• Welcome to the Checkmate Community Forums forums.

    You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions, articles and access to our other FREE features.
    By joining our free community you will be able to:

    » Interact with over 10,000 Checkmate Fanatics from around the world!
    » Post topics and messages
    » Post and view photos
    » Communicate privately with other members
    » Access our extensive gallery of old Checkmate brochures located in our Media Gallery
    » Browse the various pictures in our Checkmate photo gallery

    Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

    If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support by clicking here or by using the"contact us" link at the bottom of the page.

1975 skeeter Hawk

nathan

Well-known member
I figure that I would post on what I have been doing on my skeeter since I got it. after removing the three inches of leaves, dirt and vegitation.

I then worked on removing all the wiring and frozen steering. also removed more dirt.

IMAG0193.png

IMAG0192.png

IMAG0191.png

IMAG0190.png

IMAG0194.png
 
last night I started working on taking off the top cap. I got it off today. I figured the transom was wet and I was right. so now I get to use some of the tips I have learned here to redo my transom!!

IMAG0197.png

IMAG0199.png

IMAG0201.png

IMAG0202.png

IMAG0200.png

and more leaves.

IMAG0203.png
 
Try removing your transom in one piece to use for a pattern. You can use contractors paper from Lowes to trace the transom in case it comes out in pieces. You can find the paper in the paint section where the drop cloths are at. You can use a 4 1/2" grinder with a cutoff blade to cut around the transom then use some wooden wedges to "pop" the transom loose from the skin.
Contractors paper: http://www.lowes.com/pd_126347-968-35135/25FF_4294729404__?productId=1008367&Ns=p_product_avg_rating|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_avg_rating%7C1&facetInfo=
 
Last edited:
thank you Robbie!! I plan to try and and get it out in one piece but it maybe a hard thing and it is very wet. I have also thought about going with seacast but i think it is a bit more expensive compared to plywood.
 
thank you Robbie!! I plan to try and and get it out in one piece but it maybe a hard thing and it is very wet. I have also thought about going with seacast but i think it is a bit more expensive compared to plywood.

You want the wood to be dry as possible. When I replaced the transom on the Enforcer it was wet and coming out in pieces. I let the transom dry for a week and it came right out. I don't know much about seacast but you can't go wrong with exterior grade plywood or douglas fir. How thick is your transom, 1"?
Btw here's another tidbit for you: Very little difference in top grade exterior plywood and marine grade plywood. Both use Phenolic waterproof glues. The only real difference is marine grade is supposed to have no voids in it.
 
Last edited:
the transom is about 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 inches thick. I am going to let it dry for a while before I try to remove it. I have plenty of other things to do on this and my deckboat.
 
I put seacast in my trimate almost 10 years ago and still no problems . I am so happy with it I chose to put it in the Vmate when I did it and it turned out great . But it is expensive and I used 7 gallons in the Vmate but it was worth it .....
 
I was able to get some work done today. I removed the inner skin trying to save the transom to use as a templete. but this thing is wet from top to bottom and the part that touches the outside is almost mush. so saving it may not be an option anymore but I am going to still try.

100_4321.png

100_4320.png
 
Don't worry if you can't save the transom. Just use the contractors paper as a template. The paper is heavy duty so it's easy to tape up on the inside and cut.
 
Back
Top