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core..

Hey guy or guys , not to be rude , but ....................injecting resin (Epoxy) is a common method for doing small areas of repair but not nearly as effective as replacing the damaged area with new wood and to tell you the truth i often see a breakdown in the glue seperating the ply (wood) causing delamination because the Ply as been wet for such a long period of time so with that in mind . .............. Without removing the skin , and drilling holes in the damaged area it actually will be very hard to determine the extent of the rot and how wet the core actually is and if you start injecting resin with Epoxy into the areas of concern...............please remember that epoxy will adhere to Poly or Vinyl ..... which means ...Poly or Vinyl will not adhere to Epoxy, and if by chance you decide to inject the area of concern i would consider using Epoxy liked mentioned earlier , and once again... if you decide.................. to take out the rotted wood and replace with new ............try to use a scarf joint when doing this repair .
 
Hey guy or guys , not to be rude , but ....................injecting resin (Epoxy) is a common method for doing small areas of repair but not nearly as effective as replacing the damaged area with new wood and to tell you the truth i often see a breakdown in the glue seperating the ply (wood) causing delamination because the Ply as been wet for such a long period of time so with that in mind . .............. Without removing the skin , and drilling holes in the damaged area it actually will be very hard to determine the extent of the rot and how wet the core actually is and if you start injecting resin with Epoxy into the areas of concern...............please remember that epoxy will adhere to Poly or Vinyl ..... which means ...Poly or Vinyl will not adhere to Epoxy, and if by chance you decide to inject the area of concern i would consider using Epoxy liked mentioned earlier , and once again... if you decide.................. to take out the rotted wood and replace with new ............try to use a scarf joint when doing this repair .

I will take Robbie's advise and drill a hole and see how wet it is...if it questionable i will replace it rather than repair...how hard is to to remove this plywood pad? ...oh and all the wet or rotted core has been removed...didnt make sense to try and inject that....and im a carpenter, never heard of scarf joint?? explain please!!!
 
I will take Robbie's advise and drill a hole and see how wet it is...if it questionable i will replace it rather than repair...how hard is to to remove this plywood pad? ...oh and all the wet or rotted core has been removed...didnt make sense to try and inject that....and im a carpenter, never heard of scarf joint?? explain please!!!
Wow ............... i can only guess and wonder what to say but ....................................are you toying with my brain .......please .
 
Wow ............... i do not know what to say , and are you toying with my brain ...............?

nope...and since i grew up in upstate NY, you would think i would know a "scarf" joint....lol :shakehead:

Im assuming its a type of locking joint...like i could get with a router bit...or just use a plate joiner...
 
LOL!!! Take it easy on OFFSHORE GINGER, he has worked for different boat building companies in the past. I think he owns a boat repair company. OFFSHORE GINGER correct me if I'm wrong...:D
 
LOL!!! Take it easy on OFFSHORE GINGER, he has worked for different boat building companies in the past. I think he owns a boat repair company. OFFSHORE GINGER correct me if I'm wrong...:D
yup , yup , and yup, lol , as a matter of fact i have worked at four different Boat Co's over the last 40 plus years doing fiberglass repair , and now that i am approaching 60 i have a tendency to pick and choose (work) on what i really want to do at this time in my life , and if you like ....i have a thread titled the Ole Don Q Rum / Skater on endless boating .com which actually show's what type's of repair i have been doing lately but ........................non the less this is not a plug , just trying to give good advice to those who want it . :eyecrazy:
 
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To answer your question in post #9 #1708 is 17 Oz Biaxial 45 /45 + stitched into the fabric (sewn)3/4 Ounce strand mat which is a high strength fabric offering fast wet out when using Poly or Vinyl .


Offshore, first thanks for all your help...priceless...

second, just want to be sure im getting the right stuff..trying to buy all the materials together from Noahs Marine...not seeing the 17oz. as you described...its probably there but described different....is this the stuff:


"12 and 17 OUNCE DOUBLE BIAS CLOTH
(Style DB 120) - Knytex

Same style as Double Bias Stitchmat, without the mat. Better for use with epoxy resin."
 
yup , yup , and yup, lol , as a matter of fact i have worked at four different Boat Co's over the last 40 plus years doing fiberglass repair , and now that i am approaching 60 i have a tendency to pick and choose (work) on what i really want to do at this time in my life , and if you like ....i have a thread titled the Ole Don Q Rum / Skater on endless boating .com which actually show's what type's of repair i have been doing lately but ........................non the less this is not a plug , just trying to give good advice to those who want it . :eyecrazy:


Here's OG's thread good read: http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?60195-32-skater&highlight
 
Nice work OG!!!!:bigthumb:
first off thank you guys , and Cmpulse 170 , i am surprised that you dug that thread up seeing my p.c. took a puke this weekend , and my recovery program some how ........did not gather up any of my photos.... considering i was getting ready to start a new thread on another boat that is in the making but ....................non the less ballardnboyz . if you are going to use Epoxy i would recomend using 17 oz with a no mat or chop back instead of 1708 even though these matts have a binder designed for polyester resins and sometimes used with satisfactory results , the binder (matt / chop back) may cause clouding and prevent through wet out of the fabric which is not recommended to be used with epoxy resins .
 
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good advice going here, I stay away from gitrot on anything stuctural, but works great for everything else.

Ballard, Pulling the plywood from the pad isnt really too hard, but take your time. If its anything like mine, you will find that the bond between the bottom of the plywood and the hull underneath isnt uniform. I went real slow, found the softest looking area, then set my circular saw to a pretty small depth, maybe 1/4 inch, cut a small square and then chiseled it out to the fiberglass to figure out the right depth, then cut with the circular saw a little less than that depth the whole length about 3/4 of an inch from either side, and some cross cuts along the way, then pried/chiseled the whole thing out, took maybe an hour or two.
 
good advice going here, I stay away from gitrot on anything stuctural, but works great for everything else.

Ballard, Pulling the plywood from the pad isnt really too hard, but take your time. If its anything like mine, you will find that the bond between the bottom of the plywood and the hull underneath isnt uniform. I went real slow, found the softest looking area, then set my circular saw to a pretty small depth, maybe 1/4 inch, cut a small square and then chiseled it out to the fiberglass to figure out the right depth, then cut with the circular saw a little less than that depth the whole length about 3/4 of an inch from either side, and some cross cuts along the way, then pried/chiseled the whole thing out, took maybe an hour or two.

ok...my isuue is close to the transom though, does the pad go under that? and if it does what would i do there?? I had this area drying with some heat all night and there doesnt appear to be any rot or be "loose", should i keep drying, or just remove this pad????:brickwall: I hate to get into a total rebuild....
 
to be honest, I cant remember if the pad plywood extends under the transom or not (think I had my transom out before I pulled the pad, I know for sure that my replacement plywood runs under my new transom. Looked through my old pics and couldnt really tell. if you wanted you could probably pull everything right up to the transom and then seal that last little bit off and leave it, or try to dig it out from under the transom and fill that little gap with some putty. If the wood was wet enough to be noticeable, Id have a hard time leaving it in there/believing it will fully dry out before you reseal it. FUNSTUFF :banana:
 
ok...guess i need to start a enchanter resto thread...found a little more wet balsa toady..not alot but enough to make me remove my 3 year old floor...funny not really rotted, just wet and loose. I will have to say, glass half full attitude, i caught this as is just happened...

Can someone please tell me what the heck my transom is made of. In the balsa romoval i thought i should get a good look at the transom, so started removeing some glass, as you can see from the pictures. In removing loose glass, found some wet rotten wood....chipped at it and a layer of 1/4 plywood came off the complete face leaving some kind of core material. It is in great shape, solid, but have no clue what it is and what i should do about it...
 

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Im thinking under the transom where I cant get a good seal on the balsa, instead i should use marine epoxy?
 

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Ballardnboyz , i know this type of work can sometimes be overwhelming but just remember it is just a dumb piece of fiberglass , and you are smarter then it . Hey guy i am glad to see that you are moving foward with this project because it needs to be done along with the pad or the area of concern where it is black because that is not a good sign at all ,and to tell you the truth there is a lot of good knowledge on this forum which means we can talk you thru this whole project , and after all is said and done you most likely will be patting yourself on the back telling yourself that doing this repair was easier then you thought...... considering .............. it really is a walk in the park ...........just my 2 cents , and keep the pics comeing
 
Ballardnboyz , i know this type of work can sometimes be overwhelming but just remember it is just a dumb piece of fiberglass , and you are smarter then it . Hey guy i am glad to see that you are moving foward with this project because it needs to be done along with the pad or the area of concern where it is black because that is not a good sign at all ,and to tell you the truth there is a lot of good knowledge on this forum which means we can talk you thru this whole project , and after all is said and done you most likely will be patting yourself on the back telling yourself that doing this repair was easier then you thought...... considering .............. it really is a walk in the park ...........just my 2 cents , and keep the pics comeing

Thanks for your confidence, im a general contractor I build million dollar homes and have multimillion dollar commercial projects, so I will never surrender to a piece of wood or fiberglass!!!, That being said, Im glad Im a member, the info here is priceless, and I will do this right!!
 
Im thinking under the transom where I cant get a good seal on the balsa, instead i should use marine epoxy?
Hey guy when ever i do core i lay glass first along with skimming the underside of the core with a putty made with Resin and Cabosil making sure all voids are filled .............. along with removing all excess putty before doing my layup .
 
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