers 1:6 Ratio $220.00
free shipping
You made need push rods one piece custom to be determined after assembly $140.00
With 215cc runner heads you could make 400 hp.
This is forum member discount prices.

MKHammer

I got everything except for the rods, pistons, and heads. I am going with 210cc runners and a 64cc chamber aluminum head. Pistons will be forged. I dont know about the rods yet. I am using the 86 block with the 1 piece rear main. Eagle cast steel crank. Aluminum 1.6 rollers. Comp extreme marine cam and lifters.

Looks like you got some real good prices. When I get ready for the rest of the parts, I will see what you can do for me.

 

[mkhammer]

x2..

is this a balanced kit???

internally, i hope..??

Buss that is a good question,

This kit with the 6.000 Rod is internally balanced for a 2-piece rear main seal. your 350 flywheel and balancer will work.
The kits comes balanced within 3 grms,
I never take a pre balanced assemblies for granted and it should be fine tuned by your machinist.

For the later 1 piece rear main seal is a different kit and is neutral balance front and external balance rear.

The kit I have listed for a 2- piece rear main seal with a 5.700 rod is externally balanced and would not make sense to buy if you have internally balanced 350 balancer and flywheel.
you would have to go to a forged assembly with this rod length.


MKHammer

 

[mkhammer]

I got everything except for the rods, pistons, and heads. I am going with 210cc runners and a 64cc chamber aluminum head. Pistons will be forged. I dont know about the rods yet. I am using the 86 block with the 1 piece rear main. Eagle cast steel crank. Aluminum 1.6 rollers. Comp extreme marine cam and lifters.

Looks like you got some real good prices. When I get ready for the rest of the parts, I will see what you can do for me.

Depending on the part # number of your crank which is probally 10352375057E you will need a 5.700 rod or longer.
As far as heads go I have alot of options.

I Have this kit for $1,350.00 you get all this

•1 pr C1982363ST pbm Aluminum Cylinder Heads 198 cc runners
•3000 Hydraulic Valve Springs
•501S Stamped Steel Retainers
•205 11/32 Locks
•2659 I.D. Type Spring Cups
•5301132 Single Viton Seals
•601 Guideplate 5/16 flat
•5180 3/8 Rocker Studs
•2106 2.020 +100 Intake Valves
•2004 1.600 +100 Exhaust Valves
•5009 Head Bolt Kit
•92600 Full Gasket Set
•11205 Intake Gaskets
•PBM742C Logo Chrome Valve Covers
•PPR52026 Crosswind Int Manifold
•ARP134-2001 Intake Manifold Bolt Kit
•700 Timing Set
•007-3 Cam Lock Kit
•817 Set of Lifters
•E110032 Performance Camshaft
•1602-8 7.900” 5/16 +.100 Pushrods
•100-16 3/8” 1.5:1 Aluminum Rocker Arms

 

[mkhammer]

Depending on the part # number of your crank which is probally 10352375057E you will need a 5.700 rod or longer.
As far as heads go I have alot of options.

I Have this kit for $1,350.00 you get all this

•1 pr C1982363ST pbm Aluminum Cylinder Heads 198 cc runners
•3000 Hydraulic Valve Springs
•501S Stamped Steel Retainers
•205 11/32 Locks
•2659 I.D. Type Spring Cups
•5301132 Single Viton Seals
•601 Guideplate 5/16 flat
•5180 3/8 Rocker Studs
•2106 2.020 +100 Intake Valves
•2004 1.600 +100 Exhaust Valves
•5009 Head Bolt Kit
•92600 Full Gasket Set
•11205 Intake Gaskets
•PBM742C Logo Chrome Valve Covers
•PPR52026 Crosswind Int Manifold
•ARP134-2001 Intake Manifold Bolt Kit
•700 Timing Set
•007-3 Cam Lock Kit
•817 Set of Lifters
•E110032 Performance Camshaft
•1602-8 7.900” 5/16 +.100 Pushrods
•100-16 3/8” 1.5:1 Aluminum Rocker Arms

I can take out what ever is not need in this kit and it will lower the price, The heads are PBM branded.

 

[wca_tim]

My personal experience with the current 383 would say definately go with first set of components... add the "upgrade': the 4340 crank, the Hbeam rods and for 64 cc heads ca. -16cc dished forged pistons (SRP makes a nice set). engine builder I used also recommended 200 cc cast heads, or brodix aluminum. I went cast 200 cc runner and then had porting work done (brackish, open cooling).

Have everything blueprinted and balanced meticulously, add good performance exhaust, a baffled high volume pan, fairly large oil cooler (standard volume pump) and run it flat our for as long as you like if your machinist works his magic with care....

You won't be sorry...

 

[mkhammer]

You are right that is a great combination at 10:1 compression. That is one of the combos I sell .I give dish recommendation after I know which head is being used and desired compression ratio. The dish works good it gives a more combustion for a very efficient burn.

The lesser of the 383 kits I sell with the cast steel crank 4340 I beam rods and Hypereutectic pistons is a good kit. Mercury uses hypereutectic pistons in the 357 & 383 mag. The kit I sell is comparable. With the right cam this kit makes a awesome 350 HP @ 5000 rpm and will work with a Alpha drive.

The forged kit is the best all around. It is good for 6000 rpm wide open running with a bravo drive.
With the Aluminum heads and the right cam it cam make 425+ hp. Its comparable with the Iron head 400 hp scorpion.
You can run the this kit with an Alpha but I don't recommend it. The Alpha won't last long.

People will always put big power in front of under rated drives some last longer than others.


MKHammer

 

[mkhammer]

You are right that is a great combination at 10:1 compression. That is one of the combos I sell .I give dish recommendation after I know which head is being used and desired compression ratio. The dish works good it gives a more combustion for a very efficient burn.

The lesser of the 383 kits I sell with the cast steel crank 4340 I beam rods and Hypereutectic pistons is a good kit. Mercury uses hypereutectic pistons in the 357 & 383 mag. The kit I sell is comparable. With the right cam this kit makes a awesome 350 HP @ 5000 rpm and will work with a Alpha drive.

The forged kit is the best all around. It is good for 6000 rpm wide open running with a bravo drive.
With the Aluminum heads and the right cam it cam make 425+ hp. Its comparable with the Iron head 400 hp scorpion.
You can run the this kit with an Alpha but I don't recommend it. The Alpha won't last long.

People will always put big power in front of under rated drives some last longer than others.


MKHammer

I'm sorry I left a word out, the dish piston gives a more hemispherical combustion for a more efficient burn.
If anyone would like personalized forum member pricing for any components PM me.


MK

 

[wca_tim]

What do you think about switching to 72 cc heads and adding a procharger (or perhaps whipple) to that combo? I'm thinking I want more, and although I can make some progress with more head porting, maybe better heads, more cam, etc... we're talking incremental gains even with big dollar parts and probably at an additional cost in manners unless I go with a whole new build with more cubes...

I'm running an alpha drive (alpha ss right now) on this boat, but have a sense that I get away with it because it's so light and I intentionally went with a single plane intake to soften the low rpm torque to go easier on it out of the hole. although.... I did sort of throw an upper drive shaft one day ... and burnt the merc high perf lube black and the gears blue in one upper ... Probably just time to get a different boat here soon.

 

[mkhammer]

What do you think about switching to 72 cc heads and adding a procharger (or perhaps whipple) to that combo? I'm thinking I want more, and although I can make some progress with more head porting, maybe better heads, more cam, etc... we're talking incremental gains even with big dollar parts and probably at an additional cost in manners unless I go with a whole new build with more cubes...

I'm running an alpha drive (alpha ss right now) on this boat, but have a sense that I get away with it because it's so light and I intentionally went with a single plane intake to soften the low rpm torque to go easier on it out of the hole. although.... I did sort of throw an upper drive shaft one day ... and burnt the merc high perf lube black and the gears blue in one upper ... Probably just time to get a different boat here soon.

Wow a short shaft alpha not many of those around,
Head work and bigger cam would mean Higher RPM to utilize the upgrade. If you engine is fairly fresh you could use what you have for a pro charger upgrade.

You would be at about 9.2:1 with 72cc heads. With a Whipple you would have to get your compression down to about 8 to 8.5:1 or run low boost for it to live. Screw drive and roots style blowers make big torque down low with any kind of boost to them. You need to design your engine from the start to run one if you want to use all the potential of your blower.
True with a pro charger setup too but....

With a pro charger you can run a more aggressive CP ratio and get away with 9.2:1 cr. with a M1 7 psi kit. Pro chargers have a much cooler boost charge and they build boost with RPM. Aluminum heads help greatly .The cam selection is important. A grind on a 112 lobe center for the SB with high lift and not so aggressive duration would work best, ( a high lift torque profile). Ignition is important too with a pro charger you can run some curve and not much advance all in by 2400 rpm @ 24deg. the above setup lock it out and not exceed 28 deg. pro chargers are easier on drives because they build boost with RPM. Still would do a Alpha in. Synthetic gear lube helps a lot with frequent changes. with 500+ hp a bravo upgrade would be good. Since a SB doesn't have the torque a BB has you could probally make a standard bravo 1 last a long time.

MKHammer