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2000 ZT330 Restoration Build Thread

Finally got home and opened some packages. Going tomorrow to see the boat.

The Teague billet trim pump reservoir and drive lube reservoirs are very nice pieces!

Will have more pics tomorrow.
 

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I had to go out of town before going over to the shop but he sent me some pics of gel coat. The yellow in the flag is getting replaced with white so he sent a preview of the one check white.

Whipples havent delivered yet but should be soon. Heads are getting ported; Dart race series heads.

Interior is getting really close. Gonna save some pics of that for when it's totally done.
 

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Had a pretty cool delivery today.
 

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Some more updates, progress has seemed slow because of holidays.

Heads are back from cnc shop and now we gotta order the Ti valves.
Blocks are at machine shop.
Checked fuel tank and put new sending unit and putting new fuel lines. Cleaned and drained it.

Trim tabs havent delivered yet. Maybe today.
 
Some more updates, progress has seemed slow because of holidays.

Heads are back from cnc shop and now we gotta order the Ti valves.
Blocks are at machine shop.
Checked fuel tank and put new sending unit and putting new fuel lines. Cleaned and drained it.

Trim tabs havent delivered yet. Maybe today.

Most don't recommend Titanium valves or retainers in Marine/Endurance applications FYI. Much more brittle of a material and tends to have develop fractures faster. Titanium doesn't match the longevity Inconel or Manley Supper Alloy exhaust valves or a good hardened stainless steel intake valve. Tool steel retainers are preferred. Titanium is used in mostly in drag race or short track applications where engines are frequently rebuilt and are not held WFO for miles at a time.
 
Most don't recommend Titanium valves or retainers in Marine/Endurance applications FYI. Much more brittle of a material and tends to have develop fractures faster. Titanium doesn't match the longevity Inconel or Manley Supper Alloy exhaust valves or a good hardened stainless steel intake valve. Tool steel retainers are preferred. Titanium is used in mostly in drag race or short track applications where engines are frequently rebuilt and are not held WFO for miles at a time.

That is exactly the kind of advice/info I need! I will get inconel. Cheaper too by a ton lol. Thanks man.
 

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Rear hatch and back seat area upholstery is done. Rear hatch fiberglass is being redone and I'm making a gusset that will also act as a lift point for hatch cylinder.

Made a few deviations from the factory design. Added the headrests, changed flag up slightly.
 

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That is exactly the kind of advice/info I need! I will get inconel. Cheaper too by a ton lol. Thanks man.

Isky Tool Room line of springs is also the go-to for guys who want serious longevity. You are building a good set of motors and using quality parts, I'd put those in too. They are designed to loose no or very minuscule seat/open pressures over their rated service life compared to other brands. They are true endurance spring.
 
I see in the first post someone has been grinding away at the bottom but no mention of the problem.
Blisters I assume??

And as for your statement and costing more than it's worth, I do the same thing. I'd rather spend cash on something older than pay the $100k plus on something new.
 
I see in the first post someone has been grinding away at the bottom but no mention of the problem.
Blisters I assume??

And as for your statement and costing more than it's worth, I do the same thing. I'd rather spend cash on something older than pay the $100k plus on something new.

So the project started off immediately with a problem. I bought the boat without going to see it in person, knowing very well it was in "rough" shape. It had been cleaned, but it was a boat that had been not taken care of. The guy had a local boat mechanic summerize it and make sure that it ran etc and when he loaded it on the trailer the bunks were not adjusted correctly and it scraped the trailer in the middle. Really deep actually. Had to have that repaired before we even began doing anything.
 
I see in the first post someone has been grinding away at the bottom but no mention of the problem.
Blisters I assume??

And as for your statement and costing more than it's worth, I do the same thing. I'd rather spend cash on something older than pay the $100k plus on something new.

This boat had many surveys done, atleast 3 and every survey said the stringers were rotten and boat was a total loss. So far there has not been ANY rot other than the bottoms of the bolsters and an area on the hatch where the lift cylinder mounted to it.
 
I'm in the process of rebuilding a 1990 251.
As you did I also bought sight unseen. Exterior wise looked decent.
Upholstery needed to be done. I got video of it running. It's a 454 Mag, rebuilt with upgrades.
Had a 251 before and really like the boat, and the price was right.
Well, it's been two years. Stringers were rotten and wet all the way forward.
Transom surprisingly is solid and dry.
So at this point, stringers and floors are all new. New fuel tank as the old was pitted real bad. Rebuilt engine again as I found 2 dead cylinders. Valves where a mess. Looked to have been overheated.
But getting there. Upholstery is next. Maybe see water this summer.
I will have way more into it than it will ever be worth. But it's what I want.
 
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