Trophy Plus 26 on Pulsare 2100/225Xri

[Mark]

Solid mounts can definitely help reduce chine walk in certain stuations, but not all. You can actually see the motor leg snaking back and forth if you hang your head over the transom (don't try this while driving LOL). But the easiest way to get rid of chine walk is to sell your overrated Tempest prop to someone else and get a 4 blade. Though they have great lift and top speed they are ill handling beasts that are only good for going straight on a calm day.

 

[JUPITER PULSARE]

The Trophy Plus 26 was the best prop for my boat so far. 2 adults, full tank of gas, cooler, etc and 73+ miles an hour!!!! I think I could've have gone faster had I not been fighting all the boat wakes on a sunday afternoon!! There was some chinewalk in the upper 60's and then the prop just kicked into overdrive and the boat leveled out an flew!!!!! I was so busy enjoying the rush that I never even looked at the tach to see what I was spinning...to busy staring at the GPS!

I think I'm going to take out all my gear, bow cusions, anchor, etc. and try running some top end numbers with just myself and a half tank of gas...maybe I can get to 75mph...with a bone stock motor!!!

 

[Mark]

GIDDY UP!

 

[JUPITER PULSARE]

GIDDY UP!

Yee Haw!! It was nice to finally get to drive my boat with the throttle to the glass without fighting the prop and worrying bout getting wet!!! The bow just hung out there stable as a rock and the boat was making time!!!

 

[Craig]

Trophy and Tempest props

Without looking back to see what my actual numbers were on my last Pulsare.....I think I was getting around 88 with a 28 Trophy and 90+ with a 29 Tempest....GPS. Both were stock out of the box from merc. The set-up was a 300XS, 14.5" set back, TM case.

The Trophy, though slower, was for sure the best handling, best feeling prop on the Pulares I've had. The hole shot was unbeatable, very responsive thru the midrange, and cornered excellent. The Tempest ran well, too, but not as good overall.

Re: Steering - needs to be tight...if you have hydraulic, purge it over and over again when installing.....up to 10 times more than the manual indicates. You should be able to get zero play or close to it.

Re: solid mounts - The merc racing motors even the consumer versions (ex: promax, XS) have solid mounts. When I look back to when I drove my Starflights with the older Black Max motors and XRI's there was a big differrence, so my personal observation would be that solid mounts help alot. I don't think that rubber mounts are a main cause of chine walk, but do contribute to it. Solid mounts make it much easier to control for sure.

Re: setback - I really haven't seen this to help much with chine walk issues....but it defintely improves top speed....If your main objective is to go faster, go with as much setback as you can. If your a skiier/wakeboarder, stay with a normal amount.

All "vees" will chine walk at high speeds...just can't stay put with all that boat out of the water, it wants to fall side to side, just a matter of gravity. Good steering and solid mounts will help, alot, but will never eliminate it all together, you have to do that yourself by balancing it as you drive.

The Pulsare hull really won't chine walk much at all (a little, but nothing major) until you get it moving up around 80. I know some of you guys know this, others have not had a chance to get that speed. Where it gets real tricky is the 90 mark....you have very little boat in the water....I've had the bow come up where it alomst felt vertical, on flat water, by getting stupid with the trim button. If your not ready to ease it back, it can flip.

Lot of fun. Go with tight steering & solid mounts, be safe.

-Craig

 

[HobieHernandez]

Nice Numbers,,JUPITER PULSARE

Back to the Great Debate on motor mounts,solid or rubber?
So far my boat don't go fast enough to chine walk,,64 is my all time best..
My concern is with the solid mounts,,what is absorbing all the shock??the transom??Bay gets rough out here sometimes,and I like to fly my Checkmate,airborn when ever I can,I am thinking for me I am better of with rubber,or am I wrong...
Let the battle Begin again,,LOL

 

[JUPITER PULSARE]

Nice Numbers,,JUPITER PULSARE

Back to the Great Debate on motor mounts,solid or rubber?
So far my boat don't go fast enough to chine walk,,64 is my all time best..
My concern is with the solid mounts,,what is absorbing all the shock??the transom??Bay gets rough out here sometimes,and I like to fly my Checkmate,airborn when ever I can,I am thinking for me I am better of with rubber,or am I wrong...
Let the battle Begin again,,LOL

Hey Hobie, the rubber mounts are designed to isolate vibration from the motor to the hull. The rubber mounts will not effect anything from wave jumping. The debate lies in the "facts" that the motor loads and unloads while under high rpm thereby allowing the motor to move side to side (with the rubber mounts) which in turn can create (or add to) chine walk.....

 

[HobieHernandez]

I have to go buy the book on my engine,,My friend told me it was time to change them..I got to much play he says,,I don't even know what they look like yet..but I will soon..I guess i will go with rubber,I have one crack in my transom,thought it was my doing,,boat is 91,did not have one crack till i got it,,I thought i was to rough,,but I noticed last week ,the prior owner mount the jack plate on top of the molding..he caught the molding tip buy a hair.I can see the plate is not perfectly flush to boat and that is where the crack starts at the tip of the molding..sux,i wish i caught it sooner..

 

[JUPITER PULSARE]

I have to go buy the book on my engine,,My friend told me it was time to change them..I got to much play he says,,I don't even know what they look like yet..but I will soon..I guess i will go with rubber,I have one crack in my transom,thought it was my doing,,boat is 91,did not have one crack till i got it,,I thought i was to rough,,but I noticed last week ,the prior owner mount the jack plate on top of the molding..he caught the molding tip buy a hair.I can see the plate is not perfectly flush to boat and that is where the crack starts at the tip of the molding..sux,i wish i caught it sooner..

It's most likey a stress crack in the gel coat. You may want to re-mount your jack plate so it does not create any more damage. If the plate isn't sitting flush and there's movement you will ream out the mounting holes and take on water. You could also add aluminum plates on the inside of the transom to distribute the stress across a broader area.

 

[claupie]

Without looking back to see what my actual numbers were on my last Pulsare.....I think I was getting around 88 with a 28 Trophy and 90+ with a 29 Tempest....GPS. Both were stock out of the box from merc. The set-up was a 300XS, 14.5" set back, TM case.

The Trophy, though slower, was for sure the best handling, best feeling prop on the Pulares I've had. The hole shot was unbeatable, very responsive thru the midrange, and cornered excellent. The Tempest ran well, too, but not as good overall.

Re: Steering - needs to be tight...if you have hydraulic, purge it over and over again when installing.....up to 10 times more than the manual indicates. You should be able to get zero play or close to it.

Re: solid mounts - The merc racing motors even the consumer versions (ex: promax, XS) have solid mounts. When I look back to when I drove my Starflights with the older Black Max motors and XRI's there was a big differrence, so my personal observation would be that solid mounts help alot. I don't think that rubber mounts are a main cause of chine walk, but do contribute to it. Solid mounts make it much easier to control for sure.

Re: setback - I really haven't seen this to help much with chine walk issues....but it defintely improves top speed....If your main objective is to go faster, go with as much setback as you can. If your a skiier/wakeboarder, stay with a normal amount.

All "vees" will chine walk at high speeds...just can't stay put with all that boat out of the water, it wants to fall side to side, just a matter of gravity. Good steering and solid mounts will help, alot, but will never eliminate it all together, you have to do that yourself by balancing it as you drive.

The Pulsare hull really won't chine walk much at all (a little, but nothing major) until you get it moving up around 80. I know some of you guys know this, others have not had a chance to get that speed. Where it gets real tricky is the 90 mark....you have very little boat in the water....I've had the bow come up where it alomst felt vertical, on flat water, by getting stupid with the trim button. If your not ready to ease it back, it can flip.

Lot of fun. Go with tight steering & solid mounts, be safe.

-Craig

Has anyone here have ever flipped a pulsare ??? i never heard of it ..

 

[Craig]

You're g&d d*mn right one can flip if you’re not careful….Too much trim at 90 and you WILL come out of the water. Done it in a Pulsare w/ 300Promax a about 4 years ago, did not totally flip but came out of the water, nose pointing straight in the air, and came back down hard on the port side, and then the boat grabbed hard and all said and done the bow was pointing back the way I came from!!!!! Just had tiller arm damage….The last Pulsare I had with the 300XS was faster yet, and with the 14.5” setback, if you weren’t careful with trim it was even more flighty. Seen a 21’ Bullet (1100lbs) not much lighter than a Pulsare come all the way out in the same way at the end of this summer.

-Craig

 

[Craig]

You're g&d d*mn right one can flip if you’re not careful….Too much trim at 90 and you WILL come out of the water. Done it in a Pulsare w/ 300Promax a about 4 years ago, did not totally flip but came out of the water, nose pointing straight in the air, and came back down hard on the port side, and then the boat grabbed hard and all said and done the bow was pointing back the way I came from!!!!! Just had tiller arm damage….The last Pulsare I had with the 300XS was faster yet, and with the 14.5” setback, if you weren’t careful with trim it was even more flighty. Seen a 21’ Bullet (1100lbs) not much lighter than a Pulsare come all the way out in the same way at the end of this summer.

-Craig

 

[JUPITER PULSARE]

I've not heard of any Pulsares blowing over....but I imagine if you get enough air under any boat it will kite.

 

[Craig]

I've not heard of any Pulsares blowing over....but I imagine if you get enough air under any boat it will kite.

You don’t even need much as far as unexpected conditions for it to happen. That time in my Pulsare I was in pretty flat water, maybe 6” chop…getting aired out, working the trim, and there was maybe just a slight stretch were it must have went to like 12” chop, didn’t feel like much. That’s all it takes. People watching said the boat got high enough that the prop was just out of the water, nose straight up….I could feel the boat catch wind and turn while I was in the air.

My last Pulsare with the 300XS and big set-back was even more responsive to trim. It felt like you could lever it right over backwards. I didn’t have it long, and I babied it when I had it, so I never pushed it hard, but it was a lot more flighty than my other one. It rode on a very small portion of the pad when aired out.

-Craig

 

[JW]

Hey Craig, where are all these hot Pulsare's going when you sell them??

 

[Craig]

JW,

I had a Puslare from 2000 to end of 2004, that I bought new....that boat was hit by a car and totaled. It had a 300 Promax and I sold that via S&F to a guy in California.

The last one was a 2008 that I ordered in March and traded back to Roberts Marine in Septemeber for a ZT230. Very nice set-up, but my wife finally decide she'd rather have something with a little more freeboard.

I think Bob still has that boat, and is offering a hell of a deal on it.

-Craig

 

[SCT]

Craig- when are you going to post some pixs of your new 230???

I've never flipped a Pulsare but my 2100/ 225EFI did a complate 360 when I lost the l/u one day......scared the crap out of me. Luckily it stayed upright.

 

[JUPITER PULSARE]

Craig- when are you going to post some pixs of your new 230???

I've never flipped a Pulsare but my 2100/ 225EFI did a complate 360 when I lost the l/u one day......scared the crap out of me. Luckily it stayed upright.

I spun a complete 180 just a few weeks ago back in the river. Got a little overzealous on the throttle while showing off. Some of the Jupiter Hot Boat boys were sitting at idle when I came around a corner...tucked the drive in while slowing down..spun the wheel to the left...and nailed the throttle. My Pulsare spun like a giant jet ski and threw a huge roost. The only bad thing was that it felt for an instant like it was going to tip over as it came to a rest!!! I'm sure glad she settled down in the water..I wasn't prepared to get wet!

 

[Craig]

I sent pics of my 230 to Kip, and they are on the website/catalog.....White with blue, black and yellow....Will try to post here soon.

-Craig

 

[hotdaddy27]

Originally Posted by Craig
Without looking back to see what my actual numbers were on my last Pulsare.....I think I was getting around 88 with a 28 Trophy and 90+ with a 29 Tempest....GPS. Both were stock out of the box from merc. The set-up was a 300XS, 14.5" set back, TM case.

The Trophy, though slower, was for sure the best handling, best feeling prop on the Pulares I've had. The hole shot was unbeatable, very responsive thru the midrange, and cornered excellent. The Tempest ran well, too, but not as good overall.

Craig-

Just curious as to what you were running for R's with those props.

I don't know that the smaller displacement engine I have (2.5L 280) will run well with that large of a prop.

I will most likely purchase a trophy because I do a ton of water skiing.

What do you think?