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1970 Checkmate MX-14

Today I pulled the gauges out. Is it normal that the bow light is hooked up to the panel lights for the gauges? Is that so when you turn the navigational lights on the panel lights turn on? Also, is the tachometer "stock"? It looks different from the others.

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If you look closely, you can see that the tachometer is missing that thin circular ring that the mounting bolts should go through. I think this is why it was a little loose.

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nathan said:
some put them in the dash on your boat you may think about putting were the hole is on the side unless you plan on repairing the hole. but the dash is the normal spot.
Click to expand...

I was thinking of putting it in the that big hole, but it may be weird having it right in front of the throttle.
 
back then it probably was connected like that to keep the amount of switches down. but I would put it on its own switch.
 
This weekend I am going to look at a 1968 Mercury 100 hp long shaft and a 1969 Mercury 100 hp long shaft. The guy is selling both for $1000. One runs fine and just has a small oil leak at one of the plugs in the lower unit. The other one he said ran fine 2 years ago, but some guy looking to buy it put it in gear when the engine wasn't running and got the clutch dog stuck in gear. He also has controls for one engine.

Do you guys have any suggestions on what to look at with these Mercs? I have some experience with smaller engines but never any this large. I know to check the compression and check the lower unit oil (The 35hp I bought had white oil, and I ended up having to replace the lower unit). He is going to start and run the one that is not stuck in gear.

Thanks again for all the advice and help. You guys are very knowledgeable! I figured many of you have bought these engines and know what to look for.
 
starviper10 said:
This weekend I am going to look at a 1968 Mercury 100 hp long shaft and a 1969 Mercury 100 hp long shaft. The guy is selling both for $1000. One runs fine and just has a small oil leak at one of the plugs in the lower unit. The other one he said ran fine 2 years ago, but some guy looking to buy it put it in gear when the engine wasn't running and got the clutch dog stuck in gear. He also has controls for one engine.

Do you guys have any suggestions on what to look at with these Mercs? I have some experience with smaller engines but never any this large. I know to check the compression and check the lower unit oil (The 35hp I bought had white oil, and I ended up having to replace the lower unit). He is going to start and run the one that is not stuck in gear.

Thanks again for all the advice and help. You guys are very knowledgeable! I figured many of you have bought these engines and know what to look for.
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Biggest thing is compression . If its low it isn't worth buying .
 
Is it fairly simple to swap power heads? I'm just wondering because if one of these has a good lower unit and a bad power head and the other is the opposite than that could be a solution. Also, any idea on the weight of these engines? I though I saw somewhere that a 115 hp is 250 pounds.
 
starviper10 said:
Is it fairly simple to swap power heads? I'm just wondering because if one of these has a good lower unit and a bad power head and the other is the opposite than that could be a solution. Also, any idea on the weight of these engines? I though I saw somewhere that a 115 hp is 250 pounds.
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The inlines weigh in at about 300 lbs . A power head swap is easy . I think in the 60's till about 73 they had a 10 bolt pattern . Than sometime in 73 changed it to a 8 bolt pattern and ran that till the end of the inlines in 88 .
 
personally i would think that swapping lower units would be easier if the lower unit is the issue piece and everything else is good. That way you also save the money of a base gasket and you will already have the lower off to put a water pump in it for safety! just my thoughts!
 
dream4ta said:
personally i would think that swapping lower units would be easier if the lower unit is the issue piece and everything else is good. That way you also save the money of a base gasket and you will already have the lower off to put a water pump in it for safety! just my thoughts!
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He did say that he has to rev up the engine a little to get water to come out, so it will need a new impeller anyway. One thing that concerns me is that the guy seems pretty knowledgeable and mechanical, but can't seem to find the source of a lower unit oil leak. At one point he said it was by a plug, and than he said by the propeller. Do you guys know of where oil leaks tend to be? I would want to replace all of the seals and gaskets while the lower unit is off. Is that a big job?

Thanks again for all the help! This is a pretty big purchase for me and I'd like it to go well.
 
The prop shaft seal is a weak spot on them due to movement and also it it was ussed around fishing i have seen many prop shaft seals taken out by fishing line getting wrapped around the shaft. If it is just a fill screw leaking make sure that it has not been crossthreaded into the housing as that will be a bit of an issue!
 
I made a tester for about 10 bucks. I bought a plastic bin at Wally World for 15. Drain it, screw the tester into the plug hole, put 10lbs of pressure in it, submerse it and look for bubbles. It should hold 10lb overnight if the seals are good.

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redstrat said:
I made a tester for about 10 bucks. I bought a plastic bin at Wally World for 15. Drain it, screw the tester into the plug hole, put 10lbs of pressure in it, submerse it and look for bubbles. It should hold 10lb overnight if the seals are good.

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Does it hurt to just put all new seals in it if you have to pull the lower unit off anyway? Are they expensive?
 

SO basically he has 1 100hp in working order and another parts motor. Whenever someone say it worked 2, 3 years ago but it’s doesn`t when you want to check it out raises big RED flag.
That is a famous line for crap motor.
A small oil leak at the fill or drain could be a bad o-ring that goes on just before the screw and if the threads are a bit bad you could just use sealer whenever you put it back in after a oil change.
So I think you’re just getting a motor with possibly some good parts. There must be some reason why he changed his motor at some point.
Good motor you Must check compression in front of you to see. 120-130psi minimum all cylinders.
I think in a year or 2 you will wish you would have got a motor with more hp. 100 is almost under bare minimium I would think for these boats.
So for a $1000 you are getting one old motor.
For that price I would want 130 to 140 psi, a check will tell.
I think over winter you could find more hp and a lot newer motor for $1000.
It’s a hard call, they are nice motors, I think he wants to much.
If it’s not running is a parts unknown motor.
So your buy ONE motor.
 
Mercmx15 said:

SO basically he has 1 100hp in working order and another parts motor. Whenever someone say it worked 2, 3 years ago but it’s doesn`t when you want to check it out raises big RED flag.
That is a famous line for crap motor.
A small oil leak at the fill or drain could be a bad o-ring that goes on just before the screw and if the threads are a bit bad you could just use sealer whenever you put it back in after a oil change.
So I think you’re just getting a motor with possibly some good parts. There must be some reason why he changed his motor at some point.
Good motor you Must check compression in front of you to see. 120-130psi minimum all cylinders.
I think in a year or 2 you will wish you would have got a motor with more hp. 100 is almost under bare minimium I would think for these boats.
So for a $1000 you are getting one old motor.
For that price I would want 130 to 140 psi, a check will tell.
I think over winter you could find more hp and a lot newer motor for $1000.
It’s a hard call, they are nice motors, I think he wants to much.
If it’s not running is a parts unknown motor.
So your buy ONE motor.
Click to expand...

Well he lives about 1.5-2.0 hours away up in Wisconsin and tomorrow he is driving here and has both engines on a mount on his trailer where he can back them in the water and run both engines, and even put them in gear and put them to half throttle. He has had one for like 10 years, and just got the other recently and has a lot of projects and needs some money.

The way I looked at it, if both have good compression and one of the lower units is fine, than its worth the $1000 for me to take them apart and swap parts if necessary. As nice as it would to have a nice newer engine, I'm not sure if I could work on them. I know that many people say to stay away from the oil injection.

What would you suggest for engine hp?
 
Hey if they both have good compression it may be the deal of a life time. Be nice if some other people spoke up.
I love these old motor, you just have to be careful.
I am rebuilding a 1972 MX-15 with 1978 115hp Merc.
I just check compression the other day and I scored 155psi
But the wire harness is bad, they all are, approx. $200 for harness.
But most of the other guys seem to be pushing 125 to 140 hp on these boats.
 
Mercmx15 said:
Hey if they both have good compression it may be the deal of a life time. Be nice if some other people spoke up.
I love these old motor, you just have to be careful.
I am rebuilding a 1972 MX-15 with 1978 115hp Merc.
I just check compression the other day and I scored 155psi
But the wire harness is bad, they all are, approx. $200 for harness.
But most of the other guys seem to be pushing 125 to 140 hp on these boats.
Click to expand...

140-145 psi is pretty normal on a new or rebuilt inline . If you have sprayed oil in the cylinders it will make your compression go up . Once you start it and burn that oil out it will come back down . I just picked up another inline six today myself . If he wants 1000.00 Make sure you do a compression check before you buy it . These things will start up and idle on the hose all day with a low cylinder but wont perform under a load ....
 
Mercmx15 said:
SO basically he has 1 100hp in working order and another parts motor. Whenever someone say it worked 2, 3 years ago but it’s doesn`t when you want to check it out raises big RED flag.
That is a famous line for crap motor.
A small oil leak at the fill or drain could be a bad o-ring that goes on just before the screw and if the threads are a bit bad you could just use sealer whenever you put it back in after a oil change.
So I think you’re just getting a motor with possibly some good parts. There must be some reason why he changed his motor at some point.
Good motor you Must check compression in front of you to see. 120-130psi minimum all cylinders.
I think in a year or 2 you will wish you would have got a motor with more hp. 100 is almost under bare minimium I would think for these boats.
So for a $1000 you are getting one old motor.
For that price I would want 130 to 140 psi, a check will tell.
I think over winter you could find more hp and a lot newer motor for $1000.
It’s a hard call, they are nice motors, I think he wants to much.
If it’s not running is a parts unknown motor.
So your buy ONE motor.
Click to expand...
:offtopic: I'm gonna need glasses soon reading your replys. Leave the font at atleast 10. Bigger is better:)
 
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